I read some of the posts where people are removing the engines from the bottom using an engine lift.

Some are attaching the lift to the cross brace under the air box. Seems more convenient and you don't have to extend the arm on the hoist as far. Does anyone know if this provides enough support to lift the car? Is it safer just to use the sub frame rails?

 

If your going to lift the car with a engine crane i would the strut towers. some one correct me if I'm wrong but that crossmember under the air lid doesn't seem that strong. Do you have acsess to a car lift?

 

You are wrong the core support will hold just fine the problem is that it is sharp underneith and I use straps so it could cut my staps etc... I normally use the Bumper support behind the front bumper foam etc... It is attached to the frame rails and it has a place for the hooks on my ratchet straps. I posted pictures just look under my past posts and you can take a look at the photos. Let me know if you need guidence.
Jeff

 

I like to use the sub frame rails ahead of the radiator, where the bumper support attaches. I use a chain with each end around a frame rail, then put the crane hook in the middle of the chain. The bumper support would be great, but I removed that from my car to save weight! The radiator support may be strong enough, but it makes me nervous, besides that would require removing the radiator first. I leave the radiator in the car for the whole thing. If you use the strut towers, you will have to unbolt the LCAs, which will require a wheel alignment afterwards. Better to unbold the shock towers and let the entire front suspension go with the K-member.

 

do you guys think its easier to pull the motor out the bottom, then it is the top. on my first attempt at pulling an ls1 fbody, i had my motor out the top in probably 5 to 6 hours, just with hand tools no air rachets, that was with baggin the bolts and labeling all the wires. time also included tranny too. just me and a buddy doing the work. just wanted your guys opinion not trying to steal the thread.

thanks

 

Yeah it isway easier out the bottom takes me @ 1hr from start to finish.
Cal you wouldn't have to take the LCA's off just unbolt the strut from the LCA. ALthough that would make you have to lift the car higher to clear them etc..., But the strut towers would make you have to extend the engine hoist arm more and limit its lifting capacity etc.. I agree I let the suspention go with it.

 

Thanks for the help. I'll need to look for the bumper support tonight. Does anything have to be removed to get to it? Before I saw the replies, I was thinking that I needed to remove the radiator.

 

I think you do have to remove some stuff to get to the bumper support. I've removed so much stuff you can see what is left of it on my car easy. (I'm running only the botom flat part of the bumper support, and all the foam is gone) I think the windshield washer reservoir might be in the way, but I don't have that in my car anymore either.

Radiator doesn't need to come out unless you're afraid you might bump it with the waterpump pulley.

 

I'm finishing up an out the top removal right now... I will be puting it back in through the bottom. Not sure how you guys yank it so fast out the top or get half the wiring off the motor.

 

I am looking at mine out the bottom since I have a new K Member, TC and other stuff to go with the forged shortblock. Sounds so much easier.

 

thats the way i did mine; new K, motor, and clutch.

 

im lost on how ya'll get the motor out the bottom.... im new to this tho, but u mean ur jacking up the front end high enuff to slide the motor out underneath the front of the car.. perhaps this is a retarded question but i only thought there was one way to do this lol

 

Yep, unbolt the K Member, driveshaft, trans xmember, some electrical plugs, some lines and raise the car and roll out the engine and trans.

 

The other site(ls2.com) has the video and I followed inspector12s' instructions from one of his previous posts. It took me 8hrs to get it out with air tools because I went slow and had never done it before. It took way less time to put it back. Good luck!

 

check the FAQ

 

I pulled mine from the top and it didn't take too long at all, but I already had the heads pulled... and sometimes I just like to be stubborn

 

I pulled mine from the top, but it's going back in as a complete front assembly via the Inspector12 method with a slight variation. I'm using a modified motorcycle jack (1500 lb capacity) that has additional support to lift the assembly up into the car while the engine hoist is supporting the car itself. Should be done this weekend.

 

I have done a few out the bottom and it gets quicker every time. The only negative is you need to bleed the brakes and get an alignment when you put it back together. Takes me about 2 hours to drop it out the bottom with no air tools.

 

I just lower mine down on the car LOL! I dont want to have the engine hoist holding it any longer than I have to. Just a precaution on my part though. My write up was a quicky due to the fact that I have never sat down and put a specific order to which I take things off or why. I have reasons for a certain order things come off or get loosed, but I just don't think about them until I am doing the removal or install etc... If you have any questions or problems with the removal give me a ring I can usually guide you over the phone if you can't figure it out etc... Just PM me and I'll give you my number etc... Good luck!
Jeff
P.S Yes the brakes are a must , but an alignment is only needed if you take the lower control arms loose or install differnt springs etc... If you take it off the way it was and reinstall it the same no need for an alignement.

 

I was going to go out the top... ended up taking it out the bottom, It was SOOOOOOOO much easier.