tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap
09-12-2005, 11:14 AM
#61
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1) tear down to expose the valve train by removing coil packs/valve covers. All electronic connections and hoses can be un plugged and moved out of the way.
2) giggle, or better, "rock" each rocker arm. There is minimal play in each, mainly side-to-side, rocking them should be very stiff though. The one(s) that rattle(s) the most will be a "problem spot."
3) just to ensure the others are cheked, "Fake-start" the car by just twisting the key on/off in a fast motion DO NOT START THE CAR!!!!! you just want to get that first "pop" of the engine then kill it. This will move all the valves a bit without sending oil through the whole engine. Repeat step 2.
4) remove the "problem-spot" rocker and rod. Wipe off the rod and roll it on a piece of glass or other perfectly flat service. If the rod oscilated while rolling-you're in luck, buy a new 7.400 inch rod.
5)If it rolled smoothly, put it back in and do a "rocker-or-lifter" test by putting a "non-problem spot" rocker in place of the "problem-spot" rocker. If the "non-problem" rocker shifts wildly, then you know you have to dig further and replace the lifter. If it doesn't shift wildly, then the original rocker from that spot is broken.
6) To get to the lifter: remove the air intake/manifold cover. BE WEARY OF THE DELICATE "OIL-PRESSURE SENDING UNIT" JUST TO THE BACK-RIGHT OF THE MANIFOLD!!! Also, there are a few electrical connections and hoses back there. I believe there are 10 screws on the top of the manifold-you can unbolt/remove the front 6, the back 4 are too-long to remove, just unscrew them and leave them there. After all hoses and electricals are out of the way-we left the gas line connected, it wasn't a big problem-lift up on the manifold and begin to pull it forward SLOWLY. Inspect any snags that stop you so that you don't rip anything out. Be careful-that's all i can say, and take a breather if you get frustrated.
7) remove the smog pump, the valve train, oil dip [unbolt from manifold then yank it really hard] the exhaust manifold, and header. For ease, remove the bottom header bolts first-some are long, some are short, make a diagram of which went where.
8) Inspect the lifter(s) from the "problem spot(s)." In a side-by-side comparison a broken lifter will pour oil out and have a deeped indentation where the push-rod seats.
Good luck, this is a very exhausting/frustrating process that can be done with a lot of patience. DON'T FORGET: you will need to replace the header bolts and the head-gasket with new. New bolts are to be torqued to 22 ft-pounds.
2) giggle, or better, "rock" each rocker arm. There is minimal play in each, mainly side-to-side, rocking them should be very stiff though. The one(s) that rattle(s) the most will be a "problem spot."
3) just to ensure the others are cheked, "Fake-start" the car by just twisting the key on/off in a fast motion DO NOT START THE CAR!!!!! you just want to get that first "pop" of the engine then kill it. This will move all the valves a bit without sending oil through the whole engine. Repeat step 2.
4) remove the "problem-spot" rocker and rod. Wipe off the rod and roll it on a piece of glass or other perfectly flat service. If the rod oscilated while rolling-you're in luck, buy a new 7.400 inch rod.
5)If it rolled smoothly, put it back in and do a "rocker-or-lifter" test by putting a "non-problem spot" rocker in place of the "problem-spot" rocker. If the "non-problem" rocker shifts wildly, then you know you have to dig further and replace the lifter. If it doesn't shift wildly, then the original rocker from that spot is broken.
6) To get to the lifter: remove the air intake/manifold cover. BE WEARY OF THE DELICATE "OIL-PRESSURE SENDING UNIT" JUST TO THE BACK-RIGHT OF THE MANIFOLD!!! Also, there are a few electrical connections and hoses back there. I believe there are 10 screws on the top of the manifold-you can unbolt/remove the front 6, the back 4 are too-long to remove, just unscrew them and leave them there. After all hoses and electricals are out of the way-we left the gas line connected, it wasn't a big problem-lift up on the manifold and begin to pull it forward SLOWLY. Inspect any snags that stop you so that you don't rip anything out. Be careful-that's all i can say, and take a breather if you get frustrated.
7) remove the smog pump, the valve train, oil dip [unbolt from manifold then yank it really hard] the exhaust manifold, and header. For ease, remove the bottom header bolts first-some are long, some are short, make a diagram of which went where.
8) Inspect the lifter(s) from the "problem spot(s)." In a side-by-side comparison a broken lifter will pour oil out and have a deeped indentation where the push-rod seats.
Good luck, this is a very exhausting/frustrating process that can be done with a lot of patience. DON'T FORGET: you will need to replace the header bolts and the head-gasket with new. New bolts are to be torqued to 22 ft-pounds.
