KB99WS6

iTrader: (6)

Doing H/C (AS stg 2 heads/TR224) which should put me about 420-440rwhp and will probably eventually add a 100 shot on top of that, should I replace pistons & rods while i am having the H/C install? Anything else I should do while I am on there? (besides T-chain and oil pump). i want the car to be an easy reliable daily driver, but with the ability to really moved if called upon.
Thanks,
kevin

beardWS6

iTrader: (1)

I have H/C and 150 shot with stock bottom. Should be fine! Make sure your fuel system is up to the task, all the bolt on`s. Make dang sure your tune is good for the spray. Then just get ready to have fun!! Good Luck. You can see in my sig what I have and I get alittle over 600rwhp with 150 shot on stock bottom. I LOVE IT!!!!!

KB99WS6

iTrader: (6)

so I would just need a better fuel pump and larger injectors? Anything else?

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Not trying to intrude on your thread, but here you go.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showt...d=1#post2700591

Even if you have no interest in what I am selling I would still suggest if you have the money to forged the shortblock.
It will save you headaches in the future.
Also something like I have will allow for a larger camshaft without P/V problems, has coated pistons which will defentially help with the Nitrous. What I am selling is a little extreem for most guys, however if you buy it and resell your shortblock for 850-1000 bicks your only out 2500 more dollars and you can have the motor at your house in 1 week.
Anyways check it out, if it's to built for what your looking at I still suggest changing the pistons/rods/rings/rod bolts,etc, plus there is machine work that will be needed.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Howdy, Kevin.

People have been doing H/C swaps since the LS1's inception, generally without problems. There are hundreds if not thousands of h/c cars out there running stock bottom end. Swapping the timing chain and oil pump are part of the price of admission. If you want a little more piece of mind, you can install ARP rod bolts. Some people have done this with the engine still in the car, but it requires jacking up the engine, removing the K member and the oil pan, which im sure is no easy task.

KB99WS6

iTrader: (6)

Hey Tony, I decided I am just doing the usual general install, simply b/c I didn't realize how involved it was to change things like the pistons, rods and/or rod bolts. Plus I am not even sure I will ever add the 100 shot, just trying to think ahead and get as much done as I can while I was in their type of thing, but those other things involve a lot more work, its not like the timing chain and oil pump thing. I am trying to make a list of everything I need. here is what I have so far, let me know if I am missing anything...
-heads & cam (obviously)
-TR hardened 7.400 pushrods
-SVO 30lb injectors (I think my stockers are only like 26#'s)
-New oil pump & Timing chain
-ARP head bolts & head gaskets (I still have to figure out which head gaskets to get).

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

If youre going to plan on doing more than one head swap, get the ARP head studs. If you dont plan on doing multiple head swaps, save the cash and buy new GM TTY bolts. People also routinely recomment GM MLS head gaskets, as theyre quite suitable for h/c applications. Also, those injectors are not necessary quite yet. Id wait till after doing the swap to find out wether or not youll need new injectors, since theyre easily replaced afterwards. The 26# may just cut it, or you could always buy some used 28# injectors, commonly sold for 50-100 bucks. If you install a 100+ dryshot on top, then maybe you could use injectors, but until that happens, why spend the cash.

Youll also need these if your buying gaskets individually:
Front Engine Seal
Front cover gasket
2 Water Pump Gaskets
Oil Pump O Ring
Some extra Valve spring keeper locks
Crank Bolt

You couls also get a head/cam bolt and gasket kit from a sponsor that should come with everything you need for the h/c swap.

KB99WS6

iTrader: (6)

Hmm, maybe I'll just get some 28#'s than for the time being...

Yeah its probably best if I just buy one of those heads/cam install kits from Thunder racing. Geez, thats another $250...this really adds up. Some people think heads cam, hmm I can do that for under $1500 buying used but when you are done factoring in everything its a LOT more!

ONGRNGO

Get the SVO 30#s if you are going to upgrade injectors, they won't be to big, plus once you get it tuned it will be fine. And you will want to 30#s if you spray.

Dan

KB99WS6

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I've seen them slightly used for around $150 so thats not too bad. Should probably just pay the extra $50-$75 and be done with it, I just wanted to make sure they wouldn't be too big for just running the h/c setup to where it would hurt performance and/or gas mileage...

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Any change in fuel injector will require a tune (other than 26 to 28 stockers ofcourse). So long as youre planning on tuning, no injector is too big, however if you go ultra huge, the PCMs control over the injector becomes more coarse, and you may have some issues idling, but i wouldnt worry about that till you went with something 42# or bigger (which acts as 56# in our 4-bar engines).

KB99WS6

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I'll definitely have to get a tune after the h/c install anyway, so I guess as long as I can get a good deal on some SVO 30lbers I'll probably just go with those....unlessof course I see some really cheap 28lbers or something, lol.

BBQLS1

I'd run the stock short block and slowly build a better one and then switch the H/C over when I either needed to or wanted to. You will probably be fine as long as you get enough fuel and don't spray all the time.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Theres a 12 LB difference between 28# and 30# injectors. Dont worry, Ill explain. Our injectors are rated at 4 bar of fuel pressure, or 58 pounds of fuel pressure. Most if not all aftermarket injectors are rated at 3 bar or 44 LB of fuel pressure. if you run an aftermarket 3 bar injector in our engine 4 bar fuel rail, it will theoretically flow 33% more fuel. So while a stock 28 LB injector still flows 28 LBs, those 30 LB SVOs are going to flow 40 LBs or so ( 3:4 ratio ).

This is just to show you the difference between upgrading from 26 to 28, or upgrading from 26 to 40 (30# SVO). Really isnt much of an upgrade to only go to 28s, unless the 26ers are right on the verge and you can get 28s damn cheap, which you can.

-T

KB99WS6

iTrader: (6)

Yeah someone else had previously mentioned that to me, but thanks for the detailed explanation. You get your F13 yet?

I still not sure what to do about the install on my H/C. I got two quotes from two shops, one was $950 and than other was $1000...and they both quoted a tune of about $450 on top of that.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

I didnt get it yet... not sure if it shipped yet. I dont want to bust futrals' ***** since im not planning on doing the swap for another month or two.

Id say do the swap in your new garage. Youve got a daily beater still, right? If so youre not under any pressure to get it done in a day or two. You can take your time, save your cash and feel good about spinning your own wrenches. When it comes time to tune, find someone else to go in with you on HPTuners (500 for 2 licenses). Ill definately be around to give you a hand, and this way youve got $1200 saved bucks to put towards a 12 bolt when you grenade your 10 bolt.

KB99WS6

iTrader: (6)

Yeah I hear you I'm just really nervous about doing it, I just think I'd be totally lost due to a complete lack of experience.

you're right though...I know I'd feel really good about it afterwards if all went well though...

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Youve got hundreds of h/c swaps worth of experience riding in that JMX howto we all know and love. (well atleast its been used hundreds of times). There really are only a couple of tricky parts where you can really **** up.

Dropping the oil pump pickup tube bolt.
Timing dots lined up.
coolant in the blind head bolt holes.
Threading the pulley back on.

Even these tricky parts are relatively easy as long as youre careful and you double and triple check yourself. You dont even need to do the most nerve racking part, the TDC method of holding up the valves. And ive got the JRP tools from a friend, not that youd have to worry about dropping a lifter with the heads off anyway.... Dont be intimidated.