Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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thinkin bout building an engine

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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 03:06 PM
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i have the oppertunity to get an LS1 block for about 200 bucks and was wondering if it would be a good platform to build a forged 346 or a stroker. the # 7 rod nicked the wall and the block would need to be resleeved anyways so i figured i could build it up (maybe bore it out??). im not sure how many miles are on the block but it is bare except the front cover and maybe some misc. parts. what do ya'll think about it. should i go for it and built it up now or save it and wait for my engine now to take a nose dive?? im not sure what to do or how much i would be putting into it so anyone let me know what i would be getting myself into.
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 07:50 PM
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should i post this somewhere else??
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 08:02 PM
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You should sell me that block for $200 DO you have a pic of the ding? if its at the very bottom you might be ok with just a .004" hone. Check the block for the year. if it is 2000 + you should be able to go .010" over. if you are looking at resleeving, you might as well go with something like a 408 or 427. I really wish I would have built that 427 instead of the 396 that I am building.

David
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 08:55 PM
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could i bore out the block and resleeve it to make it a 427?? i didnt think you could do that with the ls1 block. dont u need the 6.0L block?? and by all means correct me if im wrong. and what would the rough cost be to do that? i imagine a lot!!

Last edited by CATCH ME; Apr 18, 2005 at 09:05 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 09:09 PM
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Darton makes the kit, but I'd have Steve @ Racetech do the work. Since you are on the East Coast, you might also contact Agostino racing as well.

Both are sponsors on the right. I tried to save money buy going with a local shop (just for a line bore and hone) and it ended up costing me more in the long run.

HTH
DAvid
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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So can you make the stock LS1 block work with a 427? I thought you couldn't go that big, but I really have no clue.
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Ru2n00n3er
So can you make the stock LS1 block work with a 427? I thought you couldn't go that big, but I really have no clue.

The cast in liners in the factory block are only machinable to about .010 over stock bore. It's the nature of the sleaves and h2o jackets. Darton offers a modular integrated deck (MID) system that can be installed. The cast in sleaves are bored out of the block, basically down to the water jackets, and then the new sleaves/deck are installed, milled, and you're good to go. (That's it in a nut shell). If I am not mistaken, you can bore THOSE to 4.165". Something that is impossible with a normal LS1,2,6. C5R and LS7...C5R comes at a hair under a 4.125 for finishing purposes. I do believe that it is boreable to 4.165 also, but for nearly twice the cost of a Darton Sleaved block. (6k vs, about 3k).

Catch me, I'd say depending on your power goals, you'd be fine to go with the LS1 block you're talking about, have it cleaned and tolerenced, making sure the cylinders and honed smooth again, double checking where the ding is on the wall and that it can be salvaged, getting the mains align honed, and either building a fully forged 347~348 (where ever it ends up with the cylinders cleaned up) or a stroker 382. By the same token, forged short blocks (346~348s) from sponsors are somewhere around what, 1200~1500. Forged LQ4 (6.0L) are around 3, but you add 80 lbs to the font of the car. If you're hell bent on learning something, build it yourself (or maybe you know how, I'm not sure). Whatever ya do, check the sponsors, email/call them, there are there to help.
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