09-12-2005, 05:38 PM
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Thanks for the instructions but I'm not going that far and hopefully won't need to once i check the drivers side pushrods(everything on the passenger side seems fine)
09-12-2005, 06:08 PM
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Thanks for the instructions but I'm not going that far and hopefully won't need to once i check the drivers side pushrods(everything on the passenger side seems fine)
09-13-2005, 02:59 PM
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FOR ALL THOSE WHO ASKED!!!!!!!!
my rev limter is set to 6400...i asked the shop who is inspecting it to let me know, they plugged in a computer and told me it was 6400.
it's a performance shop that specialized in Ls1/LT1 cars. They said that my popped lifter is something that i didnt do, but finished. They said in their days they've taken stock LS1's to 7300 and not killed anything. So basically-someone done fucked up my motor befor i got to finish it off....
my rev limter is set to 6400...i asked the shop who is inspecting it to let me know, they plugged in a computer and told me it was 6400.
it's a performance shop that specialized in Ls1/LT1 cars. They said that my popped lifter is something that i didnt do, but finished. They said in their days they've taken stock LS1's to 7300 and not killed anything. So basically-someone done fucked up my motor befor i got to finish it off....
09-22-2005, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dipherentdesign
FOR ALL THOSE WHO ASKED!!!!!!!!
my rev limter is set to 6400...i asked the shop who is inspecting it to let me know, they plugged in a computer and told me it was 6400.
it's a performance shop that specialized in Ls1/LT1 cars. They said that my popped lifter is something that i didnt do, but finished. They said in their days they've taken stock LS1's to 7300 and not killed anything. So basically-someone done fucked up my motor befor i got to finish it off....
my rev limter is set to 6400...i asked the shop who is inspecting it to let me know, they plugged in a computer and told me it was 6400.
it's a performance shop that specialized in Ls1/LT1 cars. They said that my popped lifter is something that i didnt do, but finished. They said in their days they've taken stock LS1's to 7300 and not killed anything. So basically-someone done fucked up my motor befor i got to finish it off....
7300? They either lied to you or didn't metion that they needed all new high performance valvetrain parts and i can tell you that it was most likely NOT the stock bottom end. In stock form the LS1 can be taken to 6400 max (stock pushrods springs) but at that point you will more than likely experience float....
09-22-2005, 04:41 PM
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Wrong, stock push rods can handle 7K RPM, maybe not to often but they can.
Originally Posted by jaredm
dude, the rev limiter is set to 6k because the pushrods can't support any more than that. I'd check them first, a new set of chrome moly's aren't that expensive and pretty easy to do. If that doesn't do it lifters and springs next. still not too expensive, but a little more time consuming. good luck, and remember limits to engine capacity are set for a reason. It's ok to change things but do some homework first, there a several great LS1 books out there with lots of info so you won't have to worry about doing this again!
09-22-2005, 05:11 PM
#67
Originally Posted by dipherentdesign
1) tear down to expose the valve train by removing coil packs/valve covers. All electronic connections and hoses can be un plugged and moved out of the way.
2) giggle, or better, "rock" each rocker arm. There is minimal play in each, mainly side-to-side, rocking them should be very stiff though. The one(s) that rattle(s) the most will be a "problem spot."
3) just to ensure the others are cheked, "Fake-start" the car by just twisting the key on/off in a fast motion DO NOT START THE CAR!!!!! you just want to get that first "pop" of the engine then kill it. This will move all the valves a bit without sending oil through the whole engine. Repeat step 2.
4) remove the "problem-spot" rocker and rod. Wipe off the rod and roll it on a piece of glass or other perfectly flat service. If the rod oscilated while rolling-you're in luck, buy a new 7.400 inch rod.
5)If it rolled smoothly, put it back in and do a "rocker-or-lifter" test by putting a "non-problem spot" rocker in place of the "problem-spot" rocker. If the "non-problem" rocker shifts wildly, then you know you have to dig further and replace the lifter. If it doesn't shift wildly, then the original rocker from that spot is broken.
6) To get to the lifter: remove the air intake/manifold cover. BE WEARY OF THE DELICATE "OIL-PRESSURE SENDING UNIT" JUST TO THE BACK-RIGHT OF THE MANIFOLD!!! Also, there are a few electrical connections and hoses back there. I believe there are 10 screws on the top of the manifold-you can unbolt/remove the front 6, the back 4 are too-long to remove, just unscrew them and leave them there. After all hoses and electricals are out of the way-we left the gas line connected, it wasn't a big problem-lift up on the manifold and begin to pull it forward SLOWLY. Inspect any snags that stop you so that you don't rip anything out. Be careful-that's all i can say, and take a breather if you get frustrated.
