All bore, or just stroke??
All bore, or just stroke?? Now my car does its work really good. Have no trobles with it. But the power is not what i like now.
I have save money to go on serious mods, and soon as i get vacations ( next months) i will be traveling to USA to achieve a new goal.
Well the point is that i have been visiting different vendors, such as MTI, and i am really in love with the 387 ci all bore package, but the 383 ci is not out of the interest. My concern about the 387 ci all bore, is the durability of the block, considering that you are gonna be in the neighborhood of the 4.125" which i think is really close to the limits of the LS1. The car is used as a weekend car, i will use it most of the times for highway roads, autocross, in few words as "sportscar" not a drag car (goes to the drag racing only 6 or 7 times a year) and almost 95% of the time spent is on traveling.
What can i expect from the 387 ci? Am i gonna have the same durability (obviously take a lot of care of it, which means changing oil every 3500 miles, spark plugs, anyway, all the needed liquids) as the "stock" engine (only cam and better exhaust is equiped now)?
I am not a rich guy by any means, so that is why i am getting all the help and info i can have, this before doing the mod (i do not wanna see my block totally blown, or a really short period of durability). I love atmospheric cars, so power adders such as blowers or turbos are not for me. The 383 is a good option and is stroker(no mayor problems), but when i saw the torque curve from the 387, i was like
(i want that block 
).
So, any help or suggestions are gonna be really appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
I have save money to go on serious mods, and soon as i get vacations ( next months) i will be traveling to USA to achieve a new goal.
Well the point is that i have been visiting different vendors, such as MTI, and i am really in love with the 387 ci all bore package, but the 383 ci is not out of the interest. My concern about the 387 ci all bore, is the durability of the block, considering that you are gonna be in the neighborhood of the 4.125" which i think is really close to the limits of the LS1. The car is used as a weekend car, i will use it most of the times for highway roads, autocross, in few words as "sportscar" not a drag car (goes to the drag racing only 6 or 7 times a year) and almost 95% of the time spent is on traveling.
What can i expect from the 387 ci? Am i gonna have the same durability (obviously take a lot of care of it, which means changing oil every 3500 miles, spark plugs, anyway, all the needed liquids) as the "stock" engine (only cam and better exhaust is equiped now)?
I am not a rich guy by any means, so that is why i am getting all the help and info i can have, this before doing the mod (i do not wanna see my block totally blown, or a really short period of durability). I love atmospheric cars, so power adders such as blowers or turbos are not for me. The 383 is a good option and is stroker(no mayor problems), but when i saw the torque curve from the 387, i was like
(i want that block ).So, any help or suggestions are gonna be really appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
I have a 395 all stroke, I am a little undecided on how much I like it. At first I loved it but after 4 qts. of oil in 1000 miles and the fact that is started out with 484 hp and 466 tq and then fell to 460 hp and 435 tq for no aparent reason. After tuning and the addition of a 90mm Fast intake power is up to 486 and 448. I dont think to much of this stroker after many mods I would have been better to just go with one of the heads and cam packages that are putting out more power than my stroker for 5k less.
I've got an HPE built 383. I only have 5 miles on the motor so far, but those were the most bad *** 5 miles I've ever driven in my own car.
Strokers tend to give you a bit more torque where as a bore motor will give you a bit more horse power. Really just depends on what your final goals are. I think the 383 stroker balances a nice H/C setup well.
Strokers tend to give you a bit more torque where as a bore motor will give you a bit more horse power. Really just depends on what your final goals are. I think the 383 stroker balances a nice H/C setup well.
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
I've got an HPE built 383. I only have 5 miles on the motor so far, but those were the most bad *** 5 miles I've ever driven in my own car.
Strokers tend to give you a bit more torque where as a bore motor will give you a bit more horse power. Really just depends on what your final goals are. I think the 383 stroker balances a nice H/C setup well.
Strokers tend to give you a bit more torque where as a bore motor will give you a bit more horse power. Really just depends on what your final goals are. I think the 383 stroker balances a nice H/C setup well.
The good thing about the stroker 383ci, is that may be very well balance, between durability and simplicity. Maybe
Guys thanks a lot for the replay.
Please, more knowledge is needed!!!!!!!
Originally Posted by David Gordon
I have a 395 all stroke, I am a little undecided on how much I like it. At first I loved it but after 4 qts. of oil in 1000 miles and the fact that is started out with 484 hp and 466 tq and then fell to 460 hp and 435 tq for no aparent reason. After tuning and the addition of a 90mm Fast intake power is up to 486 and 448. I dont think to much of this stroker after many mods I would have been better to just go with one of the heads and cam packages that are putting out more power than my stroker for 5k less.
