Cam Install problems, please help.
I imagine that you are going to follow the guide for the re-installation of your heads. So, my advice to you is to be sure that you torque them down in the correct sequence, as it should state in the manual. Grab a marker and draw straight lines on the head bolts and follow the instructions on the sequence. This WILL save you more heartache.
I'm part way thru my cam install and this thread has scared the living sh*t outa me ... is there anyway to make sure that both your crank and cam are on TDC at the correct intervals?
AKA ... say I set the cam gear and crank gear dot to dot. Put the pushrods in, but not the rockers, and then leave the spark plugs out and put a straw or somethin in the #1 cylinder to verify when the piston is at TDC and by the motion of the Pushrods to see if the valves would be open or closed?
AKA ... say I set the cam gear and crank gear dot to dot. Put the pushrods in, but not the rockers, and then leave the spark plugs out and put a straw or somethin in the #1 cylinder to verify when the piston is at TDC and by the motion of the Pushrods to see if the valves would be open or closed?
If your going to do this job your going to pull the rocker covers anyway and that's a good time to find TDC for #1 on the compression stroke. Back to basics: I C C E is the 4 stroke cycle. You can watch the rockers for #1 to get into the ballpark and once your in the ballpark finding home plate shouldn't be that hard. Once the "I" rocker for #1 closes the piston is going to start to travel upward on the "C" (compression) stroke. I use a wooden chopstick to find TDC. 1/2"drive rachet in one hand and the chopstick in the other. Once the chopstick tells you you're at TDC you should be DOT to DOT or very close to it. If your not perfect when the chopstick stops moving vertically you can make the needed tiny turn of the crank to get exactly DOT to DOT. The plugs are already out I hope so turning the crank is easy. If you don't want to go through all that trouble you can just turn the crank and watch the dots if you have the front cover already removed. You can only be 100% right or 100% wrong. Your dots are either at 12 and 6 which is DOT to DOT OR 12 and 12 which is 100% wrong.
Last edited by eallanboggs; Aug 16, 2005 at 01:38 AM.
Cam dot at 6 or 12, it doesn't matter. As long as the crank dot is at 12, the installation of the cam will determine if it is at the top of compression or exhaust. Here you go. Put the crank dot at 12 and the cam dot at 12. Now pull the cam. Reinstall the cam with the cam dot at 6. IT DOESN'T MATTER. As long as the crank dot is at 12, you can reinstall the cam with the cam dot at 6 or 12. It's just easier to line them up with the cam dot at 6. You don't need to feel for TDC through the spark plug hole. JUST MAKE SURE THE CRANK DOT IS AT 12. That is the dot that is hard to see.
2XLS1 is right. Once the camshaft comes out the timing goes out the window with it. So as long as the crank DOT is at 12 you can put the DOT for the new cam at either 6 or 12. You will be at TDC on "E" stroke when the cam DOT is at 12 or at TDC on the "C" stroke when the cam DOT is at 6 as long as you do NOT move the crank. Either one is OK. I was just trying to keep things a little consistent since bent valves and even broken rockers can be the result if those two little seemingly insignifigant DOTs don't meet each other at the right point.
Originally Posted by SSDoubleK
Yes, I did not change the valve springs, they are stock...
That is your problem. My guess would be that the springs hit coil bind which = broken rockers. Broken rockers = bent valves. Bent valves = 1 messed up engine. LS1 Tech Stories
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I'm with 777 on this one. I did not catch that part. You were able to turn it over by hand because the push rod would slide in the lifter allowing a little more clearance. As soon as you started it oil pressue goes up and you have full lift which = coil bind. The hardend pushrods don't give so rockers break and you have your chain reaction from there.
Chalk this one up to expensive lesson learned. Good luck getting it back together. Post up if you are not sure of a step. Someone here can always help.
Chalk this one up to expensive lesson learned. Good luck getting it back together. Post up if you are not sure of a step. Someone here can always help.
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Originally Posted by gearheads78
I'm with 777 on this one. I did not catch that part. You were able to turn it over by hand because the push rod would slide in the lifter allowing a little more clearance. As soon as you started it oil pressue goes up and you have full lift which = coil bind. The hardend pushrods don't give so rockers break and you have your chain reaction from there.
someone want to enlighten the post with rocker arm tq procedures?
I was thinking 22ftlbs no sequential order.... They dont have any adjustments, so why would you need to go in a special order?
Originally Posted by 777
I guess you guys missed this. That is your problem. My guess would be that the springs hit coil bind which = broken rockers. Broken rockers = bent valves. Bent valves = 1 messed up engine.
That is your problem. My guess would be that the springs hit coil bind which = broken rockers. Broken rockers = bent valves. Bent valves = 1 messed up engine.What are the stock springs rated at?
It probably is coil bind as has been mentioned but it could also be that the new pushrods are too long (too much to read through again but did you say that you installed aftermarket pushrods?).
Steve
Steve 
I was also going to bring up the stock valvespring issue. Depending on the cam lift, the springs could reach coilbind. You would have been able to crank the motor by hand because the lifters were not all pumped up, but once they pumped up when you started the motor, you probably bound the springsand popped off the rockers.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 635
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From: Greenville PA
Okay, I have removed both heads, cleaned out all rad. fluid, used paper towels, and have found I have bent three vavles on the driverside and three on the passenger side really bad. Next question is found a large carbon buildup on the piston rings, so I cleaned them, hope that was okay. Also found something that has me wondering, piston rings have a circle in them, like the valves have hit them. Didn't seem like really a big cut into the rings, but enough to concern me. Is this okay?, or did I do more damage, hope I do not have to dig any deeper into the motor.. Thanx. 
Originally Posted by SSDoubleK
Next question is found a large carbon buildup on the piston rings, so I cleaned them, hope that was okay. Also found something that has me wondering, piston rings have a circle in them, like the valves have hit them. Didn't seem like really a big cut into the rings, but enough to concern me. Is this okay?, or did I do more damage, hope I do not have to dig any deeper into the motor.. Thanx.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 635
Likes: 1
From: Greenville PA
I understand what was hitting the piston ring, just needed advise on how deep of a cut was okay into the ring. Remember I'm asking for help and knowledge, not belittling, I'm no expert, but I cannot learn if I do not ask the question. Thanx 
I was not trying to belittle you. Reread your post. You were asking how you got circles on the piston tops. The top of the piston is not the rings.
Also found something that has me wondering, piston rings have a circle in them, like the valves have hit them.