Cam Question
05-11-2005, 08:07 PM
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Cam Question I just bought a comp cams 230/236 .598/.601 110lsa. I will be putting it in a 6.0 LQ9 with a set of heads (not sure what yet but looking for stage 2 LS6 style heads), 8.1 injectors and other bolt on as well as mod in sig. Just wondering how streetable this will be. My stall is a PI vig 3800 that will be restalled to 3400 and swaped to fit on a 4l80. Also wanted to know if I will need valve cover spacers and what size push rods should I use? This is going into my 2002 single cab silverado. Thanks
05-12-2005, 10:31 AM
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A 230/236 cam, even on a 110 LSA should be plenty streetable with a good tune. ~13* of overlap @.05, which is right where I'm at. (13.5 actually) Restall to 3400? So long as that's the same way vig normally rates stalls and it acts more like a ~3800 stall you should be fine, otherwise 3400 is a little low.
I don't know about the valve cover spacers and pushrods. I'm sure you aren't the first to mess with the LQ9 block though, have you tried searching for the pushrod length you need?
I don't know about the valve cover spacers and pushrods. I'm sure you aren't the first to mess with the LQ9 block though, have you tried searching for the pushrod length you need?
05-12-2005, 12:26 PM
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Dark Halo,
I'm running the Comp Pro-Magnum 1.75:1 Rockers on my LQ4 heads with 7.4" Comp Push Rods and 918 Springs. I am using my factory valve covers with the following modifications:
Driver's Side - Remove baffle completely and use die grinder to trim down cast aluminum dam at the forward end of where the sheet metal baffle was mounted. There may have been another place or two. I'll look at my pictures when I get home and post one of them.
Passenger Side - Use die grinder and burr to reduce protrusion of bottom side of one of the two center coil mounting bosses.
Recommendation: Paint the bottom side of protrusions with white typewriter correction fluid and see where things scrape. This fluid is basically emulsified paper and will just be trapped in the oil filter and shouldn't hurt anything in your engine. Grind until it doesn't scrape and then a little more for clearance. The adjusting nuts are where things will hit.
All my best,
Steve
PS
The 8.1 injectors are an easy change if you can find a good low mileage used set. I paid $200 for 8 that were removed from a totaled out truck with about 1,800 miles on it. Get a new O ring set (8 upper and 8 lower are available from Felpro for about $30 for the set). If you can't find a good used set for cheap, I'd just go the the 43 PPH Multec II injectors that ASM sells. The 8.1 30 PPH injectors are as hard as heck to find used in my experience. Either way, you'll just need to set the IFR to the appropriate flow for the injector. I haven't changed the offset or anything else and my engine runs fine.
I'm running the Comp Pro-Magnum 1.75:1 Rockers on my LQ4 heads with 7.4" Comp Push Rods and 918 Springs. I am using my factory valve covers with the following modifications:
Driver's Side - Remove baffle completely and use die grinder to trim down cast aluminum dam at the forward end of where the sheet metal baffle was mounted. There may have been another place or two. I'll look at my pictures when I get home and post one of them.
Passenger Side - Use die grinder and burr to reduce protrusion of bottom side of one of the two center coil mounting bosses.
Recommendation: Paint the bottom side of protrusions with white typewriter correction fluid and see where things scrape. This fluid is basically emulsified paper and will just be trapped in the oil filter and shouldn't hurt anything in your engine. Grind until it doesn't scrape and then a little more for clearance. The adjusting nuts are where things will hit.
All my best,
Steve
PS
The 8.1 injectors are an easy change if you can find a good low mileage used set. I paid $200 for 8 that were removed from a totaled out truck with about 1,800 miles on it. Get a new O ring set (8 upper and 8 lower are available from Felpro for about $30 for the set). If you can't find a good used set for cheap, I'd just go the the 43 PPH Multec II injectors that ASM sells. The 8.1 30 PPH injectors are as hard as heck to find used in my experience. Either way, you'll just need to set the IFR to the appropriate flow for the injector. I haven't changed the offset or anything else and my engine runs fine.
05-12-2005, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Bryant
Dark Halo,
I'm running the Comp Pro-Magnum 1.75:1 Rockers on my LQ4 heads with 7.4" Comp Push Rods and 918 Springs. I am using my factory valve covers with the following modifications:
Driver's Side - Remove baffle completely and use die grinder to trim down cast aluminum dam at the forward end of where the sheet metal baffle was mounted. There may have been another place or two. I'll look at my pictures when I get home and post one of them.
Passenger Side - Use die grinder and burr to reduce protrusion of bottom side of one of the two center coil mounting bosses.
Recommendation: Paint the bottom side of protrusions with white typewriter correction fluid and see where things scrape. This fluid is basically emulsified paper and will just be trapped in the oil filter and shouldn't hurt anything in your engine. Grind until it doesn't scrape and then a little more for clearance. The adjusting nuts are where things will hit.
All my best,
Steve
PS
The 8.1 injectors are an easy change if you can find a good low mileage used set. I paid $200 for 8 that were removed from a totaled out truck with about 1,800 miles on it. Get a new O ring set (8 upper and 8 lower are available from Felpro for about $30 for the set). If you can't find a good used set for cheap, I'd just go the the 43 PPH Multec II injectors that ASM sells. The 8.1 30 PPH injectors are as hard as heck to find used in my experience. Either way, you'll just need to set the IFR to the appropriate flow for the injector. I haven't changed the offset or anything else and my engine runs fine.
I'm running the Comp Pro-Magnum 1.75:1 Rockers on my LQ4 heads with 7.4" Comp Push Rods and 918 Springs. I am using my factory valve covers with the following modifications:
Driver's Side - Remove baffle completely and use die grinder to trim down cast aluminum dam at the forward end of where the sheet metal baffle was mounted. There may have been another place or two. I'll look at my pictures when I get home and post one of them.
Passenger Side - Use die grinder and burr to reduce protrusion of bottom side of one of the two center coil mounting bosses.
Recommendation: Paint the bottom side of protrusions with white typewriter correction fluid and see where things scrape. This fluid is basically emulsified paper and will just be trapped in the oil filter and shouldn't hurt anything in your engine. Grind until it doesn't scrape and then a little more for clearance. The adjusting nuts are where things will hit.
All my best,
Steve
PS
The 8.1 injectors are an easy change if you can find a good low mileage used set. I paid $200 for 8 that were removed from a totaled out truck with about 1,800 miles on it. Get a new O ring set (8 upper and 8 lower are available from Felpro for about $30 for the set). If you can't find a good used set for cheap, I'd just go the the 43 PPH Multec II injectors that ASM sells. The 8.1 30 PPH injectors are as hard as heck to find used in my experience. Either way, you'll just need to set the IFR to the appropriate flow for the injector. I haven't changed the offset or anything else and my engine runs fine.
05-12-2005, 10:54 PM
#6
Your cam is very close to mine (Comp E-XR 232/236-595/600-110lsa) very streetable but shakes the ground and the doors with prothaine motor mounts at idle. You'll love it, but you will need tunning.If your heads are (not) shaved you will need stock linth pushrods.You will not need valve cover spacers just stock cover will do just find BUT you might need to have you pistions flycut if you use your stock pistions,I have Ross pistions with 2cc valve reliefs clears just find.
Last edited by Randy WS6; 05-12-2005 at 11:04 PM.