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Guys with cams....what's your "start up" procedure?

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Old 08-29-2005, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MannyZ28
It doesn't die when I shift that early, it kinda surges and has no power until it knows what just happened....lol.

In general, my car, as it sits now, does not like driving around in 4th gear at 45 mph, I mean it cruises fine at that speed, but if you have your foot on the gas just lightly to maintain that speed, it's at the virge of a bucking bronco episode.

I am guessing 4.10 gears will cure that. I am still not sure about my tuning, I have never had a cammed car and I just don't know what to expect from drivability with a cam this size. Over all it drives very good, just not like stock....but eh, I am used to it by now.

Manny
You've got some serious tuning issues man. I drive my car in 6th gear at 45mpg. Granted that is with 4.10's but with stock gearing I could easily drive in 5th. I have a much bigger cam than you so you have problems. I can start my car and drive off withing 15seconds. However, I like to let it sit for about 1 minute and then just keep it under 2500. I usually shift closer 2,000 though. People who just get in and go with aftermarket valve springs are asking for some big problems. That's a no-no. You'll find that out when you are buying a new motor due to broken valve springs.
Old 08-29-2005, 04:33 PM
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If I have time, I let it sit till the fans come one, if not, I at least let it sit till the needle makes it to first line, and then keep it under 2500.

I just hate to take another day off to go down there and have them screw around with it some more....I mean, if all they do is have it dance around on the dyno, how can they determine how it acts at certain speeds under normal driving conditions.

Also, I noticed that sometimes, just after start up, I hear some chatter, but when I push the clutch in it disappears. After driving for just like a minute or so it disappears though, I wonder what that is?

I am extremely picky with my car, and I can hear every new sound and feel the slightest difference in the way it drives, so what seems normal to you migh make me nervous. I gotta try driving it at 45 in 5th, just to see what happens.

But I do wish I would have gone to RevXtreme to begin with, for one thing they are open saturdays, so I wouldn't have to take a day off all the time. They are also cheaper from what I can tell. I dunno, I kinda lost confidence in the place I am going to.
Old 08-29-2005, 04:36 PM
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Start car. Turn on radar detector, put on seat-belt, turn radio on, put car in gear and drive normal (2.5k max) until it warms up.

If it's winter and is exceptionally cold outside I might let it idle for 30-120 seconds.


People who wait for the temp gauge to move to first line before going anywhere are wasting gas and buillding up carbon deposits while sitting there.
Old 08-29-2005, 05:01 PM
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Start, wait 30 sec and drive. G5X3 on a 112 on an untuned A4 with no stall.... Hello bucking bronco waiting to die.
Old 08-29-2005, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt


People who wait for the temp gauge to move to first line before going anywhere are wasting gas and buillding up carbon deposits while sitting there.
Yes, that's what I am worried about too....I was wondering when someone would bring this up.

It's all about self control until the car is warm.
Old 08-29-2005, 05:22 PM
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I also just start her up and go. I just wait 10 minutes or so after the temp gauge reaches operating temperature, then I can rev to 6600. Gotta wait until the oil is up to operating temps. An oil temp gauge would be so useful...
Old 08-29-2005, 05:35 PM
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i pretty much start and go, but if i have time ill let it get to about 100 before leaving...on a cold start my car drives fine...starting it with the a/c on is a different story...the car takes a few seconds to find idle, but once it does its good...

Jon
Old 08-29-2005, 11:12 PM
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I did the start and go method tonight....drove just fine....but ugh....that 1700 rpm bronco buck has got to go.

When you do tuning for eliminating driveability issues like bucking, will that hurt your peak hp numbers? It really does suck, and it's really hard to drive smoothly knowing that at a certain rev range the car wants to buck which is amplified by having the torque arm that I have....which really amplifies clunking noises.
Old 08-29-2005, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MannyZ28
I did the start and go method tonight....drove just fine....but ugh....that 1700 rpm bronco buck has got to go.

When you do tuning for eliminating driveability issues like bucking, will that hurt your peak hp numbers? It really does suck, and it's really hard to drive smoothly knowing that at a certain rev range the car wants to buck which is amplified by having the torque arm that I have....which really amplifies clunking noises.
Tuning is REQUIRED with a cam swap. It will help your power output as well, possibly by a lot.
Old 08-29-2005, 11:31 PM
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Manny,

You live in southwest Florida, correct? And, it's August. It can't be cold down there.
Old 08-29-2005, 11:32 PM
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As was said, fine tune it again, it will be worth it. Mine searches for idle for like 20 sec, and i know it needs touched up a little on the tuning, other than that it drives perfect. I just need to take the time to do it.
Old 08-29-2005, 11:34 PM
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You only have a TR224? You shouldn't have bucking issues, that thing (properly tuned!) should drive virtually like stock.
Old 08-30-2005, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Krab
I also just start her up and go. I just wait 10 minutes or so after the temp gauge reaches operating temperature, then I can rev to 6600. Gotta wait until the oil is up to operating temps. An oil temp gauge would be so useful...
Yeah, I agree about how nice the oil temp gauge would be. I've found I can judge when the oil is good and hot just by looking at the oil pressure. It usually takes at least 10 min. before I consider it fully warmed up.
Old 08-30-2005, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Start car. Turn on radar detector, put on seat-belt, turn radio on, put car in gear and drive normal (2.5k max) until it warms up.

If it's winter and is exceptionally cold outside I might let it idle for 30-120 seconds.


People who wait for the temp gauge to move to first line before going anywhere are wasting gas and buillding up carbon deposits while sitting there.
I completely agree! My checklist is a little bit different however:

- Unlock T-Top
- Start the car
- Open trunk
- Remove driver panel and secure it into trunk
- Remove passenger panel and secure it into trunk
- Close trunk
- Sit in car
- Buckle seatbelt
- Engage 1st
- Drive and enjoy (2.5k max until fully warmed)

224 cam (tuned by Ed Wright), 800rpm idle, no surging, no stalling, 3.73's, drives like stocker!

Everything is in the tune!
Old 08-30-2005, 10:42 AM
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start, release ebrake, let it slide back outa the parking spot, turn wheel a little, stop, put in gear and go.

No need to wait around. Oil circulates within a few seconds anyways...




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