I used a 15/16" deep well 6 pt that I picked up today, after heating the bolt head a little with a torch, and it came off like butta. Now attempting to get the last 10% of the pulley off since I don't have a threaded rod/nut or a longer crank bolt.

Thanks for the help/info (and i'll probably need more before i'm finished )

 

Well the other day at RevExtreme( a sponser shop) I saw them using a breaker bar on the crank bolt, to remove it, even though they have an impact wrench there.

 

Grats on getting it out, I bet the original problem is that you were using a 12 point instead of a 6 point. I always will use the impact to take stuff off but never to put back on.

 

We got the pulley off as far as it would go with the stock bolt and finished it off with a 5/8" brass bolt from Meanards that was maybe 1.25" longer than the stock bolt. My 5/16" dowel rods with a sanded edge slid RIGHT in with zero resistance. The new cam went straight in as well, less than half the time it took to take the old one out.

Stupid question: If somethign went waaaay wrong and I somewhow dropped a lifter past the dowel rods would I hear it fall into the pan? I have no reason to believe I dropped on, but, well, I get paranoid of things that I can't see.

I plan to do the oil pump and timing chain tomorrow-saturday and then start on the valvespring part tuesday when I get back from Iowa. Hope to have it running for New Years. Thanks again for the help guys.

 

I'm not sure how I would have got my pulley back on if I didn't have a longer bolt. Someone came up with the idea on here to put your pulley in the oven for 5-10min at 250deg and then it will slip right in. Ok. So lets logically think about this... **** expands when you heat it up and that's exactly why it made my pulley HARDER to get on after I did that. There's many people that will swear by this method, but I'm telling you it didn't work for me at all. So maybe I would have put it in the fridgerator overnight it would contract and open up enough to slip it right on? I've never heard of this, but that seems to be more logical to me.

Anyway, I don't have the part # but I bought my bolt from napa. Do a search and you'll find it eventually. But make sure to get some fat washers with the bolt so you'll be able to snag the lip of the pulley! But whatever you do, don't hammer the pulley to get it back on!!

 

I'm sure you already know this, but take your time when doing the pickup tube and make sure not to crush the new ORING that I'm sure you have gotten for your pump (If you don't have one, get one), and watch your oil press like a hawk on startup, make sure its good. If its a lot lower than normal you f'ed the oring up.

 

I bought a new, blue pickup tube O-ring from my local chevy dealer for $4. What a ripoff!! Not only that the guy was a complete ***. I hadn't touched the car yet and have zero experience so I accidentally said, at first, oil pump o-ring and not PICKUP TUBE o-ring. He punches up an engine diagram on his computer and asks me where the oil pump O-ring is. I looked for the pickup tube and realized I kinda new what I wanted and he knew what it was, went to get it......There were more guys in the back and I heard one of them say "Oil pump O-ring!!! That's a good one ahahaha". Dealers suck. I've had this one mess up so many things they will NEVER EVER TOUCH my car again. And now this. Tisk tisk.

 

I just got finished doing my timing chain, oil pump, and timing cover. Here's some tips that I came up with when doing my install:

With the timing chain make 100000% sure that the dots line up! I thought mine was perfect, but it wasn't after I did some investigating. At the top of my block in front of the valley cover, I measured that to be exactly 6in. So with a marker I put a line at 3in to get the center of the engine. I got long ruler (or just grab something straight and thin) and then lined that up with the dot on the sprocket at TDC. You can see if the dot on the cam gear lines up. The only way I was satisified was when I supplemented the method above with the good ol' eyeball looking at it from straight on.

With the oil pump, I put a really REALLY thin layer of RTV smeared over the pickup tube o-ring to hold it on the tube and to seal it up a little bit more once things get seated in there. The o-ring just fits on the snout of the pickup tube and do not roll it onto the outer lip. To get the oil pump on, I took my old crank sprocket (I had a new sprocket since I went with a double roller) and inserted it on the front of the oil pump. I began to seat the oil pump onto the new sprocket and all I had to do was "dial in" the gears and the oil pump went on the new sprocket with ease. That allowed me to concentrate on getting the pickup tube in there.

Last just follow the directions on ls1howto.com for the timing cover. I had to yank my old front seal out with a pair of pliers after exposing some of the metal ring with a screwdriver. Make sure to put some RTV in the corners on the block where the timing cover will sit since this is a common place for oil to come out. And make sure to have your pulley ready to go on the crank (maybe even do a test fit) since you'll have RTV on the timing cover and drying while you try to seat the pulley on there!

That's all I got for you... I'm not an expert; just a little ahead of you installing H/C myself! Take my advice FWIW

EDIT: Yes the o-ring is a rip! I bought 3 of them and ended up bringing one of them back. Can you believe that a water-pump gasket is the same price as the O-RING?!? The guys at my dealership are really cool. They joke around with me and I do the same. They'll never touch my car, though.

 

Does anyone know where I can get a longer crank bolt?

Thanks,
Bill