redbanditz28

Well i am looking to make serious hp and torque. Like some where near 750-800 rwhp. I currently own a 98 LS1 z28 Camaro. I have talked to a guy at a website. He said that i can obtain that much power street legally and pass inspection by buying a 427 cu in LS2 block. He said it comes with about 550 rwhp stock and i can add NOS onto it to achieve the 750 rwhp range easily and it would cause less ware on the engine. He also mentioned that i could buy a low compression LS2 427 for less and add a charger of some type to achieve that. I gotta admit, it would seem nice to tell people that i have a 427 cu in LS2 under the hood and the engine itself without power adders is making 550 rwhp. If thats true. But i would miss having the LS1 engine. Its been good to me. But it would cost me more money to fix my engine up to handle the stress of a turbo than it would for me to just buy a completely new block that would make more power to begin with. In essence, i would be starting from a higher point. What do you guys think? Is it a oood idea? Also, you think i should go with the 427 Ls2 that already has the 550 rwhp and just add nos or get the low compressioned 427 and add a turbocharger? I'd love some feedback.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

hope you got some serious cash laying around


I've been dreaming of doing this for a while......

and its just a dream....

427 long block = about 10,000$
procharger= 6,000$
fuel system = 2,400
bolt ons= 4,000
chassis = 2,000
supension = 2,300


given those are estimates and that would be about what it would take to make a full car.

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

Agreed. Just because it is NA HP as opposed to a Turboed FI car that doesnt mean there is going to be less stress on the rest of the components of the car such as transmission, rear end, suspension, etc. With that much HP your def gonna need at least a new 12-bolt to make the most of that power and some good tires, maybe nittos. What are your goals for your car and is it mostly for the street or is it going to be strictly a track car? If you look around the sponsor websites you can find some real nice forged short blocks for around 3000-3500, then all you need are your heads, cam, intake mainifold, etc. Then you could spray a 200+ HP shot. The engine alone should make 400+ rwhp if built with some good heads and a big cam, then spray and your at 600+ rwhp, which isnt too far off from your goals. I have been considering the same thing with my 98 z28 and the cost of the ls2 427 is just way too much for me. Good luck though with whatever you choose!

PREDATOR-Z

Forget 800rwhp, you'll just kill yourself. You guys talk about HP's like you are eating candy, if you eat too much, your stomach will hurt.
have you ever driven 800 rwhp???
That is a low 9 sec car and even in racing you need to be licenced to drive that.
And a sleeved 427 to handle that much nitrous, you'll need to be a tuning wizard.
Please come back to earth.
(sorry but I couldn't help it)

BTW you'll need at least $30K to make a durable setup (car) like that.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

I have been crunching these numbers my self lately and i even have some of the parts needed... and it still is just so far away its rediculous....

i believe im going with a high CR 408 with N20 just like several others.

long block 408 = 7,000$ i found very good price
and the nitrous stuff im getting for my 346 will swap out easily


yes it would be fun to have a turbo car but... shiiiiit way too much cash right now no matter how you look at it...

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

MID wet sleeved LS1 block > than ALL other LS_ derivatives.........

Wet 1

iTrader: (4)

Why do you say that? Can you back it up? I'm getting ready for a build myself...

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

the LS2 at this point is only a dry sleeve.......LS1 MID is a wet sleeve......

Darton HAS perfected the dry sleeve so it will not leak, BUT it is still a dry sleeve......

wet sleeves have much better thermal transfer to the coolant (because the iron cylinder isn't insulated by an aluminum jacket.....it is in direct contact with the coolant)........

I can't say if the wets are stronger than the drys (material strength wise) because I think they are cast from the same material (ask Steve at R.E.D. .....he is the guy who would be doing either as HE designed them and knows all kinds of stuff....not to mention his is a really good guy ).....but either Darton sleeve is FARRRRRRRRRRRRRR stronger than either the stock LS1 liner or even the C5R liner (both are cast from gray iron which is MUCH weaker).....(again....don't believe me.....ask Steve....he has metallurgical tests of the materials to prove both).....

also realize that you have an LS1 already.......so your car is wired up for an LS1 to go right back in.....you can keep all your parts (timing cover, valley cover, double roller chain, etc.....whatever you have)......

GM added mass in some areas of the LS2 and had to then take mass out of other places......those places that the mass (aluminum) got removed were places that it would be nice to keep mass in (structural area).....though probably not a big deal it's just another reason I like the LS1.......

finally, I have the wet sleeve LS1........from day one this block setup has performed flawlessly (as it has for people running WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY more HP than I ever will).......I may worry about a pushrod bending or melting a piston but I NEVER give a moments worry about the block........

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

Something like this? (From Strictly Performance's website)

http://www.spmotorsports.net/crazybird.mpeg

That would be too scary to drive