Eric Fischer

iTrader: (8)

I found that the 3-arm puller was difficult to use. So I drilled and tapped my hub with three bolt holes so that a traditional balancer puller like this one can be used. It works SO much better than the jaw puller. And since the hub is aluminum it's very easy to drill and tap the holes.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Did you try putting a BIG allen head cap screw into the hole and centering your puller rod in the hex head of the cap screw? You need to put a couple of large flat washers under the head of the cap screw. Just be sure the washers are slightly smaller in diameter than the OD of the crank. This works quite well because the puller rod becomes self-centering when it bucks up against the allen head cap screw. If your pulley requires that much force to remove your doing something wrong. It's an interference fit, but it's not that tight of a fit. The only job it does is spin the A/C comp., water pump, power steering pump and alt. Not exactly high torque loads. The crank pulley bolt should be a lot harder to remove than the pulley itself so check your work very closely if the pulley is giving you more trouble than the bolt did.

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

the problem i was having is when i would go to tighten the puller, the center bolt would rotate downward and eventually coming off of the bolt head

See5

iTrader: (53)

I just drilled a dimple in the old bolt center to locate the puller center shaft.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Sounds like the whole unit is not lined up properly. It should spin straight in and not travel in any direction. Move the jaws to get them equal, the unit cant be leaning in any direction.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Once you saw the puller rod start to walk you should have stopped and ask yourself why is this happening. That puller rod must be FORCED to center itself. It doesn't just stay in the center because you want it to. If you were that lucky you would have already won the Powerball lottery by now. That's why you use the allen head cap screw. The puller bolt is forced to stay in the center of the allen head cap screw. The puller bolt can't walk when you use the cap screw. I use this system everytime I remove the crank sprocket on my LS1s and it works perfect. I also used a chain wrench to keep the crank from rotating as I remove the crank bolt and crank pulley. This is a simple old fashioned tool, but it gets the job done and it's a lot easier than some of the methods that you read about on LS1 Tech like heating up the pulley and cooling down the crankshaft. That's overkill to me when I'm only trying to do something as simple as revmove a crank pulley. Don't make this harder than it has to be. Stop and look closely at what your doing and you'll save yourself a lot of time and headaches in the long run.

FroDaddy

iTrader: (1)

We used a washer that fit in the bolt head lip to center the puller shaft.