Every aftermarket has their own little tricks, for non adjustables (stock or not) it is straight forward. Tighten bolt gently untill you cannot twist the p-rod by hand (no need for it to be forceful). Once you reach that stage it is 22ftlbs with an accurate trq wrench.
Personaly I like to bring both valves at same height "compression height" (not necessary, but that is me)
After that you need to check preload on lifter just to make sure you have the correct p-rod length.

Preload measurement:

I normaly prime the motor at this time with coil pacs and pump still disengaged and fuel line disconected (use container for any remneants in fuel line), butwith covers on (not to make a mess).

Once I have done 2>3 cranks with a few full revolutions and i see oil pressure for a few seconds, then I remove covers:

Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation until both valves are closed. You are on the compression cycle for that cylinder. (At this position the valve springs are at their least amount of tension making the job a little easier to do.)

Wait a few minutes, allowing the lifters to bleed down. Now, lay a rigid straight edge across the cylinder head, supporting it on the surface of the head where the valve cover gasket would go. Using a metal scribe and the straightedge, carefully scribe a line on both pushrods. Now slowly remove the torque from all valve train bolts, removing any pressure from the pushrods. Wait a few minutes for the pushrod seat in the hydraulic lifter to move back to the neutral position. Carefully scribe a new line on both pushrods.

Measure the distance between the two scribe marks, it represents the amount of lifter preload. If the lines are .030” to .060” apart you have proper lifter preload. If the lines are the same or less than .020” apart you have no or insufficient preload.

Hope this makes sense.