motor break in methods
motor break in methods basically, im finally dropping in the motor and i would like to see ya'll opinions on how to properly break the motor in and anything i should lookout for. Wat oil? Miles before break in oil change? etc.
I have a good idea but just wanted to see wat ya'll thought....
thanks
I have a good idea but just wanted to see wat ya'll thought....
thanks
TECH Regular
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
From: Corvallis, Or
What I was told when I dropped the motor into my 67, was to start it on non synthetic oil, do the cam break in 15 minutes at 2k rpm I think. Then change oil and run it on non synthetic for 500 miles with out beating on it (hardest part). Then change oil and run it on synthetic from there on out. Put about 10k on it since rebuild and it runs flawlessly.
TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,050
Likes: 0
From: its fucking cold
ok, just read all of that and i cant help but be interested in it.......
but hs anyone here tried this method and wat were your results?
IM gonna post another thread in another arer to see if morepeople would reply...
very interesting..
thanks!!
but hs anyone here tried this method and wat were your results?
IM gonna post another thread in another arer to see if morepeople would reply...
very interesting..
thanks!!
this is wat im think after talking to the Engine builder:
1.Prime Oil pump
2.Heat cycle#1 Check for engine vitals (oil presuure, coolant, etc.)
3.Cool down (30mins.)
4.Heat cyle#2 Check for vitals again
5. Coll down (30mins.)
6.Run for 300-400miles with regular oil.
7.Change oil.
8.DYNO!!!!!
9.Run for another 1k miles.
10.Change oil
11.Drop in my choice of motor oil....
12. DYNO!!!
13. Have FUN!!!
14. REpeat step 13 over and over again!!!
did i leave anything out?
1.Prime Oil pump
2.Heat cycle#1 Check for engine vitals (oil presuure, coolant, etc.)
3.Cool down (30mins.)
4.Heat cyle#2 Check for vitals again
5. Coll down (30mins.)
6.Run for 300-400miles with regular oil.
7.Change oil.
8.DYNO!!!!!
9.Run for another 1k miles.
10.Change oil
11.Drop in my choice of motor oil....
12. DYNO!!!
13. Have FUN!!!
14. REpeat step 13 over and over again!!!
did i leave anything out?
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 929
Likes: 0
From: NC
You will get many different answers on this subject but from my experience around many race motors and hot street motors is this. Get the motor started and make sure everything looks ok with noises, leaks, oil pressure, adjustments,fluid levels, etc. Let it get to normal temp and cut it off.Let it cool down and repeat this procedure. This is to insure that nothing major is wrong before you go wide open under full power. After this, run it at full throttle as soon as possible. You need to seat the rings under full throttle for the best results from a motor and you have little time to do it. 50 miles of babying the thing will not seat the rings properly. You don't have to break in any type of roller cam. So get it running, make sure everything is ok and then run it like you stole it. No need to baby a motor period. Its built right or its not. Ring seating is key! Also as stated above, use non-synthetic for at least the first 1k miles to aid ring seat.
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Launching!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
I would do the the heat cycle thing a few times. Run it for 20 mins let it cool down for an hour and then start it up again. Then I would just take it out on the highway and drive it for a 100 to 500 miles right away varing the speed and rpms. I was told that if you brake in a motor fast it will be a fast motor. I would change the filter and oil after a 1000 miles.
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
What do you guys think about turbocharged engines? I don't want to open it up with 15psi on the engine, but thats the lowest my spring goes. Should I take out the wastegate spring all together or what? Thanks,
--Bryson
--Bryson
anyone else?
In theory, you would need to load the seats to set properly but full throttle? For how long are these bursts adequate enough to ensure proper seal? Also, after 20-50miles i should go back to normal driving?
In theory, you would need to load the seats to set properly but full throttle? For how long are these bursts adequate enough to ensure proper seal? Also, after 20-50miles i should go back to normal driving?
not full throttle, around med rpm 2500-3500 , and they are not burst this is steady driving..... after this continue normal driving break in procedures, but never lug the engine....high gear,low speed..always keep the engine loaded,dont worry about rpm,....about 100 miles after the initial road break in, you can start winding it out but gradually but do not go 100% full throttle...I would also change the oil after every 1000 miles and I always start with dino oil, then switch to synthetic at about 3000-5000 miles
TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,050
Likes: 0
From: its fucking cold
Originally Posted by oange ss
not full throttle, around med rpm 2500-3500 , and they are not burst this is steady driving..... after this continue normal driving break in procedures, but never lug the engine....high gear,low speed..always keep the engine loaded,dont worry about rpm,....about 100 miles after the initial road break in, you can start winding it out but gradually but do not go 100% full throttle...I would also change the oil after every 1000 miles and I always start with dino oil, then switch to synthetic at about 3000-5000 miles
For a turbo engine i would probably find a way to disconnect the turbo for the first 50 or so miles while i was breaking in the engine.
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 273
Likes: 1
From: Trois-Rivières (Québec / Canada)
This is the way I did my 382's break-in. I drove the car as much as i could on the highway (going nowhere) shifting constantly my speed between 40 and 70 mph.
The key is to keep the engine loaded. In 5th gear (3.73's) From 40 mph I gradually applied the throttle to 3/4. At 70 mph I gently let off the throttle and let the engine break the car to 40 mph. Again and again...
I did this for the first 800 miles. I did applied WOT a few times, but never "hammered" the pedal or revved over 3500 rpm.
The drawbacks are an horrible gas consumption during the break-in period, other drivers thinking that you don't know how to drive... and you have to resist the urge to "see what it can do"
I applied this method with success to 3 stock engines (3.4L, LT1, LS1) and my current 382.
The key is to keep the engine loaded. In 5th gear (3.73's) From 40 mph I gradually applied the throttle to 3/4. At 70 mph I gently let off the throttle and let the engine break the car to 40 mph. Again and again...
I did this for the first 800 miles. I did applied WOT a few times, but never "hammered" the pedal or revved over 3500 rpm.
The drawbacks are an horrible gas consumption during the break-in period, other drivers thinking that you don't know how to drive... and you have to resist the urge to "see what it can do"
I applied this method with success to 3 stock engines (3.4L, LT1, LS1) and my current 382.
thanks, i really apreciate the feedback ya'll. As much as the above method of giving it hell is interesting, i fell that this might not aplly to 1. and street mtor and 2., a non, high reving, race piston equipped motor.
I like the driving nowhere idea for the breaking allowing the motor to flux for speeds with load. But since im in a A$, should i keep it 3rd gear? Before, i used to be at 2k going about 65......this isnt enough load right?
wat do ya'll think?
I like the driving nowhere idea for the breaking allowing the motor to flux for speeds with load. But since im in a A$, should i keep it 3rd gear? Before, i used to be at 2k going about 65......this isnt enough load right?
wat do ya'll think?
