2000_LS1

Go ahead and get ya some Comp R's. 875-15 is te part number.

LSonederfull

If you collapsed lifter on the swap and it has air trapped in it, you may have to drive vehicle for a while and allow it to fill with oil by revving motor across the rpm ranges. If you ever turn motor over with valvetrain assembled and tight it will bleed lifters and it will be noisy for a while. Try this before changing lifters, it should quiet right down after decent drive.

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

That sounds much better. Ok, I took everythnig apart all the way to the begining. I reinstalled everything perfect, I triple checked everything. Got all the timing cover, pulley, waterpump, belts, Condensor, & radiator all finished. Then I started with the pushrods. Every single one went in so smooth, Pushed each lifter back down, without any force. I thought for sure that would fix the problem. I got all the rocker arms torqued back down to 22lbs. Fill it up with all the fluids, & start it up. To my surprise no ticking. I thought for sure it was fixed. Now its starting back, just a little bit at idle, & it ticks real good and loud with the more gas you give it. I tried the stethascope (speeling) again. Theres no single place the noise is coming from, it sounds about like its all over the motor. I dont know what else to do. Im beging to wonder if I should have ever took out my 231/237. Is there any way I can tell whats wrong with it, I didnt want to remove the heads but I guess I jsut may have to. I guess Ill just get over it & drive it till it quits. Anybody have a soulution?

Jim Mills

Honestly you have to pull the heads..... Put in some lifters and be done with it. And as the little devil on my shoulder always says... while they are off you might as well.... You know the rest.

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Well I would if I knew that was the problem. The thing is I drove the car to my shop, no ticking no nothing. Took it apart, Pulled the cam, & oil pump. Then I waited 3 days for my new cam to get here. It got here I installed everything on the 5th day. Had it running but with a ticking noise. Now how is it possible for the lifters to go bad in 4 days when the car was fine on the way there & it has not moved, turned over or anything in 4 days. Thats why im not pulling the heads yet.

Black Sunshine/ 00SS

iTrader: (1)

If it's coming from all over, I'd say it's the lifters or the rockers. Stock rockers, right?
I have the same thing going on with my new motor, and I checked everything in the valvetrain, can't find what it is. I have new lifters (stock) and used stock rockers off my original motor.
The engine builder tells me that it is valvetrain related. I could tighten up the rockers to take up some of the valvetrain slack, and eliminate some of the sound, but at the expense of lost upper RPM's.
Sounds like you've done all that you can do, and I'm willing to be that even if you switch to a different lifter, you'll still have the same problem. Maybe a different lifter and an adjustable rocker such as the Jessel, will solve the problem. Good luck.

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Yeah its the stock rocker arms. I was reading on a search that there have been a couple of cases where the oil pump o-ring was causing the noise. How is that possible? I have no oil pressure issues?

2000_LS1

Let us know!!!

1QuickT-A

iTrader: (12)

I'm betting on the lifters myself. Get some OEM lifters from GM and be done with it.

2000_LS1

OEM??? Pm me, I have some for sale, I might part with a set of 875-15 Comps NIB for the right price.

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Ok, I replaced the o-ring on the pick up tube, re-torqued all the rocker arms & checked every other thing possible. Now the ticking is only there when I give it gas.It almost sounds like its the timing chain hitting something, But I know that isnt possible. The timing chain makes my car sound like a blowwer. Whay is that, is it normal? Im all out of ideas, looks like Ill have to replace the lifters next. Unless anyone has another solution? I can get a video if that would help.

Vann

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Alright I still havent found my ticking. So looks like Im puling the oil pump & timing chain back off & putting the stockers back on. I think Ive narrowed it down to there. Its coming from the bottom/front of the engine. Anybody ever have problems with the LS2 timing chain or the Ported LS6 pump?

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

Can you make and post a video of your motor running? I'd love to hear what your ticking sound actually sounds like.

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Ill post it up this afternoon.

2000_LS1

An audio clip would probably help alot.

topfuelman

iTrader: (6)

I believe you need to measure your preload on your pushrods with an adjustable pushrod, and then order the correct length of pushrod. You can shoot for 35-65 thou (depending on lifter make) cold and your ticking should go away.

It turns out I had a 231/7 tsp stick and the 7.4's PR's they sent me with a .054 stock gasket/no milled heads yielded the same tick you are talking about. When I measured*** (highly reccomended) the pushrods were actually preloading 100+ thou cold. I ended up with a totally different combo in the end, but with about 50-60 thou preload cold, (shorter pushrods) the engine ticks no more!

Check it out before you do any more pulling apart!

my 2cents

T

2000_LS1

That cam isn't big enough to cause that is it?

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Sounds like good advice I have some stock 7.350's you think those would do the trick?

Also- I installed my old 231/237 on my buddies car last night. & what do yuo know it ticks also. I just dont understand, Ive done about 6 cam swaps before these tow & never had the 1st problem. Until the last two. Heres what I did to his, disassembled everything, spun the cam, inserted my 5/16 wooden dowels, Removed the stock cam, inserted the new one, did the dot to dot, then reinstalled everything. Swa[ed out the springs for patriot gold duals, Inserted the 7.4 pr's torqued the rocker arms down twice. Then fikked it up with fluids. Went to start it up, perefect no ticking no noise. except for one plug wire that was jumping fire. After the 3rd start up it starts making a ticking sound. & its still ticking, just like a loud *** sewing machine. Is it possible that his pushrods are to long? The car has stock heads, stock gaskets, stock everything, except for the cam, springs, pr's. Now what could be causing his tick?

topfuelman

iTrader: (6)

I would measure it for your answer.
The adjustable pushrod is available from most performance parts shops. It's not expensive and it is easy to do. I ended up using 7.35's but my combination uses .035 cometics and shaved 5.3 heads, Rhoads roller lifters, and a custom ground cam by EDC.

T

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Ok, I think I finally figured it out. This past time when I swap cams, this is the first time I used a torch to heat the pulley up to slide it on the crank, Well I go tit heated & slid it all the way on, Well I guess the pulley went to far. I pulled it this afternoon, then heated it, then slid it half way on. & torqued it the rest of the way. Seems to have worked out just fine. So far no ticking, other than the normal LS1 sounds. Thanks for all the suggestions & replies.

Vann

BTW- My buddies car also quit ticking. He called me this morning & said he's been driving it all morning & has no more ticking, it just quit on its on.