You could have hit similar PEAK HP/TQ #s as a H/C 346 but that H/C 346 couldn't hold a stick to the power under the curve you would make with a 395 CID.
I'd have a leakdown test done, I'd be willing to bet the rings are shot.
I was under the impression that strokers were most of the times giving you torque on the upper range, and the overbore packages were those that give you torque all over the curve.
This is a ver simplified synopsis:
Strokers make lots of TQ, especially in the mid to low range of the RPMs.
All bores make more HP in the higher RPM range.
The good thing about the stroker 383ci, is that may be very well balance, between durability and simplicity. Maybe
Why, if both built competently, would the 383ci be more balanced?
Please, more knowledge is needed!!!!!!!
Search "bore vs stroke" and you'll get lots of info.
This is a ver simplified synopsis:
Strokers make lots of TQ, especially in the mid to low range of the RPMs.
All bores make more HP in the higher RPM range.
The good thing about the stroker 383ci, is that may be very well balance, between durability and simplicity. Maybe
Why, if both built competently, would the 383ci be more balanced?
Please, more knowledge is needed!!!!!!!
Search "bore vs stroke" and you'll get lots of info.
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks a lot for the answers, but, hehe! can i have an asnwer for my main question which is "am i gonna see any bad points for durability, talking about the 387 all bore?" 
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
I was under the impression that strokers were most of the times giving you torque on the upper range, and the overbore packages were those that give you torque all over the curve.
This is a ver simplified synopsis:
Strokers make lots of TQ, especially in the mid to low range of the RPMs.
All bores make more HP in the higher RPM range.
The good thing about the stroker 383ci, is that may be very well balance, between durability and simplicity. Maybe
Why, if both built competently, would the 383ci be more balanced?
Please, more knowledge is needed!!!!!!!
Search "bore vs stroke" and you'll get lots of info.
This is a ver simplified synopsis:
Strokers make lots of TQ, especially in the mid to low range of the RPMs.
All bores make more HP in the higher RPM range.
The good thing about the stroker 383ci, is that may be very well balance, between durability and simplicity. Maybe
Why, if both built competently, would the 383ci be more balanced?
Please, more knowledge is needed!!!!!!!
Search "bore vs stroke" and you'll get lots of info.
Originally Posted by Rudolph
Thanks, i already did, but on all those threads, they never got to achieve a point, on "if all big bore engines are kind of dangerous talking about durability".
- C5R block
- 6.0L iron block
- Darton MID block that was done correctly
Then you'll have zero issues with durability in regards to the block.
Durability outside of the block will have nothing to do with the size. It'll be do to all the other stuff like valvesprings, cam selection, etc.
Originally Posted by David Gordon
I hope my rings are not shot it only has about 1 or 2 thousand miles on it. They did put in new valve seals.
- improper hone
- improper ring install (gaps, etc)
- very rich condition
- too great of piston-rod-length ratio combined with any and/or all of the above
4 qts in 1000 miles is not going to be cured by valve seals. You have mechanical problems with either or including all of the following:
- cylinder hone
- rings
- fuel
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
If you go with either:
- C5R block
- 6.0L iron block
- Darton MID block that was done correctly
Then you'll have zero issues with durability in regards to the block.
Durability outside of the block will have nothing to do with the size. It'll be do to all the other stuff like valvesprings, cam selection, etc.
- C5R block
- 6.0L iron block
- Darton MID block that was done correctly
Then you'll have zero issues with durability in regards to the block.
Durability outside of the block will have nothing to do with the size. It'll be do to all the other stuff like valvesprings, cam selection, etc.
Anyway, thanks a lot, and if you could suggest any package that goes for 10k installed, i would greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Rudolph; Dec 11, 2004 at 06:00 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Rudolph...here's a straight answer...the 387 bore motor will be just fine as far as durablility...yes the walls are thinner but if you are not spraying it, you should never see a prob...the added cylinder pressure from an adder will find the weakest spot, maybe not for a while if youre a good tuner tho...my 393 had some cracking probs between cylinders on a stock block & 500 shot NX shark system but on a Dart block did not...the big bore motor will rap rpms real fast...it will be a HP motor but you wont be disappointed with the torque either..good luck...bryan
I LOVE MY 388 ALL BORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It spins up like nothing else I have ever been in. It depends on where you want the power (torque). Most people like gobs of tire shredding torque but I personally like my power in the mid (>3500RPM) and high (<7500) RPM range. It’s just so much fun on the highway. 
