Bluehawk27

I got the 5/16 inch rods and made the bends at 20 inches, but am having a hard time getting them into the hole, since I keep getting blocked by the A/C condensor. So are they the right length or can i go shorter? thanks

Black Z/28

18 inches will work. You can measure your new camshaft to be sure.

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

I used two 5/16 inch wooden dowels from wal-mart. Like less than a buck for both of them.
Cut them to one inch longer than the cam. Move your condensor down through the bottom of the car, you will have no problem getting them in...just spin the heck out of the cam and keep trying. This worked like a charm for me.
By the way...what kind of cam you installing? And be careful with the pick up tube bolt...its a mother.

Bluehawk27

ok cool, got them in, when you dropped the condensor, you didnt disconnect the two hoses on the passanger side did you? The oil pick up tube, was actually pretty easy for me, maybe installing it will be harder? I'm tossing in a F13 cam on a 112+4. thanks

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

No...no need to disconnect any lines from the AC...if you do this you will lose your ac. I just loosened up the bolt holding the canister, it gives you a little more flexibility.

Bluehawk27

ok, great, went out and did that, and the cam came right out. Calling it a night, tomorrow we'll finish her up. Thanks

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

I just did a cam swap with my car and used home made 5/16 dowl rods. It was very hard to get them in. The condenser must be held high so the rods can go straight in, plus some light bearing greese will help. I used a rubber mallet to tap them in once started, then some grunting and pulling/twisting to get them out.

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

Much easier to move condensor down. Not in your way. Also, the wooden rods I used slid in and out rather easily...probably because they give slightly compared to a metal rod.

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

Maybe so, but it is chancey in case a rod gets stuck. I wouldn't want to snap one off in the block, could be a bad thing. My thoughts.

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

Yeah I guess that could happen if you pried up and down on the rod. But they never got stuck and I never had a reason to force them, and if it did...anyone with some brains would not reef on a wooden dowel that is inside their LS1.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Wow, at the tail end of my FM13 112+4 swap too... Wish I would have asked about this. Had to do trial and error on the rods until I could clear the condensor and woulnd't you know it, I found out the hard way that dropping it was feasible when I couldn't get the damn stock cam out. Could have made saved me alot of bending and cutting the rods

BTW I had to step down to a 1/4 on the passenge side. 5/16 wouldn't fit.

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

You might have russian roulletted that side and not even realized it.
When we tested the 5/16 rod, if you pushed on a pushrod with moderate force it would cause the lifter to slide past the dowel.We tested it by moving the cam and the push rod would move up and down, and we could also see the marks on the dowel where it slid past, as well as feel the lifter go down when pushed upon....
I was almost scared, and was wondering what the heck everyone was talking about on the internet with these damn rods...but it all worked out. Just dont have a pushrod in and push down on it.
But...I am betting a lifter might drop right by a 1/4 inch rod.

fbody1

iTrader: (3)

I made my tools for about $2.50, once the condensor slid down they slid right in, no problem at all. I had one side ground down flat, handles bent on the end, awesome tool. Good luck.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I did the same with the 5/16 when I was first testing too. I could push up and down on the lifters as well. I made sure I spun the camshaft good though. I was thinking about doing magnet too but I didnt and it all worked out.

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

My dumbass bought 20 pen magnets for back up and ended up buying a size to big, so I couldn't use any of them. So the homemade rods were gold for me.

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

If you ground a flat on the rods I was told they go in better. I have two rods waiting for my pulley. I already have a TSP Torquer, springs, pump, etc. So I do not need to removed any AC lines. The write-up says to remove the AC lines. Thanks, that will save me a few dollars.

Bill

fbody1

iTrader: (3)

It can be a pain to move, but the condensor can be moved downwards and it really makes its easy to do everything Cam related. I just finished up my install last week so its fresh in my memory. Good luck with the damn oil pick up tube, if I ever have to do one again I'll hoist the engine slightly to get it off the K-Member. Good luck

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

I didn't take any lines loose. Move the condensor up, but had to be gentle with the lines. Used a bungie when it was in place while I did the cam swap.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

oil pickup tube isnt that bad. just get a ratcheting wrench, and hold the bolt with some neddle-nose pliers while you put it in. it helps to have 2 people, but i did mine by myself so its doable.

Bluehawk27

I really didnt see what the big deal was about the pick up tube, all i used was the ratcheting wrench with a shop rag in the pan. I got it out pretty easily and putting it back in was only slightly harder.