Solid Roller vs. Hydraulic
I would go with Solid Roller Valvetrain, if you get with the right cam guy they can build you a solid cam that you won't have to worry about lashing that much.
I'll weigh my Morel Lifters when they come in. FWIW you can get a good set of T&D shaft mounts in the $800 Range.
Floyd.
I'll weigh my Morel Lifters when they come in. FWIW you can get a good set of T&D shaft mounts in the $800 Range.
Floyd.
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From: Reno, NV
Originally Posted by MUSTANGEATER
I would go with Solid Roller Valvetrain, if you get with the right cam guy they can build you a solid cam that you won't have to worry about lashing that much.
I'll weigh my Morel Lifters when they come in. FWIW you can get a good set of T&D shaft mounts in the $800 Range.
Floyd.
I'll weigh my Morel Lifters when they come in. FWIW you can get a good set of T&D shaft mounts in the $800 Range.
Floyd.
Thanks, Floyd.
Chris Straub, Allan Futral, Ed Curtis, Bret Bauer can all help you out with camshaft, I'd try to contact all of them and talk to them and weigh in who you think is the one you would like to work with best.
What are you going to be using for Cylinder Heads? Intake? I'd look at a set of LS6 or AFR's ported by a really good porter. Meaux, Greg Good, Richard @ West Coast.
The combo I'm putting together is simple but it has to work together to be right.
90 MM LSX intake and TB
Meaux LS6 Heads Set up for Solid Roller
Custom Camshaft
Morel Lifters (would get Jessel's if I had the extra coin $$$$)
T&D Rockers (would get Jessel's if I had the extra coin)
Stock Cubic Inch Forged Rods & Pistons
What are you going to be using for Cylinder Heads? Intake? I'd look at a set of LS6 or AFR's ported by a really good porter. Meaux, Greg Good, Richard @ West Coast.
The combo I'm putting together is simple but it has to work together to be right.
90 MM LSX intake and TB
Meaux LS6 Heads Set up for Solid Roller
Custom Camshaft
Morel Lifters (would get Jessel's if I had the extra coin $$$$)
T&D Rockers (would get Jessel's if I had the extra coin)
Stock Cubic Inch Forged Rods & Pistons
Thread Starter
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From: Reno, NV
Originally Posted by MUSTANGEATER
Chris Straub, Allan Futral, Ed Curtis, Bret Bauer can all help you out with camshaft, I'd try to contact all of them and talk to them and weigh in who you think is the one you would like to work with best.
What are you going to be using for Cylinder Heads? Intake? I'd look at a set of LS6 or AFR's ported by a really good porter. Meaux, Greg Good, Richard @ West Coast.
The combo I'm putting together is simple but it has to work together to be right.
90 MM LSX intake and TB
Meaux LS6 Heads Set up for Solid Roller
Custom Camshaft
Morel Lifters (would get Jessel's if I had the extra coin $$$$)
T&D Rockers (would get Jessel's if I had the extra coin)
Stock Cubic Inch Forged Rods & Pistons
What are you going to be using for Cylinder Heads? Intake? I'd look at a set of LS6 or AFR's ported by a really good porter. Meaux, Greg Good, Richard @ West Coast.
The combo I'm putting together is simple but it has to work together to be right.
90 MM LSX intake and TB
Meaux LS6 Heads Set up for Solid Roller
Custom Camshaft
Morel Lifters (would get Jessel's if I had the extra coin $$$$)
T&D Rockers (would get Jessel's if I had the extra coin)
Stock Cubic Inch Forged Rods & Pistons
For heads and intake, was thinking AFR and FAST with the FAST computer for ignition and injection. Still thinking pump-gas, which is 91 octane here in Reno and California.
What are your targets for RPM, torque, BHP and compression ratio?
Thanks again!
Target compression is going to be about ~ 12.5:1 on 93 octane possibly more, not going to be 100% ideal for 93 but it will work, I hope lol. Trying to make 600 HP at the crank, but we'll see. I'm going to Coating the Chambers, and Pistons and maybe a few other parts to keep away from detonation. Evans coolant and an Evans waterpump will help also. Bret Bauer would be the guy to talk to about a high HP engine on pump gas. If you need any of these guys contact info PM me I can try to help you out. 
