TKhawk01

iTrader: (2)

I have the MS1 and have the limiter set at 6900 and shifts set at 6800. I have bounced off the limiter several times on accident doing burnouts or messing aroud in second and havent had any problems. Its still pulling very strong up there. Oh-yeah I also did the rod bolts just as a precaution. I'll probably set it higher once I get a tuner.

LS1Maniac

I've got the F15 and my rev limiter is set at 7k with a 6.6k shiftlight.

Vortech5300

Damn, you guys got me worried about revving it now. Can you do the rod bolts with the engine still in the car? I bet thats costly but not as much as a blown motor. Its not like i will be beating on it all the time. Actually it will only see the track maybe once or twice a month and maybe a street race here and there so it will not get abused often but when spraying it, then I would be worried about the rod bolts. Especially if it makes 550rwhp.

sevanseriesta

iTrader: (34)

I have the worst luck when it comes to racing cars......I never break at the track I break when I come home from the track. Or for some reason someone puts a clutch plate in crooked and then it never comes out of gear. But after all of that and I installed my cam I decided that I wanted to be safe and shift at 6500. well that was not enough so I started shifting at 6800 and well that was still not enough now I am shifting at 7000. I think that is enough until I replace those rod bolts. I would also like to know how easy would it be to replace the rod bolts

1ScrudeDude

With 224/581/112 and stage 2 heads, I made a discovery.

At first I set my shiftlight at 6300, aiming to do the actual shift at ~6500. Then I said **** it, I want to bump it and get a better trap and better ET.

I then set my shiftlight to 6500, aiming to do the actual shift ~6700. Guess what?

My ET went from 12.2's -12.5's, to 11.9's-12.0's. My traps went from 116-117 to 118-119 (close to 120!).

Now I'm thinking me and my tuner left something on the table, and maybe reset the limiter to 7000

prostock_bigblock

iTrader: (11)

I disagree ,

I am sure on this setup you should`nt reach the 7000 , 6900 must be the max

try to be in the safe side.

rebuilt well cost ****** toooooooooo much.... u know what i am talking about

MUSTANGEATER

iTrader: (10)

There are many people who have spun the bottom end to a high RPM. Everyone will have a different Opinion, since everyone is different and each car is different. My opinion is if you really want to race with it race with it. There are many people on here who have spun the stock shortblock to 7300 and they still haven't let go. If you don't feel safe doing something to your car then don't do it.

sevanseriesta

iTrader: (34)

Very well put. If you worried about breaking something then keep it stock.....That is my moddo

blkZ28spt

Or just be reasonable. Just because you have already modded it doesn't mean you should just go ahead and spin it 1000 rpm higher than chevy intended. You can mod the car, have fun with it, race it, etc without being overly harsh. IMO 7,000+ rpm SBE is overly harsh.

sevanseriesta

iTrader: (34)

so then why buy a cam that will pull all the way till 7200 or 7300 might as well buy a 224 cam.....If someone is asking us where he should rev to and we know where this cam is going to make its power and he does not want to rev that high......Then again Why get it?

Lady Redhawk

iTrader: (6)

Your thinking makes since to me. If you don't want to rev your engine up high, don't get a cam that needs to go high to shine! And really a 224 type cam can really make great power on street and strip without reving so high.

blkZ28spt

Reasons for a big cam: A 224 isn't going to make great power at 6500-6800 RPM...is it? It also won't sound anything like the MS3. If you're like me, your bottom end won't be stock forever. Might as well know what you are going to end up with and avoid redoing as much as possible. Mine is a work in progress, that I've been slowly improving for the nearly four years I've had it, and will continue in that manner. Won't be a daily driver for many more years either. Oh yeah, cams like this like the bottle better than a 224, as well.

1ScrudeDude

My 224 cam peaks at 6400. I was told that a rule of thumb states that one should shift 500 rpms over the peak which puts me at 6900.

But I'm leaving my limiter at 6800.

Vortech5300

Well modding a car for more power and trying to push it to its extreme safe limit are two different things. Its not that I am paranoid about blowing it up under normal performance conditions but $hit, shifting a stock/lightly modded motor at 7k + seems a little extreme. Just because a cam makes power all the way up to that point doesn't mean you have to blow the bottom end out to get every last HP out of it. The reason for running a big cam is not JUST to get big HP at 7k, its to get 20+hp more at 6k then a cheesy 224 with the same stock heads. In reality a 230+ duration cam is gonna make more HP from 4k up then ANYTHING with a 224 duration. Still doesn't mean you have to rev the snot out of it to make an extra 10hp from 6500 to 7200 IMOP. Now if I have a big hole in the low to mid range I can't live with then maybe I will go to a smaller cam but. In reality these things are all freakin turds under 3500 rpms anyway so...

We'll see fellas. TSP didn't ship my stuff out on time so it will be next week before I get it so...I'm pretty irritated that they had everything in stock but it took calling them 2 days later to ship it so...DAMN IT.

1ScrudeDude

My 224 is cheesy??!!

I don't think so. I have no regrets in getting it and head to head races against guys in my local club at the strip produced VERY close finishes against guys with 230-240 ish cams.

My 119.61 trap vs. his 120.52 and a 240+ cam is quite a small difference. His ET was much better due to his slicks and 6000k launch vs. my DRs and a 3500 launch.

Lady Redhawk

iTrader: (6)

Yep, in a lot of setups the 224 can hang with larger cams!! They have better lower end torque a lot of times where you need when you are racing on the strip or street. Dyno numbers aren't everthing.

Vortech5300

You car running near 120mph in the 1/4 ain't got nuthin cheesy about that. That biatch is rolling for sure! Not baggin on 224 cams I guess. Thats probably a better "matched" setup anyway. Everyone has opinions. Only the dyno and strip will tell. If I run anywhere near 119 I will be freakin happy!

1ScrudeDude

Hey it's cool.

I came so close to cracking 120, but it was in a 5-7mph direct headwind. Full weight car, my 215 lb *** and with a 1/2 tank too.

Next time!

Vortech5300

BTW if I dyno tune my car and it only makes 380hp, I will be looking for a Tr224. Ofcourse I will be dynoing with a stock TB, MAF, pulley, bellow pipe but...I want 400hp w/ these stock parts. Hoping anyway. If I can run atleast 115mph I will be satisfied. WEll, not really but....

I had a 99 formula years ago with a 5177 kit spraying 100hp and it would EASILY go 12.10s@117mph on drag radials with 1.95 60's and a slipping stock clutch and that car had a flowmaster muffler, lid and free mods only. I figure it was 410rwhp so hopefully I can match that with the bolts ons/cam only setup on easy launches on DRs.

sevanseriesta

iTrader: (34)

You want 400 out of a 224 cam on stock heads......I am going to say that may not be possible. Maybe spray it and you will be over that # but I honestly do not think that will be possible. Someone please tell me if I am wrong