Something may be wrong. Dyno inside
Something may be wrong. Dyno inside 
Mods
12 bolt 4.33
Fast 90/90
Fm 13 230/232 110 +4
old crane 832 shimmed .030
7.4 PR takes 1/4 turn to 22 ft/lbs on the stock rockers
Car run 12.0@114 on a good day
Any ideas about the dips from 3.5k to 4.2k
This weekend i am retarding the cam 4* because it just flat out sucks on the top end right now
Those 106 icl cams fall off FAST. That's one reason I hate my F15.. it it was on a 113 straight up, it would carry out better. BUT I think your biggest problem is valve float. Stick a new "good" set of springs in there.
Your dip may be due to tuning.. do you have the A/F graph?
Your dip may be due to tuning.. do you have the A/F graph?
Originally Posted by gomer
Those 106 icl cams fall off FAST. That's one reason I hate my F15.. it it was on a 113 straight up, it would carry out better. BUT I think your biggest problem is valve float. Stick a new "good" set of springs in there.
Your dip may be due to tuning.. do you have the A/F graph?
Your dip may be due to tuning.. do you have the A/F graph?
VF even with the graph being so steady up top?
thats tight lobe cam stuff, the dips are in the tune, you can help them but they liekly wont go "away" but you should be able to keep it from losing power there with a good tune.
Originally Posted by HumpinSS
No. My WB was on the fricken fritz today
so you are tuning on wideband on the street??? on the dyno??? or just off of an o2 in the car on the dyno??? or what??
If your wideband was on the fritz...then maybe you can fix it by fixing the A/F
IF you did not smooth out the tables between each pass....you might have a very jagged table...it needs to be smooth.....if it looks like the rocky mountains...then it is wrong from what I have been told.... it should look like a rolling hill...
post an A/F chart so we can see what the deal is.... I am really leaning towards this as your culprit....
also...doing the tuning yourself or is somebody else doing the tuning on it...
also possible knock retard in those places...show some logs so we can see whats really going on
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
so you are tuning on wideband on the street??? on the dyno??? or just off of an o2 in the car on the dyno??? or what??
If your wideband was on the fritz...then maybe you can fix it by fixing the A/F
IF you did not smooth out the tables between each pass....you might have a very jagged table...it needs to be smooth.....if it looks like the rocky mountains...then it is wrong from what I have been told.... it should look like a rolling hill...
post an A/F chart so we can see what the deal is.... I am really leaning towards this as your culprit....
also...doing the tuning yourself or is somebody else doing the tuning on it...
224-117.6 and I wasnt finished
230/236-119.6
So tuning on my side isnt the issue
also possible knock retard in those places...show some logs so we can see whats really going on
Nope no KR. I am gonna take a look at the timming tables to see if anythig is apparent.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions
just like gomer said. that low icl drops quick. so what was suggested to me by FMS was not to set the F15 dot to dot. but to degree it in so it is at 110. o well just my 2 cents.
He is also only running 1/4 to 1/5 turn of preload on stock lifters as well as crane duals shimmed .030". He sais he has no noise in the valve train though. Considering his cam closes the intake valve at 41 ABDC at .050" lift and my old 117 mph 224/224 106icl 110lsa cam closed the intake valve at 38 ABDC I don't think his IVC is the issue (we were similar race weight to and he has more gear). I think it is springs or preload. Also, Larry lean that thing out. You should be around the 13.0 to 1 a/f range and just a little richer at 4400-4800rpm (12.8 to 1).
I am gonna lean it out and it will defiantely make a little more power. how much I dont know but i allready setup the table for it to run 13:1
AU you know better than to ask me if I run a maf
AU you know better than to ask me if I run a maf
depending on the cam and weight of the car, leaning it out may help or hurt its not going to pick up much power by leaning it out. Depending on when you did the preload retard them, then put a little more preload on the lifters. They are old factory stockers right
Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
depending on the cam and weight of the car, leaning it out may help or hurt its not going to pick up much power by leaning it out. Depending on when you did the preload retard them, then put a little more preload on the lifters. They are old factory stockers right
I sent an email to Futral two days ago and he hasnt responded about the base circle and the length of the PR to be used. Yes they are the factory stockers.
Dumb question
But the way hyd lifters work can you really set preload on em. I mean all you are doing is pushing the plunger further down into the bore of the lifter, so what are you actually preloading. Moving the plunger down in the bore can poosibly cause high rpm pump up...
But the way hyd lifters work can you really set preload on em. I mean all you are doing is pushing the plunger further down into the bore of the lifter, so what are you actually preloading. Moving the plunger down in the bore can poosibly cause high rpm pump up...
Email answered
1\4 turn is what we like to get to get good upper RPMs from a setup.
Sounds
like you have stock heads,so a set of 7.450" is what you will need if you
are wanting to get the prload back to stock 1-1.5 turns. Just make sure they
get 22 ftlbs.
Sounds
like you have stock heads,so a set of 7.450" is what you will need if you
are wanting to get the prload back to stock 1-1.5 turns. Just make sure they
get 22 ftlbs.