forged aluminum
#1
forged aluminum
i used to think all forged pistons used to be steel but i'm now looking at a pair of forged aluminum pistons
forged aluminum being new to me i'd like to know if they will take a beating
will they last in a 200 shot 7350rpm engine?
any input on forged aluminum would help guys
forged aluminum being new to me i'd like to know if they will take a beating
will they last in a 200 shot 7350rpm engine?
any input on forged aluminum would help guys
#2
TECH Addict
Steel has not been used in pistons for many years with the possible exception of some diesel applications. Virtually all pistons are a lightweight alloy - aluminum, titatanium, etc. and the forged aluminum pistons will handle your build!
#6
TECH Senior Member
Originally Posted by auto_gto
from what i read crank and rods are unbreakable
btw 7200 is the shift rpm but i hate loosing because of cutoff so ill set my cutoff to 7350
btw 7200 is the shift rpm but i hate loosing because of cutoff so ill set my cutoff to 7350
I would never venture into those rpms without at least ARP bolts on my rods and proper ring/pistons. And you also want to spray a 200 shot on top of that
#7
Just because the engine can turn that many rpms doesnt mean it is making any power there. Can you tell us more about what your plans for the engine build is?
True the crank and rods are tough for stock pieces but they are NOT unbreakable.
True the crank and rods are tough for stock pieces but they are NOT unbreakable.
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#8
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by auto_gto
i used to think all forged pistons used to be steel but i'm now looking at a pair of forged aluminum pistons
forged aluminum being new to me i'd like to know if they will take a beating
will they last in a 200 shot 7350rpm engine?
any input on forged aluminum would help guys
forged aluminum being new to me i'd like to know if they will take a beating
will they last in a 200 shot 7350rpm engine?
any input on forged aluminum would help guys
#9
guys i just said stock rods and crank.
bolts: arp
pistons: mahle forged
heads: stage 2 garage made(yes valve seats were cut by a shop) mild overkill with upgraded valvetrain
cam: looking for something around 238/242 on 114lsa
boltons: full exhaust ls6 intake and mti airlid
trans and rearend:my current m6 with a moser 9 inch(i'm talking about my 99 z28)
n2o: can't afford nossle or nxl MPI going with power ring
and a good tune
btw i'm looking for flaws in my plan please find them guys
bolts: arp
pistons: mahle forged
heads: stage 2 garage made(yes valve seats were cut by a shop) mild overkill with upgraded valvetrain
cam: looking for something around 238/242 on 114lsa
boltons: full exhaust ls6 intake and mti airlid
trans and rearend:my current m6 with a moser 9 inch(i'm talking about my 99 z28)
n2o: can't afford nossle or nxl MPI going with power ring
and a good tune
btw i'm looking for flaws in my plan please find them guys
Last edited by auto_gto; 02-28-2005 at 08:17 AM.
#10
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by auto_gto
guys i just said stock rods and crank.
bolts: arp
pistons: mahle forged
heads: stage 2 garage made(yes valve seats were cut but a shop) mild overkill with upgraded valvetrain
cam: looking for something around 238/242 on 114lsa
boltons: full exhaust ls6 intake and mti airlid
trans and rearend:my current m6(its on my 99 z28) with a moser 9 inch
n2o: can't afford nossle or nxl MPI going with power ring
tune:by big G (true expert even does mafless)
btw i'm looking for flaws in my plan please find them guys
bolts: arp
pistons: mahle forged
heads: stage 2 garage made(yes valve seats were cut but a shop) mild overkill with upgraded valvetrain
cam: looking for something around 238/242 on 114lsa
boltons: full exhaust ls6 intake and mti airlid
trans and rearend:my current m6(its on my 99 z28) with a moser 9 inch
n2o: can't afford nossle or nxl MPI going with power ring
tune:by big G (true expert even does mafless)
btw i'm looking for flaws in my plan please find them guys
ditch the stock rods and replace with either eagles (if you don't have money) or Lunati (if you do) and then you are good to go.....stock crank is fine....
#11
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Might consider billet mains as well, looking at the desired rpm level AND nitrous use. But I not sure that cam will make any power at that elevated rpm either, probably drop off closer to 6600rpms, so you'd either want to grind another cam or lower expected revs. I agree stock rods are not Indestructable, crank is different story. Good luck with your project.
Charlie
Charlie