Broke head bolt in block....HELP
08-19-2005, 02:15 PM
#21
Originally Posted by 99ssleeper
there wont be much holding the bolt in there because there shouldnt be any tension on the bolt...you may be able to spin it out pretty easy if the threads arent messed up.
If it was me, I'd get a screwdriver and a drill bit thats a little smaller than the tip of the screwdriver. I'd try drilling the bolt very carefully, then putting the screwdriver in the end and seeing if it can be pressed in enough to back the bolt out. Know what i mean?
I feel for ya since I know how stressful broken bolts and messed up threads can be.
If it was me, I'd get a screwdriver and a drill bit thats a little smaller than the tip of the screwdriver. I'd try drilling the bolt very carefully, then putting the screwdriver in the end and seeing if it can be pressed in enough to back the bolt out. Know what i mean?
I feel for ya since I know how stressful broken bolts and messed up threads can be.
or buy an eze-out
broken bolts have got to be the worst.......I would personally take a stripped thread hands down (usually).....
nothing is working.....may just have to suck up the $300.00 and have it towed anyways
08-19-2005, 04:46 PM
#27
Yeah, I got a hole drilled into it....I just went and bought some smaller easy outs....and Nino is on his way down....the same thing happened to him, and he got his bolt out, so we'll see, keep your fingers crossed or say a prayer for me will ya????
08-20-2005, 10:33 AM
#28
Well, we have drilled into the head bolt, broke 2 drill bits and an easy out. So today, I am running out to get a longer drill bit....will let you all know what happens.......oh, and just for good measure IF ANYONE DOES A HEAD AND CAM SWAP, USE HEAD STUDS!!!!! but then again, thats just my $.02..
08-21-2005, 06:08 AM
#29
Originally Posted by 99ssleeper
bolts work by tension. if they break there is no tension and youll be able to unsrew it by hand...unless the threads are messed up.
What I said was that as much force that he gave to break the bolt off it will take at least that much to bring the piece back out. It was friction that grabbed the business end of the bolt in the first place that made it twist and break off.
HASTINGSRJ
Get a good extractor, and I feel for you. you mat have some luck heating the block to enlarge the hole. I have no idea how though, and if you get someone to weld something on it wait until the bolt cools down before you try to extract it.
08-21-2005, 06:09 AM
#30
Originally Posted by HASTINGSRJ
Well, we have drilled into the head bolt, broke 2 drill bits and an easy out. So today, I am running out to get a longer drill bit....will let you all know what happens.......oh, and just for good measure IF ANYONE DOES A HEAD AND CAM SWAP, USE HEAD STUDS!!!!! but then again, thats just my $.02..
08-22-2005, 02:05 PM
#31
Originally Posted by vortec_7
**** it run it without one head bolt...what do you have to lose?
08-22-2005, 03:26 PM
#34
12 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Gateway International Raceway
Posts: 1,575
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/369369-head-cam-progress-swap-has-been-more-than-i-bargained.html
This is what I did to get my bolt out of the block
This is what I did to get my bolt out of the block
08-22-2005, 04:07 PM
#35
TECH Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That blows. I did not use the standard procedure for tork-to-yield bolts for my heads....
I just torked em to 40lbs, 50lbs, 60lbs 70lbs and finally 75lbs.....in a planned sequence from inner bolts to outer bolts - like in the old days,....
I have no idea what the proper final tork reading is supposed to be for gen 3s... my heads have been on 3 years with no issues, however.... so 75lbs must be close!
I did this only after spraying the new bolts with silicone and realizing that they could not be marked with a felt tip pen whichis used in the standard procedure recomended by GM.....
I thought the long lenght of the head bolts was due in part to the fact that they are clamping alumuium and not iron....
....my suggestion on the broken bolt extraction would be to get professional help. Find someone who has helped people who have had this happen and who can give you good odds of success...
Did you hear about the guy who broke his crank bolt off inside the crankshaft. He got professional help and the bolt came out.
IF all else fails, I dont think a new block is the fix since you can;t pull the innerds from your motor and throw them in a new block without machining and expenct it to work great...
