PewterWSSicc

I asked in the FI section and one of them said i should come and ask this question here. I wanna make about 550+rwhp and rwtq on the stock engine with a turbo. What can the Piston Rods handle and what other part might break on me. Any ideas on what i should rev too? And i will most likely add a turbo cam a short while after the turbo.

2001 T/A WS6 6-Speed
321hp/337trq 13.1@109 on Nitto's
Lid and Filter/Magnaflow Cat-Back/Thermostat/TB Bypass/Pro 5.0 Shifter
Nitto DR's

jrp

iTrader: (16)

there is no static calculation as there are a myriad of factors.

PewterWSSicc

Ok thats kinda what i thought. So it is possible to hit 550rwhp on the stock engine and have it actually last a little while. But i am aware that i will be on borrowed time and something will break, most likely within 6 months. Thank you for the help.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

define "a while"?. honestly if your going to do it, i'd just as well do it right with a forged bottom with low compression. you can pick up a forged shortblock for under 3k. i dont see the point of building a 550rwhp on weak foundation. if you do the stock bottom end thing your tune is crutial.

PewterWSSicc

It would be a better idea to get it taken care of right away. And if i can get the shortblock with forged internals for 3k installed and everything done, then thats not too bad. Ill run into a few other problems, like low boost wont be enough for me, ill need new injectors, fuel pump, and im not sure what else? that is something for me to think about though, didnt know it was that cheap for the shortblock.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

i got my shortblock for ~2600; ls6 block, stock treated crank, custom diamond pistons w/ rings, eagle H beams, arp main studs, clevite bearings.

you can get something similar from a number of sponsors and have it built with boost in mind. but yes, things add up quick when you want to do something right. what turbo system were you plannning to go with? i assume your negating smog?

PewterWSSicc

Yes, there will be no more smog. And im not sure on the turbo system i wanna go with. Im pretty sure no STS, but im still wondering on which one to go with. Any ideas or leads for me.

TheBowtieboy

iTrader: (6)

Actually, from what I've been told by a few engine builders is that the stock rods aren't that bad.....don't know about 550 RWHP though - I wouldn't chance it. The thing that you need to be careful of is the rod bolts - simply put - junk IMO if you spin the motor above 6200.

Personally, I not going above 450 so I stayed with the stock rods (treated) but went to ARP rod bolts.

Good luck ! !......and yes, do it right the 1st time - it'll save you in the long run

PewterWSSicc

Alright perhaps ill just go ahead and get the engine built at the same time. Cause im not really interested in a 450-500rwhp turbo car. I can do that with nitrous and H/C. So I guess ill be looking inot internals also when i get the turbo. Guess the cam will have to wait a bit.

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

haha u can do a lot more then 450 with h/c and nitrous... no offense but there are h/c cars making well over 400, add a 100-150 shot.. and that is prolly safer on the stock bottom end then a the amount of boost it will take to make 550rwhp on a stock motor.. the compression is to high with the stock stuff, it wont last long.

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

oh and there are cars making 700 with boost and a forged 347.

PewterWSSicc

Yeah i know you can make lots of power with H/C and nitrous. I have heard of some cars making over 500rwhp with T-rex/AFR heads/FAST 90mm TB and intake. Not sure if it is all true, but i have friends that made over 450 with just H/C. I just want the turbo because i wanna go beyond that after i get the built block.

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

hmm... i would think u could just upgrade rods and pistons and get the turbo all at the same time... to upgrade the rods/pistons is going to cost a lot less then the avg turbo setup.

PewterWSSicc

Yeah, a couple of people have said that'll to get the internals it'll cost me about 2600-3000. So i tihnk im just gonna do it at the same time. Im pretty sure i dont need to replace the crank, im not upping the CI any.