Can you swap out head bolts......
05-06-2005, 09:20 AM
#21
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Yello,
I just replaced my heads and used the ARP bolts. However, if you followed the proper procedure on the TTY bolts, I see no problem with them holding up with the level of modification of your LQ4. If you were running lots of boost or nitrous oxide, then it might be worth it.
I'm an engineer and a former diesel truck mechanic and I would leave the bolts alone, this is my primary advice. Now, if you still want to do it, here is what I would do (no guarantees about sealing, just my attempt to try to help).
1. Drain all the coolant
a. Remove cap from coolant reservoir
b. Drain radiator using hose provided
c. Remove lower radiator hose from radiator
d. Remove all 4 vent pipes from heads and leave in place (this acts as a siphon/vacuum break)
e. Remove the two block drains (driver's side is a large hex plug near #7 Cyl, Pax Side is an 8 mm plug near the #8 Cyl)
f. Wait 30 minutes to let all coolant drain out of heads
2. Now that all of the coolant should be out of the heads, loosen the head bolts a quarter of a turn in reverse order of torquing (15 down to 1).
3. Repeat step 2 until all bolts are loose
4. When all bolts are loose, remove them and leave the heads alone. The dowels and any residual adhesion from the gaskets should hold them exactly in place.
5. Lubricate the ARP bolt threads, washers, and under the bolt heads with assembly lube and screw the bolts in finger tight then snug up with ratchet and socket.
6. Torque bolts 1 through 10 in proper torque order to 30 pounds feet and bolts 11 through 15 to 10 pounds feet.
7. Torque bolts 1 through 10 in proper torque order to 50 pounds feet and bolts 11 through 15 to 17 pounds feet.
8. Torque bolts 1 through 10 in proper torque order to 70 pounds feet and bolts 11 through 15 to 22 pounds feet.
9. Replace coolant drain plugs (coat with Teflon sealant or use Teflon tape).
10. Reattach lower radiator hose and close radiator drain ****
11. Reattach cylinder head vent pipes (4 places).
12. Add coolant
13. Start engine and check for leaks.
14. Check oil for coolant and coolant for oil every day for a week. Make sure that the coolant stays where it should (you should expect to have to add some a couple of times as the system is purged of air).
If I were going to try to do what you want to do, this is how I would do it. It will probably work fine, but doing nothing will probably work fine too unless you suspect that you've over-torqued the TTY bolts.
All my best,
Steve
I just replaced my heads and used the ARP bolts. However, if you followed the proper procedure on the TTY bolts, I see no problem with them holding up with the level of modification of your LQ4. If you were running lots of boost or nitrous oxide, then it might be worth it.
I'm an engineer and a former diesel truck mechanic and I would leave the bolts alone, this is my primary advice. Now, if you still want to do it, here is what I would do (no guarantees about sealing, just my attempt to try to help).
1. Drain all the coolant
a. Remove cap from coolant reservoir
b. Drain radiator using hose provided
c. Remove lower radiator hose from radiator
d. Remove all 4 vent pipes from heads and leave in place (this acts as a siphon/vacuum break)
e. Remove the two block drains (driver's side is a large hex plug near #7 Cyl, Pax Side is an 8 mm plug near the #8 Cyl)
f. Wait 30 minutes to let all coolant drain out of heads
2. Now that all of the coolant should be out of the heads, loosen the head bolts a quarter of a turn in reverse order of torquing (15 down to 1).
3. Repeat step 2 until all bolts are loose
4. When all bolts are loose, remove them and leave the heads alone. The dowels and any residual adhesion from the gaskets should hold them exactly in place.
5. Lubricate the ARP bolt threads, washers, and under the bolt heads with assembly lube and screw the bolts in finger tight then snug up with ratchet and socket.
6. Torque bolts 1 through 10 in proper torque order to 30 pounds feet and bolts 11 through 15 to 10 pounds feet.
7. Torque bolts 1 through 10 in proper torque order to 50 pounds feet and bolts 11 through 15 to 17 pounds feet.
8. Torque bolts 1 through 10 in proper torque order to 70 pounds feet and bolts 11 through 15 to 22 pounds feet.
9. Replace coolant drain plugs (coat with Teflon sealant or use Teflon tape).
10. Reattach lower radiator hose and close radiator drain ****
11. Reattach cylinder head vent pipes (4 places).
12. Add coolant
13. Start engine and check for leaks.
14. Check oil for coolant and coolant for oil every day for a week. Make sure that the coolant stays where it should (you should expect to have to add some a couple of times as the system is purged of air).
If I were going to try to do what you want to do, this is how I would do it. It will probably work fine, but doing nothing will probably work fine too unless you suspect that you've over-torqued the TTY bolts.
All my best,
Steve
05-06-2005, 09:32 AM
#22
just remember if you change the head bolts, and the head gasket starts leaking because of it. you arel looking at possibly pulling the whole motor, especially if you have some miles on the motor and the rings are a bit worn. Water all in the crankcase. I personally would just step up and pull the heads if your that worried about it.
05-06-2005, 01:18 PM
#23
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you can also snap an ARP bolt if you overtorque. i seem to remember a guy that said he torqued ARP bolts to stock specs and snapped the **** off. ARP bolts are great when used correctly tho.....
