Optimal quench?
I've been told OEMs don't go for a tight quench because they simply can't on mass produced engines. When they deck the block, their tolerance is only so good. If they deck it too low and there is piston/head contact, the block is junk. So instead they deck it a bit too high, don't make any junk blocks, but also end up with a larger quench clearance.
so they won't eat the dimention up either.Gm runs the quench where they do because
of stacked tolerances.You could have one rod,one piston,and one crank on the high side of accepable dimention and still be ok with a block on the short side.I guess someone is going to have to run one at .025 and see what happens.
This is why when folks set the preload on their Comp-R lifters cold @ .010, the car starts to rattle when it gets warm. The preload is all gone, and the cam now has positive lash in in. Thats why minimal pre-load must be done with the motor warm.
As for quench, as stated .035 - .040 with the gasket compressed. And without the actual spec of the piston and how much in or out of the bore it is, its all a guess.
It also means more of the fuel in the cylinder will get burned, less waste means more power. As for quench effect, I think that does a similar thing to squish but it also cools the charge temps (hence quench) as the fuel burn is squeezed away from the pad on the piston and the pad in the head. This reduces detonation and again speeds up combustion but thats been said already.You know your getting close to optimum if the top end rattles when cold but is quiet when hot! Happened on a tvr over here with the wrong head gaskets at any revs over 3500 rpm. Funny thing was the owner could still rev past 7 yet there was no visible damage when he fitted the right gaskets. Lucky guy or what.

I alweays found it strange that our rover v8's had quench pads in the heads and bowled pistons. Iirc the buick 300 is the same.
I kind of screwed up on my gasket thickness when building the motor. I was told one thing and got another and ordered Cometic .040" gaskets ahead of time. This means I have .048" quench, pistons are +.008". this is not really optimal quench right?
Dan
Don't you mean .032" quench? If you're pistons are out of the hole .008, you subtract that from the gasket. See the first post.
Dan
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Maybe they were made for another chevy? I know that a while back everybody was insisting on using the older small block pin diameter which I found really frustrating as I wanted to retain stock rods and large pins. It's good everybody has caught up and now we can buy the right piston/rod parts
You'll just need a thinner gasket and maybe a check on the pushrods which has been covered elsewhere quite recently. I know what works because we have tested it. Its called Research and Development, something the average DIY guy doesnt have the money to perform unless you are more than just the DIY guy
Mike, mine are below the deck because of the use of Ross pistons and Lunati connecting rods. I already use 7.350 PR's and am pretty good on the geometry of the valvetrain along with pre-load.
So I guess a .030" gasket for me is in store to set me at .038" quench. Good thing I have valve reliefs because the heads are milled .035" as well to get the CR in the 10.8 range...
Dan
I got mine from AFR:
The AFR part # for the .040 Cometic gasket is "6846".
They sell them for $72.95 a piece.
keeping that to yourself?
Last edited by RX-Ben; Jan 11, 2005 at 08:28 PM.
With .042 gasket, if piston is ____ quench will be _____:
.005-.037
.006-.036
.007-.035
.008-.034
.009-.033
.010-.032
I read of the .042" gasket here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/257420-vicni-afr-205-head-only-test-take-2-a.html
but who makes it?
Ben






