Degreeing the cam...
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How many of you degree the cam to make sure if it was grinded correctly ?
So, supposely there is an even split cam with LSA 112 +4 The cam is installed dot-to-dot so technicaly it's still 112 +4 Now, to be 100% SURE that it still is what it is, is to degree the cam. So is this a process to verify the cam grind, or my install accuracy, or both ?
In you installs, how many of you had actualy done it, and have you encountered times where the cam was NOT grinded correctly ? (which led to degreeing the cam)
Can I safely assume that top-notch cam grinders (Futral, Thunder Racing, TSP..etc) make accurate grinds, such that when they are installed dot-to-dot, they are still gonna do what the cam card says ?
Thanks
So, supposely there is an even split cam with LSA 112 +4 The cam is installed dot-to-dot so technicaly it's still 112 +4 Now, to be 100% SURE that it still is what it is, is to degree the cam. So is this a process to verify the cam grind, or my install accuracy, or both ?
In you installs, how many of you had actualy done it, and have you encountered times where the cam was NOT grinded correctly ? (which led to degreeing the cam)
Can I safely assume that top-notch cam grinders (Futral, Thunder Racing, TSP..etc) make accurate grinds, such that when they are installed dot-to-dot, they are still gonna do what the cam card says ?
Thanks
Last edited by AdamSS; 12-03-2004 at 09:50 PM.
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One other thing is, even if your cam has been ground dead on, dot to dot doesn't guarantee it will be dead on. For instance, when I put my cam in a little while ago I found that I could change the ICL by loosening the sprocket bolts and twisting the cam geareither way and it gave me about 1 degree each way. Also there is a slight amount of play in the chain, bearings, lifters, etc. I read a post that someone had a cam that was ground with a 108* ICL and when he installed it dot to dot and degreed it, he got 105*. He had a double roller adjustable so he retarded it 4 degrees and got 109*. As stated above, it can't hurt.
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I degreed my cam in my car. It was suppost to be at 113. I thought my horse power was low. My best track time was 13.08 at 112.58mph. I checked the cam and it was at 109. I degreed it in to 114. My horse power has gone up. My best time at the track now was 12.9 at 113.79mph. I have since added a LSX Fast Intake and Throttle body and LSX Fuel Rails. I am now runing 12.54 at 115.41mph on street tires. The 5 degrees of advance in the cam made a big difference in horse power. So I think you should always degree your cam in. My example proves it. I haven't dynoed new modes yet. But I am sure it will be up big time. I hope this helps you.
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Originally Posted by P Mack
Ok, so where did everyone borrow their degree wheel from?
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When I degreed my cam, it was a degree off retarded (this was with a new stock chain). I loosened the top cam sproket and turn it and re-tightened it, and re-degreed the cam and it was perfect after that.
If anything is worth doing, it's worth doing right!![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Cheers.
If anything is worth doing, it's worth doing right!
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Cheers.
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Originally Posted by P Mack
Ok, so where did everyone borrow their degree wheel from?
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Originally Posted by grinder11
Remember, advancing the cam helps on low end without killing top end power.
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Originally Posted by nuzee
I don't think that is a true statement. Cam advancing & retarding compromises top end & low end repectively. I've advanced cams before and definately noticed a lower trap speed.