Pen Magnets for cam swap
#23
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If I was going to do it again, I would make a set of rods, but I used pen magnets the first time and it worked perfectly, so I have no problem recommending that method. Of course I checked and rechecked to make sure that the magnets were securely attached.
The story behind the story is that I had bought the JPR tool and I was able to get the driver's side rod in okay, but the passenger side would only go in halfway, so I ended up only needing 6 pen magnets. And these pen magnets saved my butt so I have sentimental feelings toward them because the JPR Tool left me basically f***** and the lowly pen magnets saved my ***.
Okay, I've come clean, and now I feel better.
The story behind the story is that I had bought the JPR tool and I was able to get the driver's side rod in okay, but the passenger side would only go in halfway, so I ended up only needing 6 pen magnets. And these pen magnets saved my butt so I have sentimental feelings toward them because the JPR Tool left me basically f***** and the lowly pen magnets saved my ***.
Okay, I've come clean, and now I feel better.
#24
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I would use the dowels wooden or metal , it would be much safer than cheap pen magnets . I have tried fishing droped parts out of motors with a cheap pen magnet only to have the magnet end and the part still inside!!!
#25
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Originally Posted by Predator
The JPR rods are about 80 bucks, 16 pen magnets about 32 bucks. Plus you can reuse them if you ever decide to change cams again. And pen magnets come in handy around the garage for other uses.
What happens if you snap the end off a wooden dowel, you're f******. I'd use a homemade metal or aluminum rods before a wooden dowel.
M-I-C-K-E-Y M-O-U-S-E
What happens if you snap the end off a wooden dowel, you're f******. I'd use a homemade metal or aluminum rods before a wooden dowel.
M-I-C-K-E-Y M-O-U-S-E
He said 5-7 bucks a peice for the fancy wrapping. 7x16= 112. 5x16= 80
Also wooden dowels work fine. There isnt any pressure on the rod. Its a catch all in case the lifter slips down. The lifter isnt going to be driven down with any force. It wont break. The true mickey method here is the pen magent, but it will work. You do need one could telescoping magnet for the keepers and as a retrieval tool for any thing dropped
#26
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Originally Posted by Predator
If I was going to do it again, I would make a set of rods, but I used pen magnets the first time and it worked perfectly, so I have no problem recommending that method. Of course I checked and rechecked to make sure that the magnets were securely attached.
The story behind the story is that I had bought the JPR tool and I was able to get the driver's side rod in okay, but the passenger side would only go in halfway, so I ended up only needing 6 pen magnets. And these pen magnets saved my butt so I have sentimental feelings toward them because the JPR Tool left me basically f***** and the lowly pen magnets saved my ***.
Okay, I've come clean, and now I feel better.
The story behind the story is that I had bought the JPR tool and I was able to get the driver's side rod in okay, but the passenger side would only go in halfway, so I ended up only needing 6 pen magnets. And these pen magnets saved my butt so I have sentimental feelings toward them because the JPR Tool left me basically f***** and the lowly pen magnets saved my ***.
Okay, I've come clean, and now I feel better.
#27
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You don't think I spun the **** out of my stock cam??? The JPR Tool wasn't hitting lifters. Certain years, the tool works okay, from what I've heard. Jmx had no problem with his '99 and the JPR Tool. 2k is a different story.
#28
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The key is that the dowel (wood or steel) should fit snug. And you wouldn't want the dowel to be warped at all. If you used a warped wood dowel that didn't fit real tight, I could see a lifter sneaking past. I used home made steel rods but on the left side I used a smaller sized rod wrapped with velcro. Both sides fit very snug.
#29
Originally Posted by Predator
The JPR rods are about 80 bucks, 16 pen magnets about 32 bucks. Plus you can reuse them if you ever decide to change cams again. And pen magnets come in handy around the garage for other uses.
What happens if you snap the end off a wooden dowel, you're f******. I'd use a homemade metal or aluminum rods before a wooden dowel.
M-I-C-K-E-Y M-O-U-S-E
What happens if you snap the end off a wooden dowel, you're f******. I'd use a homemade metal or aluminum rods before a wooden dowel.
M-I-C-K-E-Y M-O-U-S-E
#30
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Originally Posted by 01SSDRVR
You would have to be a jackass to snap the end off the wooden dowel when it was in there. Your the only mickey mouse for wasting your money on those pen magnets. Know your **** before you start talking it.
#31
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I had the telescoping type magnet for retrieval. I believe it came from Comp Cams when they delivered the titanium retainers and super locks and was a freebee. I'm sure glad I had it, used it quite a bit to remove the locks and anything that fell, which happened alot too. I went over the "how to" posted online through this website and figured I would have a fallen lifter during the swap. I loosened my valvetrain enough to remove all the stock pushrods that were being replaced anyway, spun the cam and removed it. I didn't have an issue with a lifter falling, they all stayed nicely in their retainers, although I was prepared for it just in case. The Will Handzel book indicates that the lifters will not stay up forever, so to do the swap rather sooner than later. When I inserted the new pushrods, I was surprised at the pressure the retainers held the lifters up. Wasn't even an issue for me, but I know it happens.
#32
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Originally Posted by 01SSDRVR
You would have to be a jackass to snap the end off the wooden dowel when it was in there. Your the only mickey mouse for wasting your money on those pen magnets. Know your **** before you start talking it.