SSblack98

iTrader: (8)

I have a 2002 LS1 short block and I have ARP rod bolts that I bought to replace the factory bolts that everyone says are weak. Is this just a direct swap out? I have been told by one person that I might need to get the rods resized if I changed to the ARP's. IS THIS TRUE??? If so I am not going to bother with them. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Search is your friend......friend.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ight=rod+bolts

Cal

iTrader: (1)

There are two types of ARP rod bolts. If you're going to use the High Performance bolts, you don't need to resize the rod ends. But if you are putting in the ARP Pro series, the big ends of the rods should be resized and oversized bearings installed. The Katech rod bolts don't require resizing either. The Katech bolts are a better choice.

Installing the bolts is a good idea imo. It also gives you a chance to inspect and replace any bad bearings you might have. There is no need to "change the bolts one at a time to avoid dislodging the bearings" as sugested in that thread. This is just more internet misinformation. The bearings are designed with little tabs that keeps them in aligned.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure which "everyone" you're talking to, but evidently not everyone knows that GM upgraded the bolt design for the '01+ models and they're plenty strong enough for most applications.

I'd feel much safer running the revised GM bolts as assembled from St. Cathy's plant than I would installing new rod bolts without measuring bearing clearances on all 8 rods.

In fact, that's what I did.

SSblack98

iTrader: (8)

I bought the "high performance" ARP bolts not the pro series. So do you guys think it is worth the time to mess with them or just stay w/the factory '02 rod bolts? BTW, I have NO plans of running any nitrous or boost, it is a NA heads/cam car all the way. If this really isn't worth my time I would rather not mess with it being that I am in no way a machinist or professional engine builder. Thanks for the input!

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Count my vote towards leaving the bolts as they are. Put on a stronger timing chain and a ported oil pump.

SSblack98

iTrader: (8)

Thanks, yea I already installed comp lifters, LS6 ported oil pump and LS2 chain. Just trying to think of everything, think I will leave the bolts alone. No sense going through the effort and screwing something up. It should hold together, it only has 22k and is out of an 02 A4 vette a lady owned so it hasn't been stressed so far in its life!

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Stress on rod bolts has nothing to do with nitrous or boost. It's only spinning the engine fast that stresses the bolts. If you miss a shift and over rev the motor, it might be nice to know it won't throw a rod.

ThirdGenLS1

iTrader: (11)

if you have the engine out why not do it. Not like it takes all that long to do it if you have the engine on the stand(not like its going to hurt anything). I replaced my bolts while my engine was on the stand with the katech bolts. Everything seems to be ok so far.

Justin

v8-7

im going with some Katechs.

I just made a post on this subject a few days ago, im sure the thread can be found on page 2,lol.

SSblack98

iTrader: (8)

My main reason for thinking of NOT replacing them was talk of having to remeasure clearances and clearances changing with the new bolts. If the 01-up bolts are stong enough for my application I'd rather not mess with the factory clearances and risk screwing up a bearing because the clearance wasn't just right. I can handle cam swaps, head swaps and stuff like that but when you are talking about critical tolerances like rod bearing clearance I'm not sure how I feel about messing with that if it is not necessary. If you engine builders out there really think that it won't compromise the clearances by me just changing the bolts then maybe I will change them. Also, should I use the factory torque specs or should the arp bolts have a specific torque? (I haven't opened them yet or read the instructions). Thanks to everyone for the input so far!

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Any competent engine builder will cringe at the thought of swapping rod bolts without measuring bearing clearances...but:

The only game changing input I'd consider would be from Lingenfelter's engine guy if someone can get it. Here's why.

For years, Lingenfelter took new LS1 engines from GM and reworked them for the ASA racing series. The rework included, among other things, new rod bolts. If Lingenfelter did research and didn't find it necessary to re-measure rod bearing clearances...they were confident enough with the rod bolts they used and their torquing process, then I'd change my stance on the matter assuming you use the same exact rod bolts and torquing procedure/specs as they did.

Ed Potter from Lingenfelter posts here occasionally, I'd track him down and see if he can find out from their engine guy.

SSblack98

iTrader: (8)

Yea, I know some people have had success with just swaping them out but I still at this point think its taking a bigger chance not getting the clearances right as opposed to just leaving them alone. Unless some known engine builder can prove me wrong. Plus I am only gonna be running it to about 6700-6800 rpms.

TAF Motorsports

iTrader: (10)

remember guys, stock rods are cracked cap rods so you wont have the cap shift like you would with standard rods.

TAF Motorsports

iTrader: (10)

Katech http://www.katechengines.com/katech_inc/

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Bearing crush is a function of the pressure the rod bolts place on the rod cap, and bearing clearance is a function of (among other things) bearing crush.

I don't know if cracked-cap rods are less prone to variation in crush in this manner than conventional rods, however. Lingenfelter is the only shop I know of with experience in this area with lots of engines on the field.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Right! And guess what kind of rod bolts Lingenfelter uses? Katech! Listen, like I said in my other post, if you use Katech bolts, you don't have to resize. Just torque to spec. The Katech bolts were developed by Katech in conjunction with GM for the ASA racing series, as noted above. And they were designed to go in without resizing. You don't have to be a machinist to install them; you only need to know how to use a torque wrench. I have these bolts and my engine sees 7000 rpm on a regular basiss.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

I went with the Katech bolts as well. No problems here so far.

SSblack98

iTrader: (8)

I understand that Katech bolts are designed to be swapped out w/no resizing. Now maybe I should have done more research before I bought them but what I think everyone has forgotten here is that I already HAVE the ARP "high performance" rod bolts. And my original question (which no one so far seems to know the answer for sure) is whether I can swap out the oem bolts for the ones I have and be safe. I called Lingenfelter and they told me the same thing Cal is saying which is that they only use (and sell) the Katech bolts. SO basically I can send back the bolts I have and buy katechs, or swap in the bolts I have or leave the freakin thing alone!

BAIN

iTrader: (5)

Hey I'm in the same boat. I already have the ARP's. Wonder if we called ARP if you would find someone that would tell yes or no? I crossed referenced the part# off my ARP's from Thunder in my Jeg's magazine and in the add it says:

" Strongest, most reliable OEM replacement rod bolts available!"

Part # 070-134-6006....Chevy LS1