7) remove the smog pump, the valve train, oil dip [unbolt from manifold then yank it really hard] the exhaust manifold, and header. For ease, remove the bottom header bolts first-some are long, some are short, make a diagram of which went where.
8) Inspect the lifter(s) from the "problem spot(s)." In a side-by-side comparison a broken lifter will pour oil out and have a deeped indentation where the push-rod seats.
Good luck, this is a very exhausting/frustrating process that can be done with a lot of patience. DON'T FORGET: you will need to replace the header bolts and the head-gasket with new. New bolts are to be torqued to 22 ft-pounds.
2) giggle, or better, "rock" each rocker arm. There is minimal play in each, mainly side-to-side, rocking them should be very stiff though. The one(s) that rattle(s) the most will be a "problem spot."
3) just to ensure the others are cheked, "Fake-start" the car by just twisting the key on/off in a fast motion DO NOT START THE CAR!!!!! you just want to get that first "pop" of the engine then kill it. This will move all the valves a bit without sending oil through the whole engine. Repeat step 2.
4) remove the "problem-spot" rocker and rod. Wipe off the rod and roll it on a piece of glass or other perfectly flat service. If the rod oscilated while rolling-you're in luck, buy a new 7.400 inch rod.
5)If it rolled smoothly, put it back in and do a "rocker-or-lifter" test by putting a "non-problem spot" rocker in place of the "problem-spot" rocker. If the "non-problem" rocker shifts wildly, then you know you have to dig further and replace the lifter. If it doesn't shift wildly, then the original rocker from that spot is broken.
6) To get to the lifter: remove the air intake/manifold cover. BE WEARY OF THE DELICATE "OIL-PRESSURE SENDING UNIT" JUST TO THE BACK-RIGHT OF THE MANIFOLD!!! Also, there are a few electrical connections and hoses back there. I believe there are 10 screws on the top of the manifold-you can unbolt/remove the front 6, the back 4 are too-long to remove, just unscrew them and leave them there. After all hoses and electricals are out of the way-we left the gas line connected, it wasn't a big problem-lift up on the manifold and begin to pull it forward SLOWLY. Inspect any snags that stop you so that you don't rip anything out. Be careful-that's all i can say, and take a breather if you get frustrated.
7) remove the smog pump, the valve train, oil dip [unbolt from manifold then yank it really hard] the exhaust manifold, and header. For ease, remove the bottom header bolts first-some are long, some are short, make a diagram of which went where.
8) Inspect the lifter(s) from the "problem spot(s)." In a side-by-side comparison a broken lifter will pour oil out and have a deeped indentation where the push-rod seats.
Good luck, this is a very exhausting/frustrating process that can be done with a lot of patience. DON'T FORGET: you will need to replace the header bolts and the head-gasket with new. New bolts are to be torqued to 22 ft-pounds.
You would think that the most pain in the *** part would not be forgotten in a walk-through. 
09-23-2005, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 777
So you are saying you inspected the lifter without the heads off?
10-19-2005, 09:54 PM
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does it sound more like a high pitched tapping in the top side of the engine or is it a deep metal sound, the most likely cause is a collapsed lifter(s) or or a bent pushrod(s)
10-19-2005, 10:10 PM
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I am lost here, how can you inspect a LS1 lifter without pulling the head? 
I can understand the fact that one of them might not be pumped up but you have to pull the head to change it out. Have you changed it out yet?
I can understand the fact that one of them might not be pumped up but you have to pull the head to change it out. Have you changed it out yet?
10-31-2005, 01:43 PM
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holy ****! sorry to never post again... hope i'm not too late with these answers:
1: LT1 and LS1 part number for lifters are 100% identical
2: it was a very metallic "clack" sound coming from the top side of the engine-and i thought it was easy to locate the sound regardless of echos: passenger side, top of engine.
3: you can figure out if the lifter is messed up by following my procedure/ swaping a "good rocker" in a "bad spot" Don't trust me? then remove the head. yes, once the head is out you can clearly access the lifters but if you do the valve swap it could save you A LOT OF TIME!
1: LT1 and LS1 part number for lifters are 100% identical
2: it was a very metallic "clack" sound coming from the top side of the engine-and i thought it was easy to locate the sound regardless of echos: passenger side, top of engine.
3: you can figure out if the lifter is messed up by following my procedure/ swaping a "good rocker" in a "bad spot" Don't trust me? then remove the head. yes, once the head is out you can clearly access the lifters but if you do the valve swap it could save you A LOT OF TIME!