JRP on this board is running ~12.02 compression and planning on cali pump gas.
JRP on this board is running ~12.02 compression and planning on cali pump gas.
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From: Reno, NV
Originally Posted by MUSTANGEATER
Target compression is going to be about ~ 12.5:1 on 93 octane possibly more, not going to be 100% ideal for 93 but it will work, I hope lol. Trying to make 600 HP at the crank, but we'll see. I'm going to Coating the Chambers, and Pistons and maybe a few other parts to keep away from detonation. Evans coolant and an Evans waterpump will help also. Bret Bauer would be the guy to talk to about a high HP engine on pump gas. If you need any of these guys contact info PM me I can try to help you out.
JRP on this board is running ~12.02 compression and planning on cali pump gas.
JRP on this board is running ~12.02 compression and planning on cali pump gas.
Thanks, I will look around on the net for the contact infos for those guys and PM you if I don't find them. This is going to be a blast!
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[QUOTE=Builder]KingCrapBox, do you like any desktop dyno software, or are you of the opinion that they are all worthless?[\QUOTE]
I am of the opinion that Desktop Dyno sucks. There are a few very good dyno simulation software programs that are very accurate to real world results. These softward programs are far and few between, and VERY expensive.
I am of the opinion that Desktop Dyno sucks. There are a few very good dyno simulation software programs that are very accurate to real world results. These softward programs are far and few between, and VERY expensive.
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From: Reno, NV
Originally Posted by KingCrapBox
Originally Posted by Builder
KingCrapBox, do you like any desktop dyno software, or are you of the opinion that they are all worthless?
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The stuff from Performance Trends is ok...especially the Engine Analyzer Pro. Not perfect. And they will give you 50 million warnings that it isn't exact. But the best of the sub $1k stuff that I've seen.
Ummm, sounds like a big budget. I would also give Katech a call. It sounds like you should be buying the engine complete from an engine builder. And I think for the same price all will use a lot of cubes and fewer revs. Since it is the same block, crank, rods, etc...it is about the same weight.
There is no real reason to use production car parts other than price. With an open budget you would be looking at a Callies/Crower/Cola/etc ctank, Pauter/Crower/Carillo Ti billet rods, CP/JE pistons, etc. Shafts from T&D or Jesel. Ti valves from Del West or Ferrea. Valve springs from PSI. I like the Manley ICD retainers.
Anyway, a given engine builder will have a preference on all this stuff. All of the stuff--crank, rods, pistons, cam, valves--will be built to order. And if they build winning motors that last, that's what counts.
If it is a non-A/C track car, then you should be using a dry sump. Available from ARE (drysump.com).
My 3rd ¢.
David
Ummm, sounds like a big budget. I would also give Katech a call. It sounds like you should be buying the engine complete from an engine builder. And I think for the same price all will use a lot of cubes and fewer revs. Since it is the same block, crank, rods, etc...it is about the same weight.
There is no real reason to use production car parts other than price. With an open budget you would be looking at a Callies/Crower/Cola/etc ctank, Pauter/Crower/Carillo Ti billet rods, CP/JE pistons, etc. Shafts from T&D or Jesel. Ti valves from Del West or Ferrea. Valve springs from PSI. I like the Manley ICD retainers.
Anyway, a given engine builder will have a preference on all this stuff. All of the stuff--crank, rods, pistons, cam, valves--will be built to order. And if they build winning motors that last, that's what counts.
If it is a non-A/C track car, then you should be using a dry sump. Available from ARE (drysump.com).
My 3rd ¢.
David
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From: Reno, NV
Originally Posted by DavidNJ
The stuff from Performance Trends is ok...especially the Engine Analyzer Pro. Not perfect. And they will give you 50 million warnings that it isn't exact. But the best of the sub $1k stuff that I've seen.
Ummm, sounds like a big budget. I would also give Katech a call. It sounds like you should be buying the engine complete from an engine builder. And I think for the same price all will use a lot of cubes and fewer revs. Since it is the same block, crank, rods, etc...it is about the same weight.
