davis80

iTrader: (2)

Place called Fastenal in Marietta. It's really close to the intersection of Franklin and Delk, in the area of Dave & Busters.

I got a 3' section of the threaded rod, 25 washers, 25 nuts for a grand total of $16. Would've been cheaper but I had to buy full packs of washers and nuts. No biggie though.

If you'd like a chunk of it for $1 come on up to my house in Acworth this weekend and pick one up. You can hang around and drink free beers if you help me with my H/C swap that I'm starting this Friday.

davis80

iTrader: (2)

Not sure of the grade, I'll check the label on it to see if it's listed. I can get pics of it tonight as well.

I'm not too worried about the quality because if this thing is bottomed out in the crank threads I don't see any way of it pulling all the threads off the damn thing. That's just me though, could be wrong.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

It's only a dumb question if you ask it AFTER you screw something up, not before. I like to use a BIG allen head cap screw to get the pulley off once I have the stock bolt out. You put a couple of flat washers with an OD slightly smaller than the crank diameter under the head of the allen head cap screw. You put the allen screw with the flat washers in where you just removed the old bolt. The pullers center rod bucks right up into the allen head of the allen head cap screw and thereby becomes self-centering. You then use the longer bolt to get your new ASP pulley started onto the crankshaft. Once it is most of the way on you can remove the longer bolt and bring it HOME with your new OEM bolt. The longer bolt doesn't put that much of a strain on the crank threads since you are using a lot more threads with a bolt 120mm long. It gives sufficient purchase and when you first start the pulley onto the crank the resistance is small. The force required to bring the puley HOME is never that great even towards the end of its' travel and if it does become excessive your doing something wrong and should STOP immediately.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

I just put the pulley in the oven at 200 degrees for an hour and it will slip most of the way on the crank. No need for a longer bolt.

Trust me it works.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

I use the oven too but the pulley doesn't go on far enough to make me feel comfortable with just those few threads to pull it on...so I use the long bolt and crank it on with that..

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Kool I'll take ya up on that...PM me your number and I'll give ya a call ..what kind of heads are you using??

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

Is the ARP crank bolt the longer bolt as well? Or is it just reusable and that's the benefit?

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

Anyone, I'm guessing it's just reusable and the normal size.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

It's longer and reusable.

code4

iTrader: (30)

That's where I get mine, you must be buying a low grade. Be careful using that bolt.

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

I heat all the ones I do with a small torch. You can buy them at Ace, Homedepot, walmart & etc. All it is a the small bottle torch used for soldering copper. I can heat the end of the pulley up for around 3-4 mins & it will slide all the way in place. Works everytime.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

It appears that some of you guys that favor this OVEN method spent too much time in the Boy Scouts being forced to find creative ways to cook during overnite camping trips. It's a waste of good time better spent doing other things like putting the front cover back on since you ALREADY have your new ASP pulley installed and your not waiting around for the pilot lite on your oven to ignite. Then again, you probably didn't read "Zen and the Art of Motorcycyle Mechanics" either, which by the way should be REQUIRED reading for anyone turning a wrench. Once you guys read this book LS1Tech will become a more insightful and less mundane website.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Thanks for your insightfull post. The name of the book is Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance. I did read that book and found it quite enjoyable. Also I have never been a boy scout.

The oven method is just an issue of timing. I for one can multi-task. I can put the pulley in the oven and go about other tasks anticipating the time when it is ready. Or I may want to use this time for a beer. Either way the job gets done.

Can you instruct me on how to put the front cover on after the pulley is installed? My mundane understanding is that the cover seals arond the crank. At least I thought that was the purpose of the seal in the cover. Then the pulley is installed on the end of the crank. You seem to have a way to avoid the whole one part is on top of the other law of nature.

Thanks.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

I wanna hear this one...

sunsetta

iTrader: (3)

Heat does work, but have you ever considered what this heat does to the rubber portion of the crank seal in the timing cover. It ruins it. I used the old crank bolt and kept stacking 5/8" washers on it to keep it from bottoming out in the crank. It works great. You have to start with a few and add more as you go. Try this trick.

Z28SSMAN

iTrader: (2)

Here's the PN for the longer bolt from NAPA: 2801-225
The washer PN is 8071-035B.

When I gave the counterguy the PN's, he gave me a strange stare and asked what they were for. He found the bolt right away, but gave me the wrong washers.

These PN's were on a LS1 site from a while ago.

Hope this helps.

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

I just went to a bolt place near me and used the dimenions for the bolt on LS1howto.com and got the right bolt.

gearheads78

iTrader: (29)

You have to look but they are outn there. I called 6 industrial supply places before I found one in stock today. I have always used the all thread method on LT1's but could not find anyone with M16 all thread. This bolt will get the job done.

Louis

iTrader: (7)

the engine gets 240+ oil temps, I bet the pully rubber is somewhere near that. Ambient, being 70-90*, heating the pully up to 250* will not cook the rubber at all and works just fine. Put it in the oven about the time you pick up the front cover to install it on the car


Also, for you guys that are installing ASPs as replacements, they have the first portion of the pully machined such that it slides right on, then it tapers back down for a press fit. no need for a longer bolt.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

There is a small shallow step on the inside of the pulley bore, but it is only approx 1/4th" deep. That ain't much. Maybe 2 threads on a bolt that is 16mm X 2mm. With those coarse threads and that shallow step your not going to gain much and for the cost of a 120mm bolt it's cheap insurance, especially for the guys that are doing this swap for the first time.