What Would Be The Difference W/ These 408 Setups?
What Would Be The Difference W/ These 408 Setups? Setting up a 408 for mostly n/a, some nitrous, probably 150-200, 300 if I get greedy. Besides price, what about strength:
Callies 4.00" Racemaster crank
-Manley 6.125" billet rods.
-Diamond pistons w\rings
-Fedearl Mogal bearings
-ARP main studs
or
Eagle 4.0 strock crank
Eagle 6.125 H-Beam rods
Mahle forged Pistons
Federal Mogul race bearings
ARP main studs
Callies 4.00" Racemaster crank
-Manley 6.125" billet rods.
-Diamond pistons w\rings
-Fedearl Mogal bearings
-ARP main studs
or
Eagle 4.0 strock crank
Eagle 6.125 H-Beam rods
Mahle forged Pistons
Federal Mogul race bearings
ARP main studs
I'd go with the eagle stuff, doesn't weigh much more and it is virtually just as strong. I am going with the same setup (eagle) from APE and i'll be spraying 300 DP, and I was told that the motor could take that all day long without problems.
-Steve
-Steve
sorry boneSS boneSS sorry to kinda hijack the thread but i actually have a related question and dont want to overload the site with a million threads.
So here is the question, what is everyones feelings on the iron 6.0 block? is it a bad idea? also what about a 4.125in stroke, i figure that they make the crank why not use it, i understand the side loading on the pistons is worse with that crank and a 4.030 bore,however is it so bad that using that crank is a bad idea?
Thanks
louie
So here is the question, what is everyones feelings on the iron 6.0 block? is it a bad idea? also what about a 4.125in stroke, i figure that they make the crank why not use it, i understand the side loading on the pistons is worse with that crank and a 4.030 bore,however is it so bad that using that crank is a bad idea?
Thanks
louie
Callies 4.000" Stroke Forged Crankshaft
Callies Ls1 Forged H Beam Rods (ls1 Specific)
Diamond Forged Pistons
Diamond 4130 Chromemoly Wrist Pins
Diamond Proselect Ring Set (file Fit)
Federal Mogul Main Bearings (152m)
Clevite Connecting Rod Bearings (cb663h)
Arp Main Studs
Arp Head Studs
Callies Ls1 Forged H Beam Rods (ls1 Specific)
Diamond Forged Pistons
Diamond 4130 Chromemoly Wrist Pins
Diamond Proselect Ring Set (file Fit)
Federal Mogul Main Bearings (152m)
Clevite Connecting Rod Bearings (cb663h)
Arp Main Studs
Arp Head Studs
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I went with the Callies crank and eagle rods. I'm sure you can swap some stuff up if you want, but the major price diffrence will be in the cranks. If it was N/A, I'd go eagle, but for nitrous, I wanted the piece of mind.
The upgraded callies rods are quite a bit more expensive then the callies comp star rods too. They are both ls1 specific. I believe the comp star rods are made over sees but don't quote me on that. Nick or Chris @ APE can chime in on this.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 720
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From: So Cal
Originally Posted by BoneSS
Thanks guys, keep the input coming...
LOL that 8k is burning a hole isnt it.
I thought you said earlier in the other thread that you didn't want nitrous>? I just curious as to why you changed your mind. 
Fastest set up for the cash? If so then you got it right. BE prepared to buy nitrous every other week though.
Take Care. And good luck.
I thought if I was going to build a 408, I might as well build it strong enough for either nitrous or fi while I was doing it b/c I know I will get bored. It is deciding the nitrous or fi route that is the hardest thing. I have more than this allowed in the budget, but I don't know where to go w/ it and if I want to go w/ this much in my car anyway. Pretty close to deciding to put the money into the car though. Nothing else to spend it on
Knock on wood.
Knock on wood. TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 720
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From: So Cal
Originally Posted by BoneSS
I thought if I was going to build a 408, I might as well build it strong enough for either nitrous or fi while I was doing it b/c I know I will get bored. It is deciding the nitrous or fi route that is the hardest thing. I have more than this allowed in the budget, but I don't know where to go w/ it and if I want to go w/ this much in my car anyway. Pretty close to deciding to put the money into the car though. Nothing else to spend it on Knock on wood.
Knock on wood.If you go with the 408, I doubt you would have enough to boost it (properly)afterward, and if you build it for boost you will use a lower comp piston so nitrous wont do you much good if you can't afford a blower first.
You would have enough for a cheap forged 347 built for boost, and a few choices of FI method. Even that will be close when its all said and done.
Or you could do the built 408 with a higher compression with a big shot on it for fun. However, a 12 bolt or 9" would be even more of a priority.
Just think about how you drive, and what would be the most fun to get behind the wheel of every time you want your adrenaline fix.
Thanks for the advise! I'm just trying to get some prices on everything now. It might be best for me to build a 346, sell my present oen (has 30k on it) and get a PTK or Phamspeed kit.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Detroit,MI
Allow me to shed some light. The Eagle Products are very good, both rods and cranks. We have gone to using the Compstar as our go to LS1 rod simply because it is an LS1 Specific H-Beam. We have built countless 408 engines with Eagle Cranks and Compstar rods and not one of them have had issues. We have heard of power numbers closing in on 900rwhp and not one sign of fatigue in the parts or loss of performance.
With that being said the Callies Racemaster cranks are also very nice. While they are slightly lighter, that isn't their main selling feature. The counterweights are knife edged, the heat treat of the crank is more severe, and over all it is just built physically stronger. In short it is built to withstand whatever you can throw at it. A calssic situation of getting what you pay for.
Not to get too deep on the issue of 4.125 stroke Iron 422ci Engines. There are a few reasons why this isn't the most advisable idea. First and foremost you limit yourself on piston selection, of course it has to be a custom piston anyway. Your Compression Distance is very short for one, just barely over an inch. Outside of the fact that you won't have as much material through the top of the piston, there are also piston to valve issues to consider. Feel free to give a call at the shop or PM me if you'd like to get into this further. Oddly enough, the Iron block requires no counterweight clearancing with the 4.125 arm. I was shocked.
Hope that gives you both some insight into the motors you are considering. If I can be of any further service feel free to give a call at the shop.
With that being said the Callies Racemaster cranks are also very nice. While they are slightly lighter, that isn't their main selling feature. The counterweights are knife edged, the heat treat of the crank is more severe, and over all it is just built physically stronger. In short it is built to withstand whatever you can throw at it. A calssic situation of getting what you pay for.
Not to get too deep on the issue of 4.125 stroke Iron 422ci Engines. There are a few reasons why this isn't the most advisable idea. First and foremost you limit yourself on piston selection, of course it has to be a custom piston anyway. Your Compression Distance is very short for one, just barely over an inch. Outside of the fact that you won't have as much material through the top of the piston, there are also piston to valve issues to consider. Feel free to give a call at the shop or PM me if you'd like to get into this further. Oddly enough, the Iron block requires no counterweight clearancing with the 4.125 arm. I was shocked.
Hope that gives you both some insight into the motors you are considering. If I can be of any further service feel free to give a call at the shop.
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From: Grove City Ohio/Port Washington L.I sometimes
Originally Posted by Nick@AP-Engineering
With that being said the Callies Racemaster cranks are also very nice. While they are slightly lighter, that isn't their main selling feature. The counterweights are knife edged, the heat treat of the crank is more severe, and over all it is just built physically stronger. In short it is built to withstand whatever you can throw at it. A calssic situation of getting what you pay fo
The Magnum XL weighs 44 lbs instead of the regular 51-52 lbs.We're using one in my turbo engine.
