4" Crank recomendations
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4" Crank recomendations Any recommendations where to go for reasonably priced 4 inch LS1 cranks? Everything I've found is pushing 2 grand. I'm looking to build a 383. Anything will help!!! 
Not sure what your time frame is but the LS7 will have a 4" crank. It's got to be cheaper than $2,000. Not sure what the fitment issues are but someone probably knows.
I'm really waiting to see what SDPC can do with the LS7 parts (like they are doing with the 402 LS2s).
I'm really waiting to see what SDPC can do with the LS7 parts (like they are doing with the 402 LS2s).
Originally Posted by 00Vette
I thought the Z07 had a 4.125 inch crank? The LS1/LS6 blocks have to be ground down to fit that crank. I'm not entirely sure though............Anyone? 
ls7 has a 4.125 bore and 4.00 stroke, hence 427
eagle 4" strokes are $999 from just about every sponsor.
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Originally Posted by jrp
ls7 has a 4.125 bore and 4.00 stroke, hence 427
eagle 4" strokes are $999 from just about every sponsor.
eagle 4" strokes are $999 from just about every sponsor.
eagles about your only option; callies, lunati, and others are as you already know cost about twice as much.
like i said, you can pick up an eagle crank from just about any sponsor; TR, TSP, MTI, Tybrne, ect.
like i said, you can pick up an eagle crank from just about any sponsor; TR, TSP, MTI, Tybrne, ect.
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Originally Posted by jrp
eagles about your only option; callies, lunati, and others are as you already know cost about twice as much.
like i said, you can pick up an eagle crank from just about any sponsor; TR, TSP, MTI, Tybrne, ect.
like i said, you can pick up an eagle crank from just about any sponsor; TR, TSP, MTI, Tybrne, ect.
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Originally Posted by 00Vette
Is Eagle of decent quality? I'll look them up.......Thanks for the help.
I can shift faster than you.
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I have built motors with all three cranks listed above (Lunati, Callies, Eagle). For the money, the Eagle is very hard to beat for a quality crank in a street/strip application.
However, a good bit of care and time needs to be taken before assembly with the Eagle. Of the few LS1 Eagle cranks I have used, both the rod and main journals have a considerable amount of taper and out-of-round. Also, the manner in which the counterweights are finished poses a problem with alot of the off-the-shelf pistoins in terms of counterweight to skirt and pin boss clearance. My best advice is to purchase the entire rotating assembly from one company who has specific experience with this crank. HPE, for example, offers an Eagle rotating assembly with pistons and rods that work without any fitment issues. Just something to keep in mind when looking at the lower cost alternative.
Jason
However, a good bit of care and time needs to be taken before assembly with the Eagle. Of the few LS1 Eagle cranks I have used, both the rod and main journals have a considerable amount of taper and out-of-round. Also, the manner in which the counterweights are finished poses a problem with alot of the off-the-shelf pistoins in terms of counterweight to skirt and pin boss clearance. My best advice is to purchase the entire rotating assembly from one company who has specific experience with this crank. HPE, for example, offers an Eagle rotating assembly with pistons and rods that work without any fitment issues. Just something to keep in mind when looking at the lower cost alternative.
Jason
You can shave another couple hundred bucks off a new eagle crank by searching ebay, theres atleast one guy selling them. If it were me, id buy from a sponsor just for piece of mind.
Originally Posted by Jason99T/A
I have built motors with all three cranks listed above (Lunati, Callies, Eagle). For the money, the Eagle is very hard to beat for a quality crank in a street/strip application.
However, a good bit of care and time needs to be taken before assembly with the Eagle. Of the few LS1 Eagle cranks I have used, both the rod and main journals have a considerable amount of taper and out-of-round. Also, the manner in which the counterweights are finished poses a problem with alot of the off-the-shelf pistoins in terms of counterweight to skirt and pin boss clearance. My best advice is to purchase the entire rotating assembly from one company who has specific experience with this crank. HPE, for example, offers an Eagle rotating assembly with pistons and rods that work without any fitment issues. Just something to keep in mind when looking at the lower cost alternative.
Jason
However, a good bit of care and time needs to be taken before assembly with the Eagle. Of the few LS1 Eagle cranks I have used, both the rod and main journals have a considerable amount of taper and out-of-round. Also, the manner in which the counterweights are finished poses a problem with alot of the off-the-shelf pistoins in terms of counterweight to skirt and pin boss clearance. My best advice is to purchase the entire rotating assembly from one company who has specific experience with this crank. HPE, for example, offers an Eagle rotating assembly with pistons and rods that work without any fitment issues. Just something to keep in mind when looking at the lower cost alternative.
Jason
Thanks!
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Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle Eagle
Put your money into the induction, not the crank.
Put your money into the induction, not the crank.
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Originally Posted by Jason99T/A
I have built motors with all three cranks listed above (Lunati, Callies, Eagle). For the money, the Eagle is very hard to beat for a quality crank in a street/strip application.
However, a good bit of care and time needs to be taken before assembly with the Eagle. Of the few LS1 Eagle cranks I have used, both the rod and main journals have a considerable amount of taper and out-of-round. Also, the manner in which the counterweights are finished poses a problem with alot of the off-the-shelf pistoins in terms of counterweight to skirt and pin boss clearance. My best advice is to purchase the entire rotating assembly from one company who has specific experience with this crank. HPE, for example, offers an Eagle rotating assembly with pistons and rods that work without any fitment issues. Just something to keep in mind when looking at the lower cost alternative.
Jason
However, a good bit of care and time needs to be taken before assembly with the Eagle. Of the few LS1 Eagle cranks I have used, both the rod and main journals have a considerable amount of taper and out-of-round. Also, the manner in which the counterweights are finished poses a problem with alot of the off-the-shelf pistoins in terms of counterweight to skirt and pin boss clearance. My best advice is to purchase the entire rotating assembly from one company who has specific experience with this crank. HPE, for example, offers an Eagle rotating assembly with pistons and rods that work without any fitment issues. Just something to keep in mind when looking at the lower cost alternative.
Jason
Thanks for the great info. I'll keep you posted on the outcome. There is a shop here who deals with strictly LS1/LS6's. I'll talk to him about the install. I'm sure he know's what to do. But I think I'm gonna buy the whole rotating assembly. 
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From: TAMPA by way of MIAMI!!!
Hey I just checked at Summit Racing and they got a Eagle kit all forged with a 4" 4340 crank and 6.2" H-beams with forged flat tops. All balanced with rings
PN- ESP-B12804STD for $2600
Now I'm thinkin I'll stroke the LS1 for the Blazer 
PN- ESP-B12804STD for $2600
Now I'm thinkin I'll stroke the LS1 for the Blazer
