Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Im getting ready to intsall my T-ReX. Clearance was .080" on the intake and .060" on the exhuast. Of course, my cam wasnt ground to the exact advertised specs. I was told by one of the saleman from Thunder that the cams arent always going to be ground exact, but they have to fall in a certain range for them to be sold. He also said that all cams are cam doctored before putting on the shelf for sale. I went with a heat treated double roller timing chain from Rollmaster and a bunch of other goodies. Knowing that clearance is tight, should I degree my T-ReX in?

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

yes.like i posted earlier,i didn't and my car is a little down on power and the HP peak is about 200rpm-400rpm lower than what thunder said it should be for my combo.it's either valvetrain related(not likely)or the cam is off a tooth or too far advanced.if i would have degreed it,i would have either found something was off or eliminated that as a problem.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Drag- Its always the safe route, you eliminate the possibility of having an Off-Grind (manufacturer defect etc). Back in the day more people degreed cams to get more torque or more hp, depending on their goal more so than to get ideal clearance... even now, many of us running aftermarket cams are doing what, trying to get every last Hp out. So it makes sense to degree it anyway.

J-Rod

I think its a mistake not to degree a cam. Folks ASSUME that comp, lunati, cam motion, and reed never make mistakes. Do a search and you'll find out that is 100% incorrect. Then folks ASSUME that if the cam maker makes a mistake, then the shop that sold them the cam will have checked it. Again, another assumption. So, many folks are running such tight clearances as it is, and skimping on flycutting, and when you ask them if they degree the cam you get "Nope I just installed it straight up". What if the LSA is wrong? What if its the wrong lobe? What if its just totally the wrong cam?

I'm glad everyone out there just assumes this is all magic, and it goes together like tinkertoys, and it always works. But of course, the same thing goes for springs. Folks install springs and never check setup height or spring pressure either. Then they break a spring, and all of the sudden vendor X makes a crappy spring. Of course the fact that they were .100 off on install height, and the spring have insufficent open/close pressure is ignored since it was never checked....

Bottom line folks assume far too much, and leave too much to chance. When it goes wrong they look to blame the vendors/mfgs for their own mistakes... If you don't check your work, no one else is going to either...

LS1 Swapper

I just installed a comp cams single chain adjustable sprocket set, very nice piece and allows advance and retard up to 6 degrees with a essentric on the cam sprocket. By drilling, tapping and installing a plug in the recess on the timing chain cover you can adjust the cam timing without pulling anything apart.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I thought the main reason for cam doctoring a cam was to ensure that it was ground properly or to fall in a certain range. Again, my cam wasnt ground to the exact advertised specs, but I assume it feel in the range of being sold. I also thought that degreeing a cam was to verify if the cam is ground properly. So basically youre doing the same thing wether its on a machine or in the car. I would assume that since its been verified on a cam doctor, then to install it straight up. Im not arguing or saying that any of you are wrong, Im just wanting to know myself so that I dont screw anything up. I installed my last cam straight up without verifying anything, but the cam was small and Im sure I had room for error. I must of done it right because it pushed me to the 10s cam only. I cant expect to have great luck this time around, but if my cam has been cam doctored to ensure that its safe to run and has been verified, then should it be re-checked?

On checking the spring height and pressure, I didnt do that either on my last springs, but this swap is much more serious and aggressive. Im installing the Patriot Gold dual spring kit, there are no variances in spring seats, it only comes with 1 size. So the height and pressure is going to be the same right? Again, this swap I feel is more critical, so I want to check everything. How do I check the pressure and height of the springs? Is it necessary on the Patriot kit?

nuzee

iTrader: (2)

I see it as verifying if the cam is INSTALLED properly. Somebody once posted that depending on how they tightened down the cam bolts, that it caused a degree deflection. There's chain slack to also consider. I also remember a post complaining about XYZ's chain set advancing the cam 2 degrees on the straight-up position.

LS1swapper
I thought about doing the same mod to a stock timing cover. Do you have any pics to share? How many holes are needed to loosen the cam bolts? TIA

LS1 Swapper

It would depend on the valve seat and how its located relative to the spring length. If the seat is sunk or ground it effects when the valve mounts to the spring retainer, thus effecting spring pressure. You can still shim under the valve spring.


Just one hole needs to be drilled, I am in the process of doing just that, then you rotate the engine over and loose the three cam bolts, then line up the essentric and use an allen key to turn it and line up the dots on the cam and the essentric for advance or retard. Looks pretty straight forward, I would and will check the PTV clearance at ends of the useable range ensure I dont have an issue. I already know that 2-6 degrees retard are out of the question on my setup.

smask04C5

iTrader: (1)

Crane billet adjustable double roller chain very nice piece, Part # 144984-1

Chubba

Just a newby from downunder, but thought this was also worth a read.

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/In.../Files/145.pdf

Catch

AJ Bertelson

sorta OT,

I remember reading a couple of years ago about breaking in cams and rockers. They get a memory to them and the entire cam system(cam, rockers, pushrods, and springs) will perform better if you replace the entire system.

not certain if it is true but I was wondering anyways