Installing ARP Rod Bolts
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From: San Antonio, TX
Installing ARP Rod Bolts How difficult is this? What is involved? I don't have access to a lift at this time. I will also be installing double roller timing chain and ported fuel pump.
This is all in preparation for D1SC w/10psi pulley, heads, cam, headers/exhaust, etc.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
This is all in preparation for D1SC w/10psi pulley, heads, cam, headers/exhaust, etc.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Orlando, FL
Re: Installing ARP Rod Bolts Doing this with the motor in the car is going to be almost impossible. The torquing sequence would be very difficult to do accurately with the subframe in the way. To ensure it's done correctly I'd get the motor on the engine stand. 10 lbs. in addition to the other items is going to be alot on a stock bottom end. You won't have much room for error especially detonation.
If you are pulling the heads anyways I'd get it down to the short block and pull it out. It's really not a big job.
Tim
If you are pulling the heads anyways I'd get it down to the short block and pull it out. It's really not a big job.
Tim
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Re: Installing ARP Rod Bolts I will also be putting a clutch/pressure plate/flywheel, Moser 12 bolt, Denny's driveshaft so would it be easier to lower the whole nine yards or pull it from the top. What is the best way to get all this done at once? If the best way is to lower K-member w/engine and transmission, how high do I need to get it in the air to be able to roll it out on a cart?
Thanks
Thanks
Launching!
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From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Re: Installing ARP Rod Bolts This is an interesting question. A few years back when we were working on the SBC 350 engines, whenever we changed rod bolts we ALWAYS had the rods reconditioned to be sure of a perfect fit with the bearings. But I have heard of people changing bolts on the LS1 without doing this. Maybe the different rod composition alows for this. Anyone else thought of this disparity?
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Re: Installing ARP Rod Bolts So what is the best way to get the engine/transmission out. If by lowering, how high do you have to get the car? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
If from the top, should you pull the heads first? Then, when you replace it, and you have installed head studs, do you install the heads, valve covers, etc. before you put the engine back? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
If from the top, should you pull the heads first? Then, when you replace it, and you have installed head studs, do you install the heads, valve covers, etc. before you put the engine back? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Re: Installing ARP Rod Bolts I'm getting a tubular K-member and was thinking about changing the rod bolts. If you had the stock k-member out, could you change the rod bolts without pulling the motor?
Bruce
Bruce
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Re: Installing ARP Rod Bolts </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Vettepartz:
<strong> This is an interesting question. A few years back when we were working on the SBC 350 engines, whenever we changed rod bolts we ALWAYS had the rods reconditioned to be sure of a perfect fit with the bearings. But I have heard of people changing bolts on the LS1 without doing this. Maybe the different rod composition alows for this. Anyone else thought of this disparity? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The big ends of the stock LS1 rods are fracture cracked so that no matter what bolt you use it always lines up perfectly. If you threw all 8 rods and rod caps in a bucket all mixed up, there's a really good chance you can pair them to the correct rod by the matching crack. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
<strong> This is an interesting question. A few years back when we were working on the SBC 350 engines, whenever we changed rod bolts we ALWAYS had the rods reconditioned to be sure of a perfect fit with the bearings. But I have heard of people changing bolts on the LS1 without doing this. Maybe the different rod composition alows for this. Anyone else thought of this disparity? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The big ends of the stock LS1 rods are fracture cracked so that no matter what bolt you use it always lines up perfectly. If you threw all 8 rods and rod caps in a bucket all mixed up, there's a really good chance you can pair them to the correct rod by the matching crack. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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Re: Installing ARP Rod Bolts </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 1bad2k2ta:
<strong> So what is the best way to get the engine/transmission out. If by lowering, how high do you have to get the car? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
If from the top, should you pull the heads first? Then, when you replace it, and you have installed head studs, do you install the heads, valve covers, etc. before you put the engine back? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Do a search. Look at raughammer's and other's sites. Lots of info and mixed opinions on this.
<strong> So what is the best way to get the engine/transmission out. If by lowering, how high do you have to get the car? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
If from the top, should you pull the heads first? Then, when you replace it, and you have installed head studs, do you install the heads, valve covers, etc. before you put the engine back? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Do a search. Look at raughammer's and other's sites. Lots of info and mixed opinions on this.
