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Going bigger displacement, need help!

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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 06:55 PM
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Default Going bigger displacement, need help!

I was thinking either nitrous or a rebuild and big displacement would be the next move for me, and I am pretty sure I have decided to go bigger.

Now, I have a 99 5.3L. I would like to be able to bore it, because the stroker kits for this truck are rediculously high (well, as compared to an old SBC).

I've been told I can have the block resleeved and what not and the I can bore it, but I don't know how all of that works. Can some one please explain the process to me as far as "max boring" a Gen 3 motor?

What am I looking at in terms of cost?
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 07:02 PM
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i really wouldnt reccommend boring a 5.3 block because it can only be bored to the equivalent of a 5.7 liter block.so you may as well get a 5.7 liter block for cheap(there everywhere) and build an entirely separate motor.this way you have no down time because when your done all you have to do is swap in the new motor and you'd save yourself a bunch of money.if you hade the cash you could bore the ls1 block to go bigger if you needed to.a common thing to do is take a 5.7 liter block and swap out the crank to a 4" so you make a 382.hope this helps good luck
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 07:10 PM
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your block is iron, you dont have sleeves. the 5.3 can be bored out to 3.900 and you'll end up w/ a 346.

honestly i'd either look for a 6.0 block and build off that or throw on a magnacharger on your 5.3
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 07:13 PM
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Thanks for the info!

I am just curious as to for just how "cheap" I can get this LS1 block? Cheap as in 350 bucks, or cheap as in about 800? If I couldn't bore the 5.3L, I'ld want a 6L. (I think) The 6L is an iron block, while the 5.7 is aluminum. How much weight savings would there be?

Does the extra revving capabilities and lighter weight provide more advantages then the 20 or so extra cubes?

And you are right, I could use these 5.3L heads on top of that LS1 block....
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 07:19 PM
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~80lbs difference. used ls1 blocks go for 300 - 400 bucks, i've got my 98 block for sale.

"Does the extra revving capabilities and lighter weight provide more advantages then the 20 or so extra cubes?"

of which setup?
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jrp
your block is iron, you dont have sleeves. the 5.3 can be bored out to 3.900 and you'll end up w/ a 346.

honestly i'd either look for a 6.0 block and build off that or throw on a magnacharger on your 5.3
Thanks for the heads up on the sleeve thing!

I can't afford the radix, so I'll have to let that one go.

JRP:
Do you not see an advantage to the lighter LS1 block and higher rev capabilities?

Also.... what are the differences (in terms of material) of the reciprocating components of the 5.3, 5.7, and 6.0? Are the rods, pistons, and crank iron too, or just the block?
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by derek_silvy
Thanks for the heads up on the sleeve thing!

I can't afford the radix, so I'll have to let that one go.

JRP:
Do you not see an advantage to the lighter LS1 block and higher rev capabilities?

Also.... what are the differences (in terms of material) of the reciprocating components of the 5.3, 5.7, and 6.0? Are the rods, pistons, and crank iron too, or just the block?
5.3's use the same stroke as the 5.7/6.0. 5.3's us a 6.275 vs 6.098 for the 5.7/6.0. beyond the size difference i'd wager materials are the same. i do know the LQ9's have a bit beefier rods then the LQ4. dont know how they compare to 5.3/5.7 rods. 5.7's rods got upgraded bolts in late 00 and on 01+. thats off the top of my head.

i wouldnt be so worried about reving capacity as i would low end tq.
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 07:39 PM
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Just curious ---- how much are you selling that LS1 block for? How many miles, etc?

What is truck freight on something like that run? What do those assembled blocks weigh (the LS1) -- 300 pounds?

I don't want it now, but I will be doing something when I get back from basic.
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 07:46 PM
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acctually for discussions sake the iron block 6.0 is 210.4 lbs and the aluminum 5.7 is 92.5 lbs. per gm
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 07:56 PM
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That is assembled or bare block.......

That 92 lbs seems pretty shipable.
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 07:58 PM
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that is bare block
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 08:51 PM
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actually i beg to differ its 107 lbs nothing major but its a tad bit heavier.just had Fedex check cause i have a block being shipped
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 09:09 PM
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Just curious... how far were you shiping and how much did it cost?
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 09:14 PM
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actually im having it shipped from CA to MO,i bought it from BOOSTAT4500 and its getting shipped to a stroker company...hehehe...ummmm let me think i believe shipping on that was $134,it gets pricy shipping blocks around,and can you imagine an iron block!AH!!!
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 09:17 PM
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i know im probably gonna get either hated on or given props but just as an idea i bought my ls6 block for $240 shipped,granted thats with 1 cracked sleeve but since its getting swapped out anyways(bored) it doesnt really matter.you can gettem pretty darn cheap.i know a guy selling the same block with the same crack for $350 shipped,lol
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 11:01 PM
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I paid $85 to have my LS1 short block shipped to me in SoCal from Louisiana.

The company was Central Feight Lines 800-832-8214

Oh, and that was a residential delivery

David
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 11:11 PM
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Not bad, how much did you pay for the block -- so that I may gauge the market.

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Another question:
If I were to go with an LS1 shortblock, could I just slap on my LM7 heads..... I've heard they flow the same as an LS1 head, but just have smaller valves. So, could I just get whatever work I needed done on the heads to accomodate bigger valves, and just benefit from the raised compression? Is that all there is to it?

Last edited by derek_silvy; Feb 15, 2005 at 11:35 PM.
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 01:52 AM
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I paid $300 last in January of 04. At the time they were going for about $500. The block did have a spun bearing, so the crank needed to be replaced.

D
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 09:27 AM
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usually its worth your while to get a block that has something wrong with it since your going to do a buildup anyways you get the block cheaper and just junk or sell the messed up stuff.to be honest i think im getting a awesome deal getting my block fixed.
Resleeve the 1 cracked sleeve
Removing of ALL galley and freeze plugs in the block
Hot Tanking Blocks Overnight
Mag Block For Cracks
Torque Main Caps and Check Line Bore
Run Block Through Steel Abrator ( blocks come out looking new )
Deck Block to 45 Degrees ( Basically A clean up on the deck surface ) Deck Block Plus Or Minus .0002"
Bore Block In CNC Machine
Hone Block In Diamond Hone Machine
Re-Clean Block
Install Cam Bearings , Galley Plugs, And Freeze Plugs
Diamond Honed With Torque Plates
CNC Lined Bored
Clearance For Stroker Kit
=$635
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
actually i beg to differ its 107 lbs nothing major but its a tad bit heavier.just had Fedex check cause i have a block being shipped
i'm not calling u a liar, as i'm sure u aren't calling me one, but i dont know what gm measured, was it block only with no main caps, or was it with main caps. i'm not sure but here is what i have
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