Need Advise on Cam and setup
I have decided that I want to keep the stock stall or at least a small stall no higher than a 2800. If I can keep the stock it will be more affordable I think.
Also, I am going for a mild cam that will get me at least 30 RWHP more (the more the better).
I will be putting new lifters in (undecided but the shop wants to use Comp R but I may suggest Comp 750 or 850 not sure which it is).
I also would like to rev higher to take advantage of a Cam so springs or rockers or whatever should be considered.
I plan on doing ALL work that I might and will need One time. So, anything like oil pump or timing chain or gaskets, or anything else that I might need has to be figured out.
If anyone can offer advise or suggestions on what they know or think will work and what I will require to do it right the first time please let me know.
Last edited by ActionJack; Jul 29, 2005 at 07:16 PM.
Any suggestions (even if you would not do it) would help.
I like how we have (in JRPs sticky) a chart showing stalls and all and I had asked about the F4... still waiting.
I do not know enough about this cam but if it will work best with a stock stall then I definately want to know more. Also, when the cam is chanegd I need t know what extra costs, like lifter and gaskets and such.
Do you know what kind of HP gains I could see from a CheatR cam???
Here's a good thread to look at, or just search the forum for "CheaTR Cam":
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/359084-those-considering-cheatr-cam.html
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Here's a good thread to look at, or just search the forum for "CheaTR Cam":
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=359084
The CheatR looks like a possible. What about Futural?
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Problem with any cam, even the small ones is idle speed. Most cams will need to idle 650-700 rpm in drive. The bigger cams like the FMS F-13s need more like 800-900 rpm idle speed. That's a problem. With a stock torque converter, you'll be having to hold the brakes hard all the time if you raise your idle enough to smooth out an aftermarket cam. Try brake torquing your motor to 800 rpm in drive with the stock converter. That's what it will be like all the time with a bigger cam and a stock converter.
My suggestion: get a Pro Yank 3400 or a Vigilante 2800. Both stall around 3200 rpm (the Yank's rated for nitrous), then your options will be much greater as far as cam choice goes. As far as the CheaTR's concerned, it's a nasty little cam and is most stealthy with an 800 rpm idle. It will have a pretty good lope at lower rpm. Not a great candidate for a stock converter IMO.

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Problem with any cam, even the small ones is idle speed. Most cams will need to idle 650-700 rpm in drive. The bigger cams like the FMS F-13s need more like 800-900 rpm idle speed. That's a problem. With a stock torque converter, you'll be having to hold the brakes hard all the time if you raise your idle enough to smooth out an aftermarket cam. Try brake torquing your motor to 800 rpm in drive with the stock converter. That's what it will be like all the time with a bigger cam and a stock converter.
My suggestion: get a Pro Yank 3400 or a Vigilante 2800. Both stall around 3200 rpm (the Yank's rated for nitrous), then your options will be much greater as far as cam choice goes. As far as the CheaTR's concerned, it's a nasty little cam and is most stealthy with an 800 rpm idle. It will have a pretty good lope at lower rpm. Not a great candidate for a stock converter IMO.
Thanks for jumping in on this one

Since I have no plans for nitrous and if anything a turbo I think the TC could be a better choice until I get the money saved. The TC also seems a bigger issue with the cam as well. Besides, if I do a turbo then I can pick the cam then and get one designed for a turbo.
The Cam is gonna wait until I try a TC and finish with my springs and shocks.
I will check out the Vigilante.
Thanks all.




