Degreeing the cam...

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Dec 3, 2004 | 09:43 PM

AdamSS

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From: Chicago Suburbs

Degreeing the cam...

How many of you degree the cam to make sure if it was grinded correctly ?

So, supposely there is an even split cam with LSA 112 +4 The cam is installed dot-to-dot so technicaly it's still 112 +4 Now, to be 100% SURE that it still is what it is, is to degree the cam. So is this a process to verify the cam grind, or my install accuracy, or both ?

In you installs, how many of you had actualy done it, and have you encountered times where the cam was NOT grinded correctly ? (which led to degreeing the cam)

Can I safely assume that top-notch cam grinders (Futral, Thunder Racing, TSP..etc) make accurate grinds, such that when they are installed dot-to-dot, they are still gonna do what the cam card says ?

Thanks

Last edited by AdamSS; Dec 3, 2004 at 09:50 PM.

Dec 3, 2004 | 09:46 PM

jrp

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you cant safely assume anything. i degreed my cam last week

Dec 3, 2004 | 10:49 PM

tomaSS

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That's a really good question, but for $400 I hope I can safely assume! I guess I need to read up on degreeing a cam!

Dec 3, 2004 | 11:04 PM

68birdls1

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yea if you do a search, you will find so much crap about it! i remember one from about 3 months or so back that was very informational

Dec 3, 2004 | 11:31 PM

ArKay99

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One other thing is, even if your cam has been ground dead on, dot to dot doesn't guarantee it will be dead on. For instance, when I put my cam in a little while ago I found that I could change the ICL by loosening the sprocket bolts and twisting the cam geareither way and it gave me about 1 degree each way. Also there is a slight amount of play in the chain, bearings, lifters, etc. I read a post that someone had a cam that was ground with a 108* ICL and when he installed it dot to dot and degreed it, he got 105*. He had a double roller adjustable so he retarded it 4 degrees and got 109*. As stated above, it can't hurt.

Dec 4, 2004 | 12:07 AM

as35thss

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From: Florida

I degreed my cam in my car. It was suppost to be at 113. I thought my horse power was low. My best track time was 13.08 at 112.58mph. I checked the cam and it was at 109. I degreed it in to 114. My horse power has gone up. My best time at the track now was 12.9 at 113.79mph. I have since added a LSX Fast Intake and Throttle body and LSX Fuel Rails. I am now runing 12.54 at 115.41mph on street tires. The 5 degrees of advance in the cam made a big difference in horse power. So I think you should always degree your cam in. My example proves it. I haven't dynoed new modes yet. But I am sure it will be up big time. I hope this helps you.

Dec 4, 2004 | 12:10 AM

P Mack

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Ok, so where did everyone borrow their degree wheel from?

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Dec 4, 2004 | 07:41 AM

grinder11

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Quote:

Originally Posted by P Mack

Ok, so where did everyone borrow their degree wheel from?

Very cheap to buy. Try Autozone if you got one in your area. They take a deposit on any special tool and you keep it as long as you want/need it. Take it back with your receipt and they give you back your cash. JRP is correct. Just the labor alone that is required to do this job makes it a never assume anything proposition. I liked the previous post where a couple tenths in E.T. was picked up and 1 or 2 mph. That is another reason to degree. Even if the cam and chain and sprockets, etc. are spot on, you can "adjust' the timing around with offset dowels, different key positions, etc., depending on what kind of cam drive you have. An old trick that can still work today is to install stright up and take a compression check. Then try altering the valve events by a degree or so at a time (one change at a time, and keep it small, is the rule) until you have the highest reading on your compression gauge. Remember, advancing the cam helps on low end without killing top end power. And retarding the timing helps on top end but hurts lower end torque. I have seen guys who had their cars dialed in pretty good, but were having traction issues retard the cam some and they would hook up better due to the slight loss of low end power.

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Dec 4, 2004 | 07:44 AM

m1key99WS6

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When I degreed my cam, it was a degree off retarded (this was with a new stock chain). I loosened the top cam sproket and turn it and re-tightened it, and re-degreed the cam and it was perfect after that.

If anything is worth doing, it's worth doing right!

Cheers.

Dec 4, 2004 | 08:55 AM

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Byter

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Quote:

Originally Posted by P Mack

Ok, so where did everyone borrow their degree wheel from?

CompCams has a kit that contains a dial indicator, degree wheel, and other tools for about $150.00. They also have PDF directions on how to degree a cam.

Dec 4, 2004 | 11:43 AM

#11

AdamSS

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Thank you all for the responses... I will defintely degree my cam to make sure that it's done right...

Dec 4, 2004 | 12:44 PM

#12

nuzee

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Quote:

Originally Posted by grinder11

Remember, advancing the cam helps on low end without killing top end power.

I don't think that is a true statement. Cam advancing & retarding compromises top end & low end repectively. I've advanced cams before and definately noticed a lower trap speed.

Dec 4, 2004 | 01:47 PM

#13

Beast96Z

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Quote:

Originally Posted by nuzee

I don't think that is a true statement. Cam advancing & retarding compromises top end & low end repectively. I've advanced cams before and definately noticed a lower trap speed.

You are correct. Advancing the cam will bring power on a few hundred rpm's earlier and fall off that many hundred rpm's earlier. I degree'd my cam last week. It was a 111LSA with a 109 ICL. It degreed at 111 LSA 108 ICL. We figured due to chain stretch and heat, the cam would end up right at 109 where it is supposed to be. No matter who the company, you want to check the cam. Speacilty companies like thunder and futral and so forth get there cams ground by other companies just like anyone else. I highly doubt they put every one of there cams on a cam doctor, so it is always best to check it out.

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