Guys with cams....what's your "start up" procedure?
#21
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Originally Posted by MannyZ28
It doesn't die when I shift that early, it kinda surges and has no power until it knows what just happened....lol.
In general, my car, as it sits now, does not like driving around in 4th gear at 45 mph, I mean it cruises fine at that speed, but if you have your foot on the gas just lightly to maintain that speed, it's at the virge of a bucking bronco episode.
I am guessing 4.10 gears will cure that. I am still not sure about my tuning, I have never had a cammed car and I just don't know what to expect from drivability with a cam this size. Over all it drives very good, just not like stock....but eh, I am used to it by now.
Manny
In general, my car, as it sits now, does not like driving around in 4th gear at 45 mph, I mean it cruises fine at that speed, but if you have your foot on the gas just lightly to maintain that speed, it's at the virge of a bucking bronco episode.
I am guessing 4.10 gears will cure that. I am still not sure about my tuning, I have never had a cammed car and I just don't know what to expect from drivability with a cam this size. Over all it drives very good, just not like stock....but eh, I am used to it by now.
Manny
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If I have time, I let it sit till the fans come one, if not, I at least let it sit till the needle makes it to first line, and then keep it under 2500.
I just hate to take another day off to go down there and have them screw around with it some more....I mean, if all they do is have it dance around on the dyno, how can they determine how it acts at certain speeds under normal driving conditions.
Also, I noticed that sometimes, just after start up, I hear some chatter, but when I push the clutch in it disappears. After driving for just like a minute or so it disappears though, I wonder what that is?
I am extremely picky with my car, and I can hear every new sound and feel the slightest difference in the way it drives, so what seems normal to you migh make me nervous. I gotta try driving it at 45 in 5th, just to see what happens.
But I do wish I would have gone to RevXtreme to begin with, for one thing they are open saturdays, so I wouldn't have to take a day off all the time. They are also cheaper from what I can tell. I dunno, I kinda lost confidence in the place I am going to.
I just hate to take another day off to go down there and have them screw around with it some more....I mean, if all they do is have it dance around on the dyno, how can they determine how it acts at certain speeds under normal driving conditions.
Also, I noticed that sometimes, just after start up, I hear some chatter, but when I push the clutch in it disappears. After driving for just like a minute or so it disappears though, I wonder what that is?
I am extremely picky with my car, and I can hear every new sound and feel the slightest difference in the way it drives, so what seems normal to you migh make me nervous. I gotta try driving it at 45 in 5th, just to see what happens.
But I do wish I would have gone to RevXtreme to begin with, for one thing they are open saturdays, so I wouldn't have to take a day off all the time. They are also cheaper from what I can tell. I dunno, I kinda lost confidence in the place I am going to.
#23
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Start car. Turn on radar detector, put on seat-belt, turn radio on, put car in gear and drive normal (2.5k max) until it warms up.
If it's winter and is exceptionally cold outside I might let it idle for 30-120 seconds.
People who wait for the temp gauge to move to first line before going anywhere are wasting gas and buillding up carbon deposits while sitting there.
If it's winter and is exceptionally cold outside I might let it idle for 30-120 seconds.
People who wait for the temp gauge to move to first line before going anywhere are wasting gas and buillding up carbon deposits while sitting there.
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
People who wait for the temp gauge to move to first line before going anywhere are wasting gas and buillding up carbon deposits while sitting there.
It's all about self control until the car is warm.
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I also just start her up and go. I just wait 10 minutes or so after the temp gauge reaches operating temperature, then I can rev to 6600. Gotta wait until the oil is up to operating temps. An oil temp gauge would be so useful...
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i pretty much start and go, but if i have time ill let it get to about 100 before leaving...on a cold start my car drives fine...starting it with the a/c on is a different story...the car takes a few seconds to find idle, but once it does its good...
Jon
Jon
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I did the start and go method tonight....drove just fine....but ugh....that 1700 rpm bronco buck has got to go.
When you do tuning for eliminating driveability issues like bucking, will that hurt your peak hp numbers? It really does suck, and it's really hard to drive smoothly knowing that at a certain rev range the car wants to buck which is amplified by having the torque arm that I have....which really amplifies clunking noises.
When you do tuning for eliminating driveability issues like bucking, will that hurt your peak hp numbers? It really does suck, and it's really hard to drive smoothly knowing that at a certain rev range the car wants to buck which is amplified by having the torque arm that I have....which really amplifies clunking noises.
#29
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Originally Posted by MannyZ28
I did the start and go method tonight....drove just fine....but ugh....that 1700 rpm bronco buck has got to go.
When you do tuning for eliminating driveability issues like bucking, will that hurt your peak hp numbers? It really does suck, and it's really hard to drive smoothly knowing that at a certain rev range the car wants to buck which is amplified by having the torque arm that I have....which really amplifies clunking noises.
When you do tuning for eliminating driveability issues like bucking, will that hurt your peak hp numbers? It really does suck, and it's really hard to drive smoothly knowing that at a certain rev range the car wants to buck which is amplified by having the torque arm that I have....which really amplifies clunking noises.
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As was said, fine tune it again, it will be worth it. Mine searches for idle for like 20 sec, and i know it needs touched up a little on the tuning, other than that it drives perfect. I just need to take the time to do it.
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Originally Posted by Krab
I also just start her up and go. I just wait 10 minutes or so after the temp gauge reaches operating temperature, then I can rev to 6600. Gotta wait until the oil is up to operating temps. An oil temp gauge would be so useful...
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Start car. Turn on radar detector, put on seat-belt, turn radio on, put car in gear and drive normal (2.5k max) until it warms up.
If it's winter and is exceptionally cold outside I might let it idle for 30-120 seconds.
People who wait for the temp gauge to move to first line before going anywhere are wasting gas and buillding up carbon deposits while sitting there.
If it's winter and is exceptionally cold outside I might let it idle for 30-120 seconds.
People who wait for the temp gauge to move to first line before going anywhere are wasting gas and buillding up carbon deposits while sitting there.
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- Unlock T-Top
- Start the car
- Open trunk
- Remove driver panel and secure it into trunk
- Remove passenger panel and secure it into trunk
- Close trunk
- Sit in car
- Buckle seatbelt
- Engage 1st
- Drive and enjoy (2.5k max until fully warmed)
224 cam (tuned by Ed Wright), 800rpm idle, no surging, no stalling, 3.73's, drives like stocker!
Everything is in the tune!
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start, release ebrake, let it slide back outa the parking spot, turn wheel a little, stop, put in gear and go.
No need to wait around. Oil circulates within a few seconds anyways...
No need to wait around. Oil circulates within a few seconds anyways...