UnleashedBeast

iTrader: (2)

Tomorrow I finally get my cam installed, but two questions before I do and searching hasn't fully answered it.

1. JMX recommmends changing the oil after 100 miles. If this is true then I will put a cheap filter and oil in the engine instead of wasting my German Castrol and K&N Filter. I am changing cam, oil pump, timing chain, and valvetrain. Is the 100 miles a definite must do?

2. JMX recommends simply coating the cam with motor oil and not engine assembly lube. Whats the scoop and reasons for no assembly lube. The hydralic roller lifters make assemble lube not needed?

Thanks for any input the gurus can give me.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I have been wondering the same thing on the assembly lube, especially since I already have a bottle of Redline Assembly Lube. I did a search and a few of the supporting vendors build their engines with lube. The book by Will Handzel also recommends using assembly lube. From my searchs, the fear appears to be clogging the oil pump or something with the lube.

Wil Handzel also recommends doing a very thorough job of cleaning the new cam, inside and out.

conan

iTrader: (5)

The oil change after 100 miles is a verry good idea, the cam is seating it self in the cam bearings = metal wear. Also the new chain will have some wear too. Since your pulling you oil pan for the pump and wont be able to use the old oil, Putting cheap stuff in and running it would be fine. I laid my cam on a old towel and poured a 1/2 quart of oil on the cam and didn't have problems doing it that way (2 differant times). Also before you put the valve covers back on squart oil all over the rockes and valve springs so the first start up isn't dry.

1FASTBIRD

iTrader: (21)

You do what to clean the cam and using mobil or any other to lube the cam is good enough. But make sure you clean the cam and on runing the car a 100 mile's, you can do that but if you clean the cam real good I would recommand at 500 change the oil.When you are ready to start up the car let it run for a few min and drive it down the street at normal speed.Then park it and let cool down for half an hour then start it up and let it rip.That's how I did my F13 install and I also used LS1 HOW TO.Good luck on the cam swap.

smask04C5

iTrader: (1)

Assembly lube is fine for assembly, thorough cleaning of cam inside and out is most important. After cleaning, I blow cam completely dry, then coat bearing surfaces with assembly lube and install. Before I install lifter trays, I take a squirt can of oil and oil lobes well prior to lifter tray install. Also squirt the cam plate and torrington bearing prior to cover install.

blkZ28spt

No need for assembly lube. Just clean it with some brake cleaner and coat it nicely with oil. You CAN "reuse" the oil that is in the car. You don't actually drop the oil pan, just lower the front edge enough to reach in and all told you only lose a negligable amount of oil.

If you want to heat cycle the springs (not a bad idea but not really necessary) get it up to operating temperate nice and easy (maybe just idling) then let it cool for a good six hours. Letting it sit for 30 mins doesn't really do anything.

I changed my oil after running it up to operating temp a few times and driving it around once, then again a few hundred miles later. Lots of crap will get into the oil, both from new parts and you being inside the engine.

UnleashedBeast

iTrader: (2)

Thanks fellas for the replies. I have decided that I won't bother with assembly lube and only use clean motor oil. I will go ahead and use cheap stuff for the first 100 or so miles then change the oil and install the German Castrol and K&N oil filter.