Prophecy

iTrader: (2)

So like 2 weeks ago i got a cam swap and a full dyno tune. All of a sudden this week after i drive the car for any amount of time and turn the car off, then try to start it back up nothing happens.... Like when i press the clutch in and turn the key it doesnt even click or anything... It seems like the car doesnt know the clutch is engaged... But the weird part about it is... after u let the car sit for about 30 mins then try to start it again it will fire right up... no problems at all.... Does ANYBODY have any clue whats going on here?

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Usually when you get that behavior you need a new starter solenoid.

Prophecy

iTrader: (2)

the solenoid itself or the starter.... my mechanic is taking out my starter to test it tmo.... wheres the started solenoid...

01Generalee

iTrader: (1)

you could probably do it your self. the starter is like 2 bolts I think. Just get a new one at autozone and if that dont fix it you can take it back.

Lost

iTrader: (2)

Solenoid is that thingymcbob riding on top of the starter. Do you have headers, solenoids dont like heat and a dyno tune probably leaned out the mixture so the exhaust temps would go up, Ford figured this out 35 years ago and mounted the solenoid on the fenderwell away from any heat.Ive had several Gm powered hotrods that I had to permanently jumper the GM solenoid and wire in a Ford Solenoid.

BBQLS1

Solenoid. But for fun, I'd check out the clutch engaged switch. I'm guessing it is actuated by the clutch pedal itself.

Prophecy

iTrader: (2)

thanks alot for the help im gonna try and tackle this problem tmo....

Prophecy

iTrader: (2)

anyones else's input will still be welcomed...

Builder

I presume the battery was disconnected recently. Did you check your battery cables? They could have a loose connection. Also, cables can crack, or be corroded, inside the insulation. You may still have power to your accessories with a failing cable, but not enough juice to kick the starter. Let us know...

Prophecy

iTrader: (2)

the battery is fine... double checked the cables its an optima battery.... car has 42k miles on it... stock manifolds and cats.... but b4 the tune i shot a code for my passenger side catalyic converter....

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Have your tuner disable the VATS. If the problem goes away, it's in the VATS system. If it is still there, look for an electrical problem, clutch switch, or starter.

Prophecy

iTrader: (2)

Whats the VATS system? english plz.

Builder

Vehicle Anti-Theft System. If it's like mine, you have a chip on your key, which is a resistor. There are two wires (orange and white on my setup) that exit the bottom of the column into their own connector. They are teeney-weeney little thin wires. When you turn the key, they actually wrap around. Eventually, they break. But, you would get an indication on the panel (most likely, if the bulbs work) if the VATS had an error.

ss rally red

iTrader: (8)

Yeah buy a starter,doesn't matter if that is the problem/or right diagnosis but make sure to bitch at the counter guy that they sold you a bad part I have been in the reapir business for years and this is the mentality that causes us the most problems,YES it could be the starter but without knowing for sure make it the parts suppliers problem