now about the block:
The stock block WILL NOT take anymore than 0.010" over (3.908) bore so any "big bore" motor is a re-sleeve (or iron block which will take a 4.030") and the ONLY way I would ever tell someone to go is with the wet sleeve (Darton) setup which is "recommended" at a max bore of 4.155" (at 4.125" bore you have over 0.025" wall thickness at the THINNEST area). There are people doing 1000+HP out of these resleeved blocks and I plan to put a 250shot (N2O) on it some time down to road myself (probubly 750-800 crank HP range).
now about the block:
The stock block WILL NOT take anymore than 0.010" over (3.908) bore so any "big bore" motor is a re-sleeve (or iron block which will take a 4.030") and the ONLY way I would ever tell someone to go is with the wet sleeve (Darton) setup which is "recommended" at a max bore of 4.155" (at 4.125" bore you have over 0.025" wall thickness at the THINNEST area). There are people doing 1000+HP out of these resleeved blocks and I plan to put a 250shot (N2O) on it some time down to road myself (probubly 750-800 crank HP range).
Originally Posted by Rudolph
The good thing about the stroker 383ci, is that may be very well balance, between durability and simplicity. Maybe
sorry but NO! even when I made my 388 (I have motor plates/solid mounted motor) idle at 600RPM (with a 244/249 solid roller cam) and water drops on the hood don't even vibrate let alone roll off the car.......
if anything the longer stroke engine will have a worse balance due to all the extra weight flying around (longer rods/more iron in the crank/etc.....) and often require more heavy metal to balance them......
Originally Posted by Bryan TTM
Rudolph...here's a straight answer...the 387 bore motor will be just fine as far as durablility...yes the walls are thinner but if you are not spraying it, you should never see a prob...the added cylinder pressure from an adder will find the weakest spot, maybe not for a while if youre a good tuner tho...my 393 had some cracking probs between cylinders on a stock block & 500 shot NX shark system but on a Dart block did not...the big bore motor will rap rpms real fast...it will be a HP motor but you wont be disappointed with the torque either..good luck...bryan
That is why i liked the all bore option, due to the torque and hp curve, which look really proggresive, and as i said i am more on the autocross side than in the drag side, highways, mountain roads, long distances (1000 mi +). I want the engine to be as reliable as possible (as the stock engines that last more than 200k mi, with all the due care).I will also get a Moser 3.73 (my car is M6), and rest of the cash, if there is a "rest", sway bars.
Anyway, thanks a lot!
Originally Posted by 2001CamaroGuy
I LOVE MY 388 ALL BORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It spins up like nothing else I have ever been in. It depends on where you want the power (torque). Most people like gobs of tire shredding torque but I personally like my power in the mid (>3500RPM) and high (<7500) RPM range. It’s just so much fun on the highway.
now about the block:
The stock block WILL NOT take anymore than 0.010" over (3.908) bore so any "big bore" motor is a re-sleeve (or iron block which will take a 4.030") and the ONLY way I would ever tell someone to go is with the wet sleeve (Darton) setup which is "recommended" at a max bore of 4.155" (at 4.125" bore you have over 0.025" wall thickness at the THINNEST area). There are people doing 1000+HP out of these resleeved blocks and I plan to put a 250shot (N2O) on it some time down to road myself (probubly 750-800 crank HP range).
now about the block:
The stock block WILL NOT take anymore than 0.010" over (3.908) bore so any "big bore" motor is a re-sleeve (or iron block which will take a 4.030") and the ONLY way I would ever tell someone to go is with the wet sleeve (Darton) setup which is "recommended" at a max bore of 4.155" (at 4.125" bore you have over 0.025" wall thickness at the THINNEST area). There are people doing 1000+HP out of these resleeved blocks and I plan to put a 250shot (N2O) on it some time down to road myself (probubly 750-800 crank HP range).
Anyway, thanks a lot!!
Originally Posted by Bryan TTM
Rudolph...here's a straight answer...the 387 bore motor will be just fine as far as durablility...yes the walls are thinner but if you are not spraying it, you should never see a prob...the added cylinder pressure from an adder will find the weakest spot, maybe not for a while if youre a good tuner tho...my 393 had some cracking probs between cylinders on a stock block & 500 shot NX shark system but on a Dart block did not...the big bore motor will rap rpms real fast...it will be a HP motor but you wont be disappointed with the torque either..good luck...bryan