NewZ

2000 SS.

Mods as follows:
built tranny with steel synchros, Denny's drive shaft (guarenteed not to break or it gets replaced), BMR suspension (torque arm, DS loop, LCA, panhard rod, sub frames, ASP pulley, lid, off-road Y-Pipe, SLP loudmouth, 12 Moser rear with 33 spline axles, 4.10 gears, Eaton posi, B&M shifter, Mcleod clutch, Mcleod adjustable master, upgraded 2001 hydrolics, T1 MTI cam, comp 9.18 valve springs, Hooker long tube headers, MTI lid with ram air mod, Autometer shift light, drilled and slotted rotors, Eibach drag launch springs, SLP LS6 intake, and Centerline Convo Pro skinnies and rear drag radials.

Anyone have any idea as to what it'll cost to fix it?

Also, can it be done with the motor in the car or does it need to come out?

Thanks,
Alan

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

The motor has to come out, you need to pull your crank out, have it turned down long as its not too bad, if your rod is out of shape you will need a new rod too, then balance rotating assembly and install it with new bearing(s).

This is a good time to do a forged bottom end and oil pump, you should invest in some forged rods with arp rod bolts at a minimum

NewZ

This is going to be a car that's used as a daily driver. No need for a forged bottom end as what you see is all the car's ever going to get.

Any idea as to what it'll cost to get it fixed?

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

depends on how much labor you do your self. Start by calling some of these guys -->

NewZ

I'm not quite there yet. I dont' want to start calling around until I look at the car. It's for sale locally and I'd like an idea as to what I'm getting into before I make an offer.

I can't imagine this would take more than a weekend to fix. Pull the motor, tear it down, put it back together. I'd imagine it'll take longer to send it all to a shop to clean the block than anything else...