DBeck

iTrader: (3)

Which Cam is the best? Why?

1. Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft - 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA with 1700-6600 RPM Power Band.

or

2. Thunder Racing Custom "Reverse Split" Camshaft - 230/224 .575/.563 111 LSA with 2200-6800 RPM Power Band.

DBeck

iTrader: (3)

personally I think I am goin to go with number 1

rtr2001ss

iTrader: (2)

I bought the TR224, not installed yet. I got it, cause I figured it fit my application best.

blkZ28spt

Read the cam guide, and search. PLEASE.

I wouldn't vote for either one, I'd go bigger. At least 230 or so sounds about right. It all depends on your application, tollerances, and specific goals. You list absolutely NOTHING else so nobody can give you jack for real advice.

FUN LS1

What he said...

Why would you opt for a reverse split on an LS1 (option 2), given the smaller exhaust valve diameter vs the intake valve diameter? I can see picking a smaller or larger Intake duration based on forced or N/A. Seems like a big reverse split would be something for a stock intake set up coupled with LTs and Open Cutouts. Wouldn't this rob a bunch of low-end torque while adding a little to max hp, and also push the power band way up? We need a lot more info about your set up and goals to a) pick the best of these two cams, and b) tell which cams you might want to consider as alternatives.

I agree completely with the duration advice. I'm looking at the F13 (230/232 .59x/.58x 112+4). There are a lot of 230-ish cams out there, and you have a ton of lobe profiles (ramp rate agressive or not, [ADV duration @ .004/6 - duration at .050 = ramp duration]; 50s-fast 60s-normal) to choose from.

DBeck

iTrader: (3)

Exactly. I am only asking what people would choose, or what they have choosen and why they did. I am already pretty sure I am goin with #1 because I am using mine as a daily driver.

blkZ28spt

People don't know what to put for what they would choose because:

1) You only gave them two choices
2) They are very simlier in size, just different patterns.
3) You didn't list what your goals and tolerances were. You didn't even list what transmission, converter, gears, etc you have!
4) Most importantly, other people aren't you and cam selection varies widely from one person to another, even for the exact same setup and use.

I'd go single pattern or traditional split, choosing based solely on how it's patterned.

Mine is my daily driver 24/7/365 in the middle of Indiana. I have a 4k stall converter and the TSP MS3 (237/242 .603/.609 113). Why dont you go that route?

DBeck

iTrader: (3)

well I dont intend on adding alot of other mods with the cam. I want a cam I can use without a bunch of other mods. I wouldnt mind having to add a couple things, but I want somthing that I can use for daily driving. I'm all about going higher, like 230 etc. But I need to be able to keep it streeable.

DBeck

iTrader: (3)

Ok, this might be a stupid question, but what is a 4k stall converter?

blkZ28spt

lol.

I take it you have an automatic? Do a search for converter, stall speed, etc in the automatic transmission section. My torque converter stalls to approximately 4,000 rpm. This means that at WOT I am never below 4k rpm. (in reality i'm virtually never below ~5500) If you do have an A4 you must get a converter before a cam. This is non negotiable.

You can also try www.howstuffworks.com. They have a good writup on torque converters.

Slacker

The TR230 & TR224 have been around for awhile now & alot of people have made good power with both of them. If your planning to stay NA the TR230 is a good choice it make about 10+ more HP. The Torque curve is pretty close, Do some searches there's some dyno run's posted with those cams on there. I run the TR227 which is on a 114 due to my auto, If I did it again I would go with the TR230. The reverser split cams have lost there hype, but they have there place. There's alot of good cams out there, My bro (SlickVert) has made some good times with his FM113. Use the search & figure out what your goals are.

PREDATOR-Z

Besides Slacker, the other suggestions and understanding of what is a reverse split is for the most part false.Probably because they never ran one and just do not understand them.
Anyways, total balanced combo is what you should seek for the power range and use of the car.
Bigger is not always better, I make 404rwhp on a 224/220 (Stealth II) A4 + bolt ons and 3200 stall. With my new heads (install in process) I think I will reach close to 430rwhp. Not bad for a stockish behaving cam, no surging, bucking, etc...

The TR 224 is one of the best "All around cam"
The TR230 is worth 10+ more rwhp and with heads even more.

I think you would be really pleased with the TR224 on a 112+4 with a good tune (the tune makes or breaks a cam potential).

FUN LS1

You're right, I haven't run a reverse split cam, and obviously do not understand the purpose of a big reverse split. That's why I made it a question. Please help me get what's false about the questions above, so I can understand. Why not "cast a few pearls before the swine?"

FiveSevenEagle

tried 224 before and i liked it so so much especially when u tune it properly , out off ur options i`d go with the single pattern 224 cam , just like what FUN LS1 said i dont understand the purpose of big reverse split cam ... if it is my choice id go with a bigger cam , but it is all ur choice ... and as said zillion of times all over this forum , there is many factors that determines ur choice , Idle , daily driving , power range .. street /strip ...

if it is my choice i`d go with a bigger cam ,
i remember when i decided to go with 224 , i was pain in the *** in this forum asking everybody about their opinion , and finally i decided to go with it and it did very well ..
one more thing u have to know , there is proven cams like that u`ll never regret when u get them .. u can find a list in JRP`S CAM GUIDE ..

i tried 221 ,224 , F11 , F13 , G5X3 , and i had that huge increase in both HP and torq .. what am trying to say again .. check the suitable drivability , idle , Vs power under the curve .. i repeat power under the curve !!

PREDATOR-Z

From my experience with them I found :

More intake duration = bigger charge (obvious)
They like higher compression (more chamber pressures)
Unlike most rumors, they make quite a lot of trq down low
They like to carry that power up in rpms
Unlike rumors they do like nitrous with a wider lsa (less overlap) while the opposite is true with traditionals. (relative to its VE's)

So basicaly like it has been said many times before, COMBO is where it is at.

FUN LS1

OK, thanks. I also re-read the cam Discussion II again, and saw the turbo applications. I understand the principles of the wave functions, but I haven't put it all together yet. I'll have to read a few more times...
I'm not worthy...

DBeck

iTrader: (3)

Actually I have a 6 spd. I really never heard of these converters.

gollum

iTrader: (1)

With stock heads and 3.73 gear the 224 is best.

With good ported heads, larger MAF, larger throttle body and 3.73-4.10 gear the 230 is best.

baddogz28

iTrader: (6)

I like my TSP 233/239.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

I voted for #1. It is a benchmark cam. I don't care what your combo is, the 224/224 112 has been proven to work with just about any set-up. I'm not saying there aren't better choices once you have all the details, only that performance/drivability of that cam is top notch and rarely is anyone disappointed by it for a street car.