Crankshaft Pulley will NOT come off
03-14-2005, 06:30 AM
#21
i used to stock bolt to get the pulley started like you, then actually used a couple of old pushrods(bent the first one), but if you're really careful, the pushrod will work to push it off. Just be careful not to bend the sucker! My 3-jaw puller didn't have a long enough rod to bottom out on the crank, so improvision it was! 
Keep the heating, and keep using a impact gun to work that sucker off. You've got it started, it's all downhill from the initial break loose
Keep the heating, and keep using a impact gun to work that sucker off. You've got it started, it's all downhill from the initial break loose
Last edited by tim99ws6; 03-14-2005 at 06:42 AM.
03-14-2005, 10:46 AM
#24
Don't feel like you're the only one right now. When I did my h/c install, I put the stock pulley back on there. Now I've got the front of the engine torn apart to put an underdrive on there. But I can't get the stock pulley off either, and I've only got 1000 miles since I did it the last time.
I've broken 2 pulley pullers thus far: I stripped the threads on the first one, and then broke the hook off of the 2nd one that was beefier than the first. So today I'm going to try heating it up with a torch to see how that goes.
I've broken 2 pulley pullers thus far: I stripped the threads on the first one, and then broke the hook off of the 2nd one that was beefier than the first. So today I'm going to try heating it up with a torch to see how that goes.
03-14-2005, 12:08 PM
#27
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Well i've been calling around all day and no one has the longer bolt. This is pretty ridiculous.
03-14-2005, 12:18 PM
#28
my car is a 98 with 99k miles on it when i took mine off...i used the bolt threaded in 3 turns and pulled it as far is it would go...i then took the bolt out and used a deep socket (big enough to go inside the pulley but NOT inside the crank) then i just started the puller into the socket (the drive end)...this got the pulley off in no time...took me awhile to figure this out though...if you think this is a pain wait till you put it back on...haha...i had to hammer it on untill i could thread the stock bolt back in 2-3 turns...i even put it in the oven for awhile to see if it would be able to slide on...heck no still needed a hammer...good luck
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03-14-2005, 05:17 PM
#32
"The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Two washers stacked works better than just one.
VERY IMPORTANT: Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt. If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort. "
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Not sure of the author; I copied this from a post on 11-06-04
VERY IMPORTANT: Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt. If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort. "
-----------
Not sure of the author; I copied this from a post on 11-06-04
03-14-2005, 05:29 PM
#33
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you are trying to still remove it, correct? Can you go to a cummins tools or something a get a $30 claw puller? Mine has a long *** bolt as part of the tool. In fact, I had never even heard of people using the crank bolt with the puller. That is just crazy sounding to me. Mine has a pointed cap on the bolt end so it never even enters the crank threads. Seriously, $30
03-14-2005, 05:32 PM
#35
"you are trying to still remove it, correct? Can you go to a cummins tools or something a get a $30 claw puller? Mine has a long *** bolt as part of the tool. In fact, I had never even heard of people using the crank bolt with the puller. That is just crazy sounding to me. Mine has a pointed cap on the bolt end so it never even enters the crank threads. Seriously, $30"
That's what I used, only rented from autozone. Came as a kit with the threaded rod and various caps.
That's what I used, only rented from autozone. Came as a kit with the threaded rod and various caps.
03-14-2005, 09:29 PM
#37
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those napa parts are gold when you get to installing the balancer! good looking out Viper. when installing the balancer does anybody actually torque it or just give it everything with the air gun?
03-14-2005, 10:14 PM
#38
Originally Posted by defiftyae
those napa parts are gold when you get to installing the balancer! good looking out Viper. when installing the balancer does anybody actually torque it or just give it everything with the air gun?
1 - Using a longer bolt with washers, seated the pulley as far as I could. Don't torque this down or you can break it off in the crank! Take the bolt out.
2 - Threaded in the old crank bolt. Torque to 240 ft/lbs. Take it out.
3 - Take a NEW crank bolt and put a healthy amount of red locktite on there. GM spec is 37ft/lbs then a full 120deg turn after that. The first time I did my pulley install I found it was about 250ft/lbs on this final pass so that's what I used tonight.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert, I've read alot online though.
03-14-2005, 11:31 PM
#39
Well, after a bit of genius engineering, i got the pulley off today. Due to the fact taht I called NAPA and they said the longer bolt would have to be special ordered (yes, a bolt, special ordered) I sawed the head off of my old crank bolt, cut an aircraft bolt of the same diameter to a length of about 2 inches, then welded the old head -> new aircraft bolt -> old threads, in that order. Now I have a much longer bolt with the same threads and it did the trick. Just ordered an underdrive pulley to play it safe and not use the old one b/c it is pretty F'ed up. Anyways, I'm FINALLY not stuck anymore. But, I don't have a good tool (to reach all springs including the back ones that are hard to get to) to get those damn valve springs compressed. What do you all suggest? Does pep boys or autozone have a good tool for these? I don't have time to order the More tool.
03-15-2005, 10:17 AM
#40
Originally Posted by Derek98z
you are trying to still remove it, correct? Can you go to a cummins tools or something a get a $30 claw puller? Mine has a long *** bolt as part of the tool. In fact, I had never even heard of people using the crank bolt with the puller. That is just crazy sounding to me. Mine has a pointed cap on the bolt end so it never even enters the crank threads. Seriously, $30