INSANE noise from the new lifters
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which pushrods are you using?
you havent answered either of these questions lol
comp r lifters require adjustable rockers(if you used them). stock pushrods are 7.350, not 7.38, thus causing alot more slack in the system with that TR cam on a smaller base circle, which could mean noise.
plus, since you are hearing it everywhere, you MIGHT have not installed the timing chain gears correctly and the valve timing is off ( what LSU might have been hinting at)
give us some more info! are you positive you're calling the different parts by the right name? you do realize you would have had to pull the HEADS to change the lifters, not just the normal stuff for a simple cam swap (no offense if you are just not telling us this stuff
)from what i've read, there is nothing that is directly pointing to it being the lifters that are loud.
comp r lifters require adjustable rockers(if you used them). stock pushrods are 7.350, not 7.38, thus causing alot more slack in the system with that TR cam on a smaller base circle, which could mean noise.
You need to find out what your lifter preload is, torquing the bolts is just not telling you what you need to know. If you don't have a dial indicator to check it properly, you can just use the "1-2 turn" method where you check how many turns of the rocker bolt you get after removing all the free play (make sure the cam/lifter is on the base circle when you check) There are lots of threads in the archive that describe how to do it.
FYI, my 03 LS1 pushrods measure 7.400", and every stock length I've seen outside of internet forums says they are 7.4". Check the websites for Manley, Comp, SDPC, etc., they all say 7.4" stock. I mic's mine and that's what they were.

i have always (from the research i've done) thought the stockers were 7.350, i guess i'll go measure my old ones in a little while.
after i tore my motor down to the shortblock to replace the lifters, i re-assembled it and it wasnt runinng worth a ****. knocking and missing and shaking when revved, but idling relativly smooth. my entire passengerside cylinder bank coil packs were getting no power. check all your fuses, its freeeeeee and might solve your problems. if you're standing beside the drivers front fender, you will see two fuse boxes, the one on the left is the one you need to open. check the top left fuse (mine was blown, and fuse box cover sticker is so screwed i couldnt read it to tell what i was checking
). if it's OK, check all the rest of them before you start going nuts
I did an x1 cam...(larger than all the 224 cams) and I did not have any lifter problems
and I know several people that have done WAY larger...and are still using stock lifters on way more lift..and way more agressive ramp rates...and lots of miles on the clock...
ok...back to the real questioning
What was your method of torqing to 22 ft lbs....
did you use a torque wrench?? or did you measure by do the Trhead count method???
some torque wrenches are hard to read...and you get the #'s off...and you do it wrong...and you would get lots of noise..
ALSO...
one quick test for you... find out exactly which cylinders are really making all the noise...use a screw drive/stethescope..or the more $ mechanics version....
with the engine running...pull the spark plug wire...IF it stops making noise...you might have a spun bearing...or maybe a couple of them....might have gotten a piece of metal in there somehow...and it might have chewed up bearings....
if you pulled the fuel fuse and it did the same thing...got quiet with no fuel...then that is another indication of possible spun bearing(s)
also...could just be a tuning issue....Might be Knock or worse..pre-detonation...would make that same horrible racket..and would go away without fuel





