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How To Remove the Engine From the Bottom
#41
Also, I m,ay your stocker if you are putting in a 7.0, pm me with a price if you are...I need another one like I need a hole in head but hey another one always works good for insurance purposes, I think.
#42
Originally Posted by 2000_LS1
I need to find some pics of each step at least so i can show the areas in which everything is and all. If you would do that skinnies I would appreciate it.
#45
The way I lifted my car high enough was,
I placed the rear end on jack stands, lowered the front so the crossmember was resting on a piano dolly, then lift the car with 2 suv jacks on both sides of the car. After it was high enough I just rolled the engine, tranny, crossmember unit, out of the way. Then I placed the front of the car on jack stands.
I placed the rear end on jack stands, lowered the front so the crossmember was resting on a piano dolly, then lift the car with 2 suv jacks on both sides of the car. After it was high enough I just rolled the engine, tranny, crossmember unit, out of the way. Then I placed the front of the car on jack stands.
#48
Why would you want to go through all of that work! I've pulled many engines out from the top. It takes on the average about 2.5 hours and you don't have to remove the hood! I made a lifting plate that bolts where the valley cover would. Hook up the engine hoist with a three link chain and out it comes.
#52
FireHawk441, I'm not trying to come across the wrong way by any means but...coming out of the bottom is alot easier. Ask anyone who has done it both ways and they will tell you, no doubt. All dealer manuals, shop guides, and everything that has a "how-to" for professionals that I have ever seen says the bottom, not one from the top.
Like I said, I'm not trying to come across as a dick, just do me a favor and try it one time out of the bottom, you can thank me later.
Like I said, I'm not trying to come across as a dick, just do me a favor and try it one time out of the bottom, you can thank me later.
#53
I took mine out the top. It sucked. I put it back in the bottom. I was running in 3 hours from the time we bolted it to the K-frame. The subframe was setting on two wheel dollys and used a cherry picker to lift the car.
#54
Originally Posted by Firehawk441
Why would you want to go through all of that work! I've pulled many engines out from the top. It takes on the average about 2.5 hours and you don't have to remove the hood! I made a lifting plate that bolts where the valley cover would. Hook up the engine hoist with a three link chain and out it comes.
I have done both and pulling it from under is much easier and the way to go (especially with a lift).
#55
I to have done it both ways. I do this 6 and sometimes 7 days a week. this is what I do for a living. I agree that GM says take it out the bottem. I 've read the procedure. I also have business associates who have worked for dealerships. I also have spoke to other friends and businesses who also would much rather take it out the top. We obviously don't know the same people. Different strokes for different folks, right? We also do C-5's the same way. Nice talking to you. Good luck with future projects. Glad were're not disscussing how to remove engines from a FORD!
#56
Why would you want to go through all of that work! I've pulled many engines out from the top. It takes on the average about 2.5 hours and you don't have to remove the hood! I made a lifting plate that bolts where the valley cover would. Hook up the engine hoist with a three link chain and out it comes.
#57
We just pulled the engine out of the bottom yesterday. Took 2.5 hours total... but thankfully I had the use of a lift and air tools. I was shocked at how smoothly it went being the first time doing something this involved.
#58
I went directly to the last page of this thread, so if someone has already posted this, sorry.
I'd highly recommend buying the reference book, "How To Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s" by Will Handzell, published by CARTECH. There are 3 chapters, profusely illustrated, about dropping the engine/tranny out the bottom of: F-Bodies, 'Vettes, & Trucks/SUVs.
The guys in my local car club all agree that you can pull an LT1/LS1 out the top, but if you have access to a lift, dropping everything out the bottom on the K-member is much easier and faster. The book gives a few shortcuts so you don't have to do stuff like drain the A/C or power steering, and how to disconnect the torque arm so you can drop the engine/tranny as one unit, which is supposed to save a lot of time.
I'm doing a heads/cam/clutch/intake job this winter. The owner of a local speed shop (bought the parts from him) and 4 or 5 guys from the car club are gonna help me with the project. They're a great crew, and have lots of experience dropping LT1/LS1 engines out the bottom. Since I have a lift, I might as well use the recommended method, and go out the bottom, instead of out the top.
The pictures/text in the engine removal chapters are very clear, and it looks like a straightforward job, as long as you don't rush and get ahead of yourself. To me, the hardest part looks like it'll be re-aligning the k-member/shock tower stuff, and lowering the car back onto the k-member with everything aligned.
Anyway, installing the AFR heads, new cam, FAST intake & 90 mm TB, Z06 MAF, and the clutch should be fairly easy...especially since I'll have so much experienced help. Once the parts are in, a few of the computer-smart guys are going to data-log and part-throttle tune the PCM. Then she goes on the dyno for fine-tuning and WOT tuning. We'll be using HPTuners.
I'd highly recommend buying the reference book, "How To Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s" by Will Handzell, published by CARTECH. There are 3 chapters, profusely illustrated, about dropping the engine/tranny out the bottom of: F-Bodies, 'Vettes, & Trucks/SUVs.
The guys in my local car club all agree that you can pull an LT1/LS1 out the top, but if you have access to a lift, dropping everything out the bottom on the K-member is much easier and faster. The book gives a few shortcuts so you don't have to do stuff like drain the A/C or power steering, and how to disconnect the torque arm so you can drop the engine/tranny as one unit, which is supposed to save a lot of time.
I'm doing a heads/cam/clutch/intake job this winter. The owner of a local speed shop (bought the parts from him) and 4 or 5 guys from the car club are gonna help me with the project. They're a great crew, and have lots of experience dropping LT1/LS1 engines out the bottom. Since I have a lift, I might as well use the recommended method, and go out the bottom, instead of out the top.
The pictures/text in the engine removal chapters are very clear, and it looks like a straightforward job, as long as you don't rush and get ahead of yourself. To me, the hardest part looks like it'll be re-aligning the k-member/shock tower stuff, and lowering the car back onto the k-member with everything aligned.
Anyway, installing the AFR heads, new cam, FAST intake & 90 mm TB, Z06 MAF, and the clutch should be fairly easy...especially since I'll have so much experienced help. Once the parts are in, a few of the computer-smart guys are going to data-log and part-throttle tune the PCM. Then she goes on the dyno for fine-tuning and WOT tuning. We'll be using HPTuners.
#59
Good advice in that book, I got some of my info from there but there are still some other shortcuts they missed. I'm not sure which ones right off hand but they're on the right track IMO. Glad to see so many involved in this thread, I will be alot more active after Christmas when I have a little more free time.
#60
hmm well anyone live in houston that wants to lend a helping hand that has done it before...i got plenty of the beer part for after...i gotta pull out the lt in 2 weeks and go pick up the ls1 in austin and then put it in that next weekend...also trying to find a cherry picker to borrow...dont really want to spend 300 on somethin ill be using twice