High Horse Power strokers and ARP studs

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Jan 7, 2005 | 04:45 PM

Green Thunder

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High Horse Power strokers and ARP studs

Is anyone running a High Horsepower Iron block stroker WITHOUT ARP main studs?

BTW: Not asking cause I want to save $175.00 so please save the cheap skate comments. Thanks

Jan 7, 2005 | 04:59 PM

Nate_Taufer

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Man if you're gonna spray, it's just a little added insurance. I'm running em on a stock bottom end short block 346 just because when i build my 427 i'll already have them. If you're looking at n/a then you'll be more than adequate with the arp head bolts instead of the stud kit

Jan 7, 2005 | 05:03 PM

Bo White

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I think if the factory fasteners are fresh and properly installed you probably will not have any problem out of it. They used to build jugged strokers before ARP came out with any and they "lived".

Jan 8, 2005 | 09:36 AM

Scalpel

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My MTI assembled 427 used factory mains bolts. I didn't request either that's just what it came with.

Jan 8, 2005 | 09:56 AM

Green Thunder

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Thanks guys...

Starting to feel a little better!

Any main failures?

Jan 8, 2005 | 10:00 AM

Green Thunder

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Quote:

Originally Posted by taufern

I am running ARP head studs, just overlooked the main studs... Trying to figure out if it is neccessary to pull her out and tear her down to stud it. When you use the studs you have to re align bore the mains so it turns into a major project..

Jan 8, 2005 | 10:55 AM

11 Bravo

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I have every bolt/stud that ARP makes. As much as these strokers cost, it doesn't make sense to me to be cheap on the stuff that holds it together.

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Jan 8, 2005 | 06:40 PM

Nate_Taufer

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durf...just realized you said main studs. main bolts from arp are definitely adequate.

Nate

Jan 8, 2005 | 07:06 PM

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Bryan@LME

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Every LS block I have sceen making decent power w/ factory bolts has had significantly more metal transfer between the caps and block. Factory bolts tend to strech under high loads. The ARP's reduce cap walk considerably. Bearing also look alot nicer.