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Cam install, HELP quick please, wont start

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Old May 22, 2005 | 11:17 AM
  #1  
NVE THIS's Avatar
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From: Frederickburg, VA
Default Cam install, HELP quick please, wont start

This past weekend my friend and I were installing my F14 cam that I had purchased. We installed the cam dot to dot with a new double roller timing chain. It fired up initially for about 1 second and then died. I had modified my primary VE table before starting it to lean out the 400-1200 range. After it started and died the first time I had modified the programing and returned it to what it was running before the cam. I could not get it to start after that without holding the throttle open 100%. Even doing that it would not stay running. It started with the throttle 100% and then backfired through the intake. I verified while it was intermittently running that there was oil pressure, it was around 40psi, fluctuated but I don't think it dropped below 30psi.
We noticed a audible ticking nose coming from under the valve covers. We pulled them off and found that some rockers on both the passenger and drivers side were wiggly. When we turn the crank the lifters tighten up as the pushrods lift. The bolts were torqued properly to 22 ft/lb but the rocker itself was loose. Turning the crank, we verified that all pushrods and rockers moved properly. The crank turns smoothly without any signs that something internal is contacting.
We used the dowel rods to hold up the lifters during the cam install. The cam slid out with no problems and went in very smoothly. Taking out the dowel rods the cam turned very smooth. I don't believe we droped a lifter.
We pulled the plugs, cyl. 1 and 2 were black, the rest 2-8 were all fouled, fuel was on all plugs.

Theory:
We think that modifying the primary VE table to lean it out on startup allowed the car to start. After the initial start I had adjusted it back to it's prior settings which were richer than it should have been. This caused it to have too much fuel and foul the plugs. We are uncertain of why the rockers are wiggly but also torqued. We followed the ls1 howto guide, installed rocker arms, torqued to 22 ft/lb and then rotated the crank 180* and then re-torqued.

This is what I am thinking:
I bought new plugs, will modify the VE table to lean it out between 400-1200. Install new plugs. Remove all rockers and reinstall. Torque to 22 ft/lb rotate crank 180* re-torque and rotate the crank a few more times to inspect. I can fill the cyl. with air to verify no leaks and rule out a bent valve.

With the package I ordered I got the F14-112 +4, hardened pushrods (7.400), manley dual springs with titanium retainers, seats, valve stem seals, rollmaster double roller timing chain.

All were installed with no problem during the install. All seemed to go smoothly. Do you have any suggestions or tuning files that you can help me out with? I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 02:25 PM
  #2  
DaddySS's Avatar
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From: Bergen County, NJ
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It should start with partial throttle without any tuning adjustments. It will probably not hold idle but should start. Double check your wiring and the obvious things, programming will not put you where you where are right now.

Don't worry about the rockers, remember the lifters need to pump up so a little slack right now should not be an issue.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 11:02 PM
  #3  
Adrenaline_Z's Avatar
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From: K-W, Ontario
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I find that theory of lash adjustment tough to swallow.

If there is slack in the pushrod, there is no pre-load. That means lifter seat
is already against the retainer clip.

Whether the lifter pumps up, or not...the slack will remain unless thermal
expansion takes up the slack. Even then, we're dealing with 0.010 - 0.020"
of variance.

I'd say, there is some need of valve train adjustment to get the proper preload.
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