This is why you need professional help!
I just torked em to 40lbs, 50lbs, 60lbs 70lbs and finally 75lbs.....in a planned sequence from inner bolts to outer bolts - like in the old days,....
I have no idea what the proper final tork reading is supposed to be for gen 3s... my heads have been on 3 years with no issues, however.... so 75lbs must be close!
I did this only after spraying the new bolts with silicone and realizing that they could not be marked with a felt tip pen whichis used in the standard procedure recomended by GM.....
I thought the long lenght of the head bolts was due in part to the fact that they are clamping alumuium and not iron....
....my suggestion on the broken bolt extraction would be to get professional help. Find someone who has helped people who have had this happen and who can give you good odds of success...
Did you hear about the guy who broke his crank bolt off inside the crankshaft. He got professional help and the bolt came out.
IF all else fails, I dont think a new block is the fix since you can;t pull the innerds from your motor and throw them in a new block without machining and expenct it to work great...
This is why you need professional help!
08-22-2005, 04:18 PM
#36
Originally Posted by ExceSSive
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=369369
This is what I did to get my bolt out of the block
This is what I did to get my bolt out of the block
Rob
08-22-2005, 04:19 PM
#37
Originally Posted by robertbartsch
That blows. I did not use the standard procedure for tork-to-yield bolts for my heads....
I just torked em to 40lbs, 50lbs, 60lbs 70lbs and finally 75lbs.....in a planned sequence from inner bolts to outer bolts - like in the old days,....
I have no idea what the proper final tork reading is supposed to be for gen 3s... my heads have been on 3 years with no issues, however.... so 75lbs must be close!
I did this only after spraying the new bolts with silicone and realizing that they could not be marked with a felt tip pen whichis used in the standard procedure recomended by GM.....
I thought the long lenght of the head bolts was due in part to the fact that they are clamping alumuium and not iron....
....my suggestion on the broken bolt extraction would be to get professional help. Find someone who has helped people who have had this happen and who can give you good odds of success...
Did you hear about the guy who broke his crank bolt off inside the crankshaft. He got professional help and the bolt came out.
IF all else fails, I dont think a new block is the fix since you can;t pull the innerds from your motor and throw them in a new block without machining and expenct it to work great...
This is why you need professional help!
I just torked em to 40lbs, 50lbs, 60lbs 70lbs and finally 75lbs.....in a planned sequence from inner bolts to outer bolts - like in the old days,....
I have no idea what the proper final tork reading is supposed to be for gen 3s... my heads have been on 3 years with no issues, however.... so 75lbs must be close!
I did this only after spraying the new bolts with silicone and realizing that they could not be marked with a felt tip pen whichis used in the standard procedure recomended by GM.....
I thought the long lenght of the head bolts was due in part to the fact that they are clamping alumuium and not iron....
....my suggestion on the broken bolt extraction would be to get professional help. Find someone who has helped people who have had this happen and who can give you good odds of success...
Did you hear about the guy who broke his crank bolt off inside the crankshaft. He got professional help and the bolt came out.
IF all else fails, I dont think a new block is the fix since you can;t pull the innerds from your motor and throw them in a new block without machining and expenct it to work great...
This is why you need professional help!
08-22-2005, 04:28 PM
#39
Banned
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One of my friends from a local board JUST had this happen to him. He went to a local hardware store and bought a screw extractor. I think it was Ace. With the tool, you will want to turn it with a 1/4" socket on a 2" ext. with a small ratchet. You will have to first drill to flatten the top of the bolt then drill a hole down the center of the bolt. Then use the screw extractor to get a bite on it and twist it out. It took a bit of time, but the damned thing finally came out.
So, did you try and flatten the top of the bolt before drilling the hole? If not, you may want to see if that helps.
So, did you try and flatten the top of the bolt before drilling the hole? If not, you may want to see if that helps.
08-22-2005, 04:33 PM
#40
Originally Posted by robertbartsch
I think you have at least a 50% 50% shot.
Don't panic - just get professional help!
Don't panic - just get professional help!
looks like I am delaying my trip 