There is no real reason to use production car parts other than price. With an open budget you would be looking at a Callies/Crower/Cola/etc ctank, Pauter/Crower/Carillo Ti billet rods, CP/JE pistons, etc. Shafts from T&D or Jesel. Ti valves from Del West or Ferrea. Valve springs from PSI. I like the Manley ICD retainers.
Anyway, a given engine builder will have a preference on all this stuff. All of the stuff--crank, rods, pistons, cam, valves--will be built to order. And if they build winning motors that last, that's what counts.
If it is a non-A/C track car, then you should be using a dry sump. Available from ARE (drysump.com).
My 3rd ¢.
David
Ummm, sounds like a big budget. I would also give Katech a call. It sounds like you should be buying the engine complete from an engine builder. And I think for the same price all will use a lot of cubes and fewer revs. Since it is the same block, crank, rods, etc...it is about the same weight.
There is no real reason to use production car parts other than price. With an open budget you would be looking at a Callies/Crower/Cola/etc ctank, Pauter/Crower/Carillo Ti billet rods, CP/JE pistons, etc. Shafts from T&D or Jesel. Ti valves from Del West or Ferrea. Valve springs from PSI. I like the Manley ICD retainers.
Anyway, a given engine builder will have a preference on all this stuff. All of the stuff--crank, rods, pistons, cam, valves--will be built to order. And if they build winning motors that last, that's what counts.
If it is a non-A/C track car, then you should be using a dry sump. Available from ARE (drysump.com).
My 3rd ¢.
David
I have a friend that has only worked on Corvettes since 1975. Vettes are his life. He has offered to help me build the engine. He builds a couple a year for his personal project cars and a couple a month for his corvette customers.
I have been reading forums and books (about 10 now) for the last few months and hope that I can contribute to the assembly process...as well as suggest logical choices for dependable components to reach the power goals. I know there is no replacement for actual experience, so I would not try to build this myself. Besides, it would require an investment in engine-building tools as well.
Big budget...well, sort of big, I guess. Of course, big is relative. I have seen engines for $50k+. Way too much for this kid. I am thinking sub-$20k for the engine with dry sump. Probably Callies/C&A/Carillo/Jesel are in there for sure. That ARE drysump looks very interesting. Will research that more. Was going with Moroso. Not clear on the valves/springs yet. So, I appreciate the pointers to Dana West, Ferrea, PSI and Manley. I will check them out.
When I have my list together, I will post it and see what folks think about the combo.
Dave, thanks for the extra penny's worth. What would you come up with for a dime?
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From: Reno, NV
Originally Posted by bickelfirebird
We lash valves very week and we would tend to want to do that if we had a solid lifter setup in our LS1 car.
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Well, I agree that our 622 is a much more exotic motor than most LS1s, so comparisons are difficult to make. For example, our 12 degree Raptor (Ray Franks design) aluminum heads w/triple Manley springs, titanium valves and retainers, flow over 600 cfm at the intake valve and cost around $20,000 (gulp). But we broke our previous version of this motor last September 11 (!) and have become paranoid about maintenance such as valve lash.
Originally Posted by bickelfirebird
For example, our 12 degree Raptor (Ray Franks design) aluminum heads w/triple Manley springs, titanium valves and retainers, flow over 600 cfm at the intake valve and cost around $20,000 (gulp).
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From: Motorhome, Freeways, Truckstops, Pits
My heads are good, but pale in comparison to current Pro Stock heads that probably flow over 650 cfm. But our car is a bracket or ET car built to do laps. We could have designed it to make another 50 hp or so, but that would have been counterproductive.
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From: Reno, NV
Originally Posted by bickelfirebird
Well, I agree that our 622 is a much more exotic motor than most LS1s, so comparisons are difficult to make. For example, our 12 degree Raptor (Ray Franks design) aluminum heads w/triple Manley springs, titanium valves and retainers, flow over 600 cfm at the intake valve and cost around $20,000 (gulp). But we broke our previous version of this motor last September 11 (!) and have become paranoid about maintenance such as valve lash.
