New to the forums, been reading them for a while now though.


Anyway, '02 WS6 TA M6. Put on some LT's today and now it won't start, and doesn't even sputter like it's trying to start. I also replaced the plugs today with some NGK TR55's gapped to .040 (I'm thinking I should go larger, however, that shouldn't cause it not to start). I pulled one of the plugs after trying to start it for a while and it didn't have any fuel on it at all, and didn't smell like it had been near it. I connected it back to its coil and rested it on the chassis then turned the engine over.. no spark. Could've been a poor ground, but whatever. Pump primes and rails get pressure and gauges POST, but nothing. I checked the PCM fuses and all of them are good. I pulled the batt for a few hours while I was working, but that also shouldn't be an issue.

Security light stays off during cranking, but this sure does seem like some kind of security problem. No injector pulse and no ignition. I'd never had any trouble with it of any kind before this.

Help?

 

did you unplug anything but the o2s when you changed the headers?

 

Start by checking that all electrical connections are plugged in tightly. Also check that the crank sensor is plugged in and ok on the passanger side right by the starter. Gap on the plugs should be about .050. Check that grounds are connected.

 

sounds like something was accidentally unplugged, If you did not even smell gas I wonder if you somehow pulled the injector fuse although I don't see how on a header install.

 

did you happen to take the coil packs off for the header install? if so....did you plug them back in?

 

Gotta be coil packs or the starter wire isn't connected.

 

I checked all the fuses and power is good across all of them. I didn't unplug the coil packs, though I checked that anyway since that's what it seemed like and those connections were still good. I *did* pull the battery for a few hours, but other than that, the starter, and the O2's that's all I pulled. I'm going to try and poke around the cam and crank position sensor wires to try and see if they somehow got messed up.

I pulled the batt again and have let it sit overnight, I'll see how that goes.

 

What kind of longtubes? I can see a possible problem if they are SLP's since you have to stretch the wires on tha pass side.

 

Dynatech LT's. I ended up not using extensions, just removed the connectors from their holders and used up extra slack. On the driver's side I had to seperate the engine ground strap from the harness a bit (pulled it out of the tape/sheath a bit), but the ground still remains connected to the engine.

 

Is there a way to test the crank position sensor? It's the only thing I can find that would cause both fuel (injector pulse) and spark to go away all at once. It shows continuity across the terminals, but I don't know what it should read.