natural aspiration
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 40
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From: northern california
natural aspiration i have decided to go NA but am having trouble finding the place in which i should buy my parts and is there any particular order i should go in as far upgrading the engine
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 40
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From: northern california
Originally Posted by Cal
There's a lot of options; it depends on how much streetability you want to give up, and whether you need to retain emissions status.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 249
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From: Cary, NC/University Heights, OH
What state do you live in and do you need to adhere to state emission requirements? 400 hp to the ground is easy and the different paths you can take vary.
As for where to buy from? All of your sponsors on the right are excellent and many many have what you are looking for.
As for where to buy from? All of your sponsors on the right are excellent and many many have what you are looking for.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 40
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From: northern california
Originally Posted by Jimm
What state do you live in and do you need to adhere to state emission requirements? 400 hp to the ground is easy and the different paths you can take vary.
As for where to buy from? All of your sponsors on the right are excellent and many many have what you are looking for.
As for where to buy from? All of your sponsors on the right are excellent and many many have what you are looking for.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: northern california
Originally Posted by Cal
OK, then the TR224 on a 114 LSA is your cam.
Originally Posted by treydies
cal, i'm a little bit of a newbie here and with ls1 engines. i was in the air force fixing planes so all the lingo and numbers are still spanish to me would you mind explaining it?
LS1 fbody engines have a truck cam that is a bottle neck in an otherwise awesome engine, so LS1's respond very well to cam upgrades.
TR224 is a cam offered by Thunder Racing that is VERY proven around here (with LS1Tech people) I ran one for a couple of years. It's the biggest cam that will pass smog in Cali without going to extreme measures. You will stil need a pcm tune, however. Specs are 224 degrees duration on both intake and exhaust, 0.563 inch lift on both intake and exhaust. They offer it ground on both a 112 LSA and 114 LSA (Lobe Separtion Angle) The 114 LSA version has a smoother idle and lower emissions, but power comes on 200 rpm later. Go with the 112 if you don't mind working a little harder to pass emissions. You will need a set of Comp 918 valve springs to go with this cam and most other LS1 cams.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
From: Cary, NC/University Heights, OH
That's the model of the cam he's suggesting.
TR224 - Thunder Racing (sponsor on the right) 224 duration cam...the lower the duration the more emission friendly
114 LSA - more emission friendly than the 112 LSA
on camshaft info - http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
TR224 - Thunder Racing (sponsor on the right) 224 duration cam...the lower the duration the more emission friendly
114 LSA - more emission friendly than the 112 LSA
on camshaft info - http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
Originally Posted by treydies
well my car is an everyday driver and i would like to keep some streetabilty and i would like to put 400 horsepower to the ground...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: northern california
Originally Posted by Cal
I love planes, and I work for the air force myself! (Civilian)
LS1 fbody engines have a truck cam that is a bottle neck in an otherwise awesome engine, so LS1's respond very well to cam upgrades.
TR224 is a cam offered by Thunder Racing that is VERY proven around here (with LS1Tech people) I ran one for a couple of years. It's the biggest cam that will pass smog in Cali without going to extreme measures. You will stil need a pcm tune, however. Specs are 224 degrees duration on both intake and exhaust, 0.563 inch lift on both intake and exhaust. They offer it ground on both a 112 LSA and 114 LSA (Lobe Separtion Angle) The 114 LSA version has a smoother idle and lower emissions, but power comes on 200 rpm later. Go with the 112 if you don't mind working a little harder to pass emissions. You will need a set of Comp 918 valve springs to go with this cam and most other LS1 cams.
LS1 fbody engines have a truck cam that is a bottle neck in an otherwise awesome engine, so LS1's respond very well to cam upgrades.
TR224 is a cam offered by Thunder Racing that is VERY proven around here (with LS1Tech people) I ran one for a couple of years. It's the biggest cam that will pass smog in Cali without going to extreme measures. You will stil need a pcm tune, however. Specs are 224 degrees duration on both intake and exhaust, 0.563 inch lift on both intake and exhaust. They offer it ground on both a 112 LSA and 114 LSA (Lobe Separtion Angle) The 114 LSA version has a smoother idle and lower emissions, but power comes on 200 rpm later. Go with the 112 if you don't mind working a little harder to pass emissions. You will need a set of Comp 918 valve springs to go with this cam and most other LS1 cams.
I design test stands for testing changes made to F-16 aircraft flight software.
As for heads, there are a lot of choices depending on how much money you want to spend. The cheapest would be to home-port your own heads and retain the stock valves, or you could spend $3000 on the best heads with bigger valves. You can pick up 20 to 40 hp on heads alone.
For more information on LS1's and fbodys, just keep reading on this forum, you've come to the right place. I'll answer more questions though, if you have specific things you want to know. If I don't know the answer, somebody else on here will. I've driven fbodys my whole life, starting out with the '67 models, but hey, I don't know everything.
As for heads, there are a lot of choices depending on how much money you want to spend. The cheapest would be to home-port your own heads and retain the stock valves, or you could spend $3000 on the best heads with bigger valves. You can pick up 20 to 40 hp on heads alone.
For more information on LS1's and fbodys, just keep reading on this forum, you've come to the right place. I'll answer more questions though, if you have specific things you want to know. If I don't know the answer, somebody else on here will. I've driven fbodys my whole life, starting out with the '67 models, but hey, I don't know everything.
