just completed h/c swap end of Jan, roger said to run it for a couple hundred miles. Degreed cam straight up, P/V clearance .095 intake, .042 comp. mrgasket. lost just a bit of torque off idle to 1500, but from 1800-6200 rpm, pulls very hard and really never falls off. T/C off, from 25 mph, boils tires through first and partway through second. i do all work myself, but impressed with VHP's product line and technical expertise. will dyno as soon as i can get to maitland

 

Please keep me in mind when you get the dyno numbers,I've spoke to Roger about this cam & 1.89 rockers for me... pm me when you get the info..

I too I'm ipressed with VHP, Roger & their Service and expertise... I'll do busniess with Roger any day!!!!!

 

Why are you guys interested in the Boss II 056 (216 224 0.551 0.551 115) over the Boss 055 (216 224 0.551 0.551 113)?

The tighter LSA (113 vs 115) will give better midrange and a more aggressive idle? Is it because the Boss 055 hp drops too quickly at high rpm?

 

http://www.vincihighperformance.com/...%20LS1%202.htm just a guess, but probably for this statement SAME AS THE BOSS WITH BETTER LOW END

a cam with the same duration but with a tighter LSA will give better midrange. but, at the expensive of low and top end. you shorten the usable rpm range by doing that. a wider LSA on the same specs will give less peak but a longer, usable power band.

tigher LSA will feel like BOG, OH CRAP I JUST **** MY PANTS, and then end with IT FEELS LIKE IT"S FALLING OVER ON THE TOP.

wider gives a smoother response like floor it, HMMM doesn't 'feel' fast. then look down at speedo and go DAMN, I"M DOING 100 MPH AND DIDN"T REALIZED IT!!!!

 

Thanks for the explanation. I never heard of the low end dropping off with tighter LSA, just the upper end. I just thought the "better low end" comment on the website referred to idle quailty.

It seems that an LSA between 112 and 114 are most popular. But a 113 LSA is tight enough to notice a drop off in the low rpm range?

 

well that was a laymans explanation. not necessarily a drop. but rather a sudden 'jerk' of power when you hit the cams starting power band. maybe more of a HEY, GOOD START, THEN HOLY CRAP, ending with KINDA NOSING OVER might be a better explanation. with a stock converter, which you have a manual, you'd feel it the first way i described. with your manual, you can just rev over it and hit dump the clutch. nice having a 'variable' stall trans (manual).

 

i just realized that a VHP cam/rocker combo is almost 11 dollars . seems more cost effective to get a custom or OTS XE-R cam then it is the VHP :dunno:

nice graph z-man.

 

jz06man will post dyno results when available. just for kicks, i may dyno prior to converter change, as i am still running stock. yank 3000 should be a good addition

 

or they could've just used a bigger VHP cam. maybe they want a nice increase with only a minor change in idle sound and quality. maybe they like the idea of better drivetrain stability by upgrading the valvetrain in it's entirety. (yeah, yeah, i know 500rwhp cars using stock rockers. i've read the posts.) i had a one degree knock retard before adding the rockers and springs kits. it went away and i gained 17 rwhp with only the rockers and springs kits. this was on a stock cam.

 

The reason i like VHP cam & rockers , is the fact that i don't have to move to a bigger cam (and lose idle quality) to achive similiar or higher power. Yes the cam & rockers are more $$$, but if it meets my goals of not affecting too much idle quality and gives power- This is for me..

Thank's for the flowers on the graph, i thought it was good, but was not sure.

smask04c5, you don't need to pay $500 for a dyno pull- This is for a compelete tune. You can pay about $90 for a one or two dyno pulls.

 

yep already dynoed once 12/04 at vinci's prior to the h/c install 351rwhp/360ft#tq third gear roll on A4 $85 i believe, or thereabout

 

smask04c5.
Dyno yet or a video at idle and reving???

 

You can do the same thing with just a cam the correct cam

 

there is better benefits by going the smaller lobes with larger ratio rockers. with the larger lobes, you stand more of a chance of the lifters to 'loft' off the cam. basically meaning the lifter not even touching the cam. people think it's valve float when it really the lifter flying off the lobe. then landing on the base circle. or even when the lobe is back on the upward swing. so, smaller lobe will help to prevent this from happening. less need for higher spring seat pressures.

and if the larger ratio roackers vs larger cam lobes is such a wrong thing to do, then why did GM move from 1.5 to 1.6 when they wanted more out of the LT1 to make the LT4. then move to 1.7 with the LS1. and now 1.8 with the LS7? man what is GM thinking?

 

well said mrr23. drove car to jax this weekend, Roger suggested I set tuner to cam selection #3 for the Boss II, tried 10% enrichment, but ended up going back to stock enrichment. car ran great, averaged 23.6 mpg, running up I-95 and back on US 19. Added 50 rpm to idle with tuner, idles @650 in gear, pulls great from 1500-6200

 

good to hear it. if you look at the notes for my dyno, it says cam #3 and +10% power enrichment. gave the most gain. without the +10% PE was a loss of 4 rwhp. but, when i went to the track, i ended up taking the +10% PE out and picked up .04. but the weather was about 15* hotter as well. i, also, added 50 rpm idle. got rid of some misfiring due to most likely needing plug wires.

 

in december vinci dynoed my car, 04 C5 A4 with 351rwhp and 360 ft#tq with donaldson,dynatech, crane 1.8 rockers and spring kit, magnaflow exhaust. PP ls6 style heads combined with Boss II cam woke the car right up! Roger suggested cam selection#3 because less timing is needed for these heads. I plan on getting yank SS 3200, then dyno again.

 

ah ha!!! so, you're the one that roger told me about installing patriot heads on. he said patriot has made great improvement on the porting from years ago. i just got my yank SS3400E from them. for the 00 formula.

 

probably will put about 1000 miles on these heads, install converter, dyno, then install AFR 205's and do it all over again. BTW, I do all installs myself

 

so, they didn't put the heads on? must've heard him wrong then. maybe he was just teliing me about doing the dyno then. are you going to get their drive plate for the C5? http://www.vincihighperformance.com/...TS%20PAGE.HTML