OK, quick question on torque specs. I have heard 80ft/lbs and 90ft/lbs following factory torque sequence. So, I just want to make sure I torque them down correctly.

Thanks,
Matt

 

anyone? This is an iron block btw.

 

Taken from jMx's LS1 Howto.com:



Apply the moly lube that came with the ARP bolts to the threads, as well as under the head of the bolt and both sides of the washer. Only a light coating is needed. If you don't have the included moly lube, put some motor oil on the threads.

Torque all 15mm bolts to 30lbft in the torque sequence above.

OPTIONAL: Safety check! One one side of the motor install 2 pushrods (one exhaust, one intake), the rocker pedestal, and two rockers...then turn the motor over by hand two full turns. While this method wont be exact, if the engine didn't stop when you were turning it you most likely installed the cam correctly. If it felt like it stopped at one point and wouldn't go further, chances are a piston is hitting a valve and you need to disassemble things and go back to the dot to dot part, OR, your cam is huge and the piston to valve clearance is ZERO (it'd take a really big cam for this to happen)

Do a second pass at 50lbft, and finally a 3rd at 70lbft.

Finally install the 5 smaller ARP bolts and torque them to 22lbft.

 

Are the head bolts torqued the same as the head studs?

 

studs call for 70 also with moly lube

 

i have the ARP stud instructions in my FAQ. i used the provided moly lube.

 

So, it's 65 ft.lb for the bigger studs it seems when using ARP moly lube..

 

as per the ARP stud kit if using aluminum heads 65ft big and 22ft for small

 

 

JRP, nice faq section, going to try that ls6 pcv mod when cam goes in, just one more thing to ad to the list.