Temperature reduction plan
08-10-2005, 03:39 PM
#1
Temperature reduction plan Alright, to begin with, my LS1 is in a 1986 RX7. Fairly small engine bay, so the engine tends to run a little warm (not terribly, I sit at about 190* peak on my water temp). I do however seem to be running my oil rather hot.
The oil pressure on the car is about 45 PSI on a cold start (cold meaning 80* outside). Once the car gets up to temperature it drops to ~25 psi at a 1000 RPM idle (still tuning the cam). It has new bearings, and the tolerances are toward the looser end, but still well within spec, so the 25-30 psi hot pressure isn't unexpected. I also have an unshimmed ported oil pump, which research shows pushes more volume, but tends to lower actual pressure. I run nothing but german castrol 0w40 in the car.
I don't believe I'm anywhere near exceeding the capacity of my coolant system, as it runs right at 190* in traffic or on the highway, so I'm going to duct it a little better and leave that portion alone.
My direct plan is to install a remote mount filter adapter, route it up to a dual filter pedestal, then from there route it up to a LARGE seperate oil cooler in front of the radiator (the RX7 has an EXCELLENT one stock from the super-hot running rotary), then plumb it back up to the return on the adapter.
As I see it this should increase my capacity by well over a quart, and dramatically drop my oil temperatures, thus keeping everything cooler, and in theory bring my oil pressure up a tad as well.
FWIW, my pressure scales well even when hot. 4000 RPM is ~50+ psi of pressure, and 6500 RPM (shift point) is ~70+ psi. I would just like to cool everything down, and hopefully bump the pressure up 5-7 psi throughout.
Anyone have any input/advice on this? I'm still learning the LS1, so input is greatly appreciated-
Thanks!
-Blake
The oil pressure on the car is about 45 PSI on a cold start (cold meaning 80* outside). Once the car gets up to temperature it drops to ~25 psi at a 1000 RPM idle (still tuning the cam). It has new bearings, and the tolerances are toward the looser end, but still well within spec, so the 25-30 psi hot pressure isn't unexpected. I also have an unshimmed ported oil pump, which research shows pushes more volume, but tends to lower actual pressure. I run nothing but german castrol 0w40 in the car.
I don't believe I'm anywhere near exceeding the capacity of my coolant system, as it runs right at 190* in traffic or on the highway, so I'm going to duct it a little better and leave that portion alone.
My direct plan is to install a remote mount filter adapter, route it up to a dual filter pedestal, then from there route it up to a LARGE seperate oil cooler in front of the radiator (the RX7 has an EXCELLENT one stock from the super-hot running rotary), then plumb it back up to the return on the adapter.
As I see it this should increase my capacity by well over a quart, and dramatically drop my oil temperatures, thus keeping everything cooler, and in theory bring my oil pressure up a tad as well.
FWIW, my pressure scales well even when hot. 4000 RPM is ~50+ psi of pressure, and 6500 RPM (shift point) is ~70+ psi. I would just like to cool everything down, and hopefully bump the pressure up 5-7 psi throughout.
Anyone have any input/advice on this? I'm still learning the LS1, so input is greatly appreciated-
Thanks!
-Blake
08-10-2005, 04:27 PM
#2
You can get a 160* stat and reprogram the fans to kick on at that temp. The oil cooler is a good idea too. I put a ported ls6 oil pump in when I built my new moter and the psi is 10 to 15 higher at idle and the hole way through the rpm range. good luck
08-10-2005, 05:27 PM
#3
Just a thought. The side vents behind the front tires on 98-02 Firebirds were put there to help remove hot underhood air. The earlier TA's with the big 400-455 engines also had these hot air excape vents. Supposedly the outside air flowing around car would create a vacume in this location and suck out hot underhood air.
Last edited by gollum; 08-10-2005 at 09:07 PM.
08-10-2005, 05:36 PM
#4
You can remove the rubber moulding seal under the hood and in front of cowl intake/windshield, but cabin temps will get hotter. The negetive pressure area at lower front of windshield while driving will suck out hot air from under hood..
Last edited by gollum; 08-10-2005 at 06:08 PM.
08-10-2005, 10:06 PM
#5
Conan,
I'd bet your pump is shimmed though, most are from the porter, with a small washer or two internally, it ups the release pressure.
A 160 stat is planned this winter as well. I've got HP Tuners, so fan adjustment is gravy.
Gollum,
I don't think the venting would work with the body work that I have, although I'll look into perhaps adjust my brake ducts for a similiar purpose.
I have already removed the rear seals on the hood, though I may... and I cringe at the thought, go the way of the ricers and kick the back of my hood up an inch or so with spacers. They do it as a "drift" thing, but I'd have to think my underhood temps would drop with a cowl effect like that. I'll have to at least test it. I just hate being associated with the "drift crowd"
Thanks for the ideas and input guys! Keep 'em comin!
I'd bet your pump is shimmed though, most are from the porter, with a small washer or two internally, it ups the release pressure.
A 160 stat is planned this winter as well. I've got HP Tuners, so fan adjustment is gravy.
Gollum,
I don't think the venting would work with the body work that I have, although I'll look into perhaps adjust my brake ducts for a similiar purpose.
I have already removed the rear seals on the hood, though I may... and I cringe at the thought, go the way of the ricers and kick the back of my hood up an inch or so with spacers. They do it as a "drift" thing, but I'd have to think my underhood temps would drop with a cowl effect like that. I'll have to at least test it. I just hate being associated with the "drift crowd"
Thanks for the ideas and input guys! Keep 'em comin!
