tried doing a search but it wouldnt let me. have the 6point bolts. sorry these are for the head studs, also have the header studs if anybody knows the torque to them. thanks in advance

 

I did 25, 55, then 80 after soaking the nuts and washers in motor oil. Top small studs go to 25 w/motor oil. The header studs should torque down to the same as stock. Around 18 ft/lbs.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=50

beast is right on the header studs as well.

 

thanks fellas and jrp i tried searching just tech would let me. i know these same q's probably get asked hundreds of times i was just in a hurry and when it wouldnt let me find them i had to. sorry

 

Make sure you use the ARP lube or the TQ will not be accurate (as accurate as it should be).

 

If you use the ARP lube, it changes the tq specs signifigantly.

 

i tq w/ 10w30 oil and 80#

 

I agree and this is what the tech rep at ARP also told me. I use the ARP head bolts and at first I used new motor oil to torque them down. I wasn't comfortable or confident that they were torqued to spec. So I pulled all of them out cleaned them and the bolt holes thoroughly, then reinstalled with the ARP special moly lube and what a difference it made; they all went on smoothly with no binding. Use the ARP moly lube, it's worth it.

BTW - I asked the same ARP rep why they didn't include the special moly lube with such an expensive kit and he said it should have came with it. I also asked why he is so adamant against using motor oil yet their directions gave specific torque specs for it. He said because most people will still use motor oil instead of the lube even though it does not torque nearly as accurate as the lube.

 

No doubt. For the head bolts they recommend 80# for the big bolts with motor oil and I believe 70# when using the ARP lube. For the little bolts it's 28# with motor oil and 23# with the ARP lube.

 

is it possible to over torque the head studs? just as long as they are all evenly torqued

 

Why would you want to do that?

 

well in the first post some one said to torque to 80 so i did, then when i read on it was just 70 with the lube. so does that hurt anything. i dont want to change head gaskets any time soon again

 

I torqued to 80 with my iron block with arp lube. No problems here. With the alluminum block I wouldn't go 80 because of the all. threads. If you already did it then leave it. Let them sit over night and retorque again. The gasket will compreess and the bolts will loose some torque.

 

Use the ARP lube and torque to 70#s

 

they are aready at 80 so i will just leave it at that. so i should check the torque again? thats cool. not like im in a big hurry or anything. got a while before the new parts come in

 

If you used motor oil and TQ'd to 80, then you did it perfect. If you used the lube, then you prolly went over about 10 Ft. lbs. That's why I specified "with motor oil" in my first post. If you want to get technical, no one else has even posted the correct TQ for the lube. It's supposed to be 65 ft/lbs. Either way I doubt you'll have any trouble. Which lube did you use? oil or ARP?

 

I think you will be fine with the torque a little high. The studs are a lot more forgiving as you are pulling on all the aluminum threads at the same time. If you retorqued it you might need new gaskets.

 

i used arp lube. i dont really want to put new gaskets on, but i also want my stuff to work right. if over torquing doesnt cause a problem im not going to worry about it.