I'm god only knows how many hours into my cam swap, just now to the point of breaking the crank bolt loose.

First off, the 24mm socket does not seat onto the crank bolt as tightly as I think it should. There is just too much play. What can I do to keep it from rounding off? If I got my hands on an impact gun would that help? Has anybody else had this problem? I don't want to strip my crank bolt

I'd also like this car to run next week. *praying*

 

Hmmmm... My 24mm socket fit on my crank bolt like a glove. Not to sound like an ***, but maybe it just seems looser than it really is. Although I guess it is possible that it has a non-standard size bolt in there. Just torque on it real careful, so if you feel it slip you can stop before you round it off. If it slips, then it's time to go through some sockets and see what fits. It'll probably be okay, though. Just be careful.

 

Worst case scenario say you do round it off...find a slighty smaller socket and try tapping it on real good. The socket will be so tight on the bolt there is pratically no chance of rounding it off, and yeah a 1 inch impact gun would whoop some *** for you if you can get one. Then all you need is new crank bolt.

 

If it feels already rounded or that it may be try a 15/16 socket, that works for me every time.

We se some pretty awful stuff when we get cores sent in, and the 15/16 has bailed me out before.

 

Amen on the 15/16" socket, and be sure to use a 6-point socket rather than 12-pointer. More contact area w/ the bolt head, less likely to slip or cause damage.

 

It was really worrying me, I didn't put that much torque on it (only used 18" breaker bar, no cheater i have fit on the handle) and you could see the metal chips on the pulley a well as the corners rounding. The only other socket anywhere near that size I have ATM is a 22 mm and there is no way it'll fit.

I will try to get my neighbors impact gun as well as a 6 point socket (mine is 12) and a 15/16 as well. Going to Chicago today so I'll have to try again tonight or tomorrow. I have a new crank bolt coming with my stuff anyway. Thanks

 

Do not use an impact. Big nono

 

Do you mean for assembly? Why wouldn't you use it for disassembly?

 

Same reason than assembly,
1- you do not want that kind of harmonic beating on the crank
2-and the possibility of breaking the bolt greatly increases.

 

yea, if its starting to round by hand, the impact is just going to round it more, and quicker.


get a diffrent socket.. and it HAS to be a 6 point.. a 12point one will strip it easily...

good luck.

 

In my experience, bolts break more readily when applying constant pressure. I prefer the impact wrench for difficult bolts/nuts.
And how fragile do you think the crank is?
Impact wrench it is for me. You know, now that I think about it I'm about 80% sure that an experienced tech advocated installing the crank bolt using an impact wrench.
I'll check the archives.

 

normally, id use a impact too.. but if the socket is ill fitting, i wouldnt advice using it.


the crank bolt IS torque to yeild... so no, you wouldnt use a impact to install it... removing it however, is not a problem.

 

Ok, now some advice from a shadetree expert. As has already been advised do NOT use an impact. I have duct taped a long piece of pipe to a 1/2 inch breaker bar. That works as long as you have the correct 6 point socket. Now you have to keep the crank from turning. I've found the best way is to use a chain wrench around the crank pulley as you remove the crank bolt. As a general rule if a socket doesn't fit don't use it; especially if it is a 103mmX16mmX2mm crank bolt. That bolt will SLOWLY come out so don't expect it to just release itself. It ain't goin to happen. If you have to ask some of these questions your already in over your head and better get someone with some experience to look over your shoulder before you take a flying leap. For $115 a double row Rollmaster is well worth the expense. Once you get the bolt out(Use a 120mmX16mmX2mm to get the pulley back on) you need a three leg puller to get the crank pulley off. I always use a BIG allen head cap screw to give the puller bolt something to buck up against. Put the BIG allen head cap screw in where you just took the crank bolt out from and put a few large flat washer under the head of the allen head cap screw to keep it centered as you remove the pulley. That way the threads in the crank don't get damaged. Change the oil pump pickup tube "O" ring and if you can't get the oil pump pickup port tube that goes to the oil pump input port to fit into the oil pump input port you can remove the oil pump cover and take the gears out. This allows you to wriggle the oil pump body around enough to get the tube in. This is the step where the NEw "O" ring is so important. You might get lucky and find that the lifters are in a good mood and stay up in the retainers on their own, but I wasn't so lucky and had to use the JPR tool which was a life saver for me after I couldn't get the cam out more than about 3 lobes. The Rollmaster instructions are written in a little known language called "Austrailian" so don't expect to get much help there. Some 600 lift springs are due and don't forget the front cover seal. Do you know the FRONT COVER ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE? I didn't think so. What about the proper way to reinstall the oil pan? You might want to check on that too. These are just a few of the things you need to do CORRECTLY the first time because there ain't no forgiveness here bro. so do it right the first time and be done with it.

 

24mm is 15.12/16 of an inch so try a 15/16 socket or even a 23mm if it's that bad. Get an electric impact gun to get it off; most people will tell you it's fine to use an impact gun to remove the bolt, but NEVER use it to put it on. (And also don't use a hammer to get your pulley started on the crank snout.)

I just took my pulley bolt off last weekend and it wouldn't budge even with a big *** electric impact gun. I had to get my dad to bring his torch over and heat the head of the bolt to loosen the locktite. After that the bolt came free with the impact.

I used a longer bolt with some washers to seat the pulley back on the snout. When I had enough threads for the original bolt I tightened it down with a big *** 3ft torque wrench. Broke it loose then did the 37ft lbs and then torqued it to about 140deg past that point. I didn't have to use a breaker bar, just the torque wrench. (FYI I had the torque wrench maxed out to 260ft/lbs. when I got to 140deg.)

Look at http://www.ls1howto.com to get a good idea what to do. Be aware not to deviate from the directions because there is a reason for everything in there.

 

I could swear that when I was researching using an impact for removal that you said at one time that it was OK to use it... along with about 95% of the threads I looked at. Has something changed since then?

 

If you look at how an impact gun works...pneumatic piston motion...you can visualize how that's not doing your thrust bearing any favors whether you're loosening or tightening the crank bolt.

 

psst.

this isnt a hammer gun. it doesnt punch the crank forward and backward.

its trying to spin this bolt... effectively its like taking a long breaker bar, and slamming the handle around with a sledge hammer.

its trying to spin a bolt that is in the crank centerline.


the thrust bearing is what keeps the crank from going forward or backward in the block (in and out from the front cover point of view)
in otherwords, it will do jack squat to the thrust bearing. theres no motion on that entire plane.

 

i am a certified tech and i use a impact to remove and seat the pulley, if u haven't done it before or dont trust yourself dont do it. i saw someone go to replace the front cover seal and he took the old one out ,never put the new one in and then didnt line up the key-way and cross threaded the bolt in the crank, so the bolt broke off the pulley was jammed on and the car needed a new crank. ok he was a helper and he was new, but that is why some people shouldnt use impacts.

 

Okay, back from Chicago. So now my plan of action is to buy a 15/16" six point (deep well?) socket and use it with a breaker bar (and find a pipe with big enough ID to fit over it). Might also heat up the bolt head. Sound good? Will autozone have a 120mmX16mmx2mm bolt? If not where should I get one? I feel like I'm asking stupid questions but I am not sure so better safe than sorry. I just want to get this thing back up and running!

 

I also need a 120mmX16mmx2mm bolt. I am going to try and find one today.

Bill