I just bought a 1999 M6 camaro ss with 13000 miles after selling my 2001 with 78000. I used the search button and looked through many post but i wanna kno what you guys think about my situation. I already have most of the supporting mods such as subframe connectors, torq arm, etc. My car is a daily driver with a weekend visit to the track here and there. I have about 4000 to spend. im either looking into a d1sc procharger or a H/c setup. Either way i am purchasing full exhaist first. Gmmg with l/t etc. I drive sometimes 600 miles on the weekend to go back home from school. so i want somrthing very reliable and street able setup with around 425 rwhp. what direction should i go? i kno the procharger setup i could just put it on tune and go. where as the cam im thinking maybe a TA 224/224 112 lsa. but then i need an intake, ported tb, heads, springs, etc. to support the cam and all that adds up quick including installation. im just really stuck on which way to go with my situation. what do u guys think?

 

You don't yet have money to finish out either one, especially if you won't be doing the work yourself.

If you go with heads/cam remember you can get plenty of performance cam only, and go a little bigger than a 224.

You might want to go full bolt ons + cam and shoot for 400 rwhp.

 

in that case what cam should i go with full bolt ons not including heads.

 

If driveability and reliability are what you are looking for then i'd go with full bolt on's and a TR224 cam. It's small, but it'll make a lot of low end grunt, and some have gotten very close to 400 rwhp with it. Add some AFR 205 heads later on and you'll have a torque happy 420+rwhp machine.

 

ok so a cam and full bolt ons looks like it might be the way to go... so say i get a tr224 should i get a 112 lsa or a 114? also what other mods should i get....comp 918's, ls6 intake, ported tb, titanium retainers, hardened rods, tune, any other sugestions?

 

112 will have a slightly better midrange, 114 will peak slightly higher with a little less midrange punch.

 

I would take a look at futral motorsports cams they are a sponsor here. I would say the F10 could definitely be very streetable especially with an M6, hell you could prob go even bigger.

 

another vote for full bolt ons and cam , add the heads later

 

im just stuck on what cam to get now

 

1. Read the cam guide sticky
2. Search
3. Narrow your list of possible cams
4. Search again
5. Think about it for at least a few days
6. Then search again
You should literally spend HOURS searching and reading old threads, multiple times over multiple days in multiple forums. (internal engine, racing forums, dyno results and comparisons...)

If you are unsure between two cams from the same company call them and order the one they seem to suggest.

Look into a TR224, F13, TSP torquer, TSP 233/239, LG G5X2.......

 

the forced induction will definitely take more than 4k to do properly. But that's enough money to get your car pretty damn fast.

Do a headers, ls6 intake, pulley, and a cam swap. Then see if you want to spend more Good luck and welcome to the club!

 

^^^ This is good info. I was reading threads until my eyes bled before deciding on my cam.

 

Yea i have been reading tons of old threads. Thats how i came to where i am now. But like u said im really going to look into the F13, TSP torquer, TSP 233/239, LG G5X2

 

i dunno im really liking the results from the f13. it seems tame enough for what i need but enough power. WHAt else will i need to get with this slightly larger cam though. will 918's work or should i go double? also while i save up more money can i use the stock heads in the mean time? also how will the stock 3.42 hold up? should i throw some 3.73's in it or it wont really be necessary because of the torque a f-13 offers. should i get titanium retainers and hardened rods becuse this cam will push it close. from what ive learned searching for a while now stock rockers should be fine. also should i get a 112 since its an m6? thats what ive gathered is a 114 for this cam is more for a4 and 112 is more for m6.

 

what do you guys think about this for a timing chain

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-C...spagenameZWDVW

 

Heads and cam......

 

918's will work perfectly fine. Between 918's and duals there are reasons to go either way. 918's are lighter, have better harmonics and won't stress the stock lifters as much but duals have the chance of catching the valve should a spring break at low-moderate RPM. (springs often break at idle or low-moderate engine speed)

You will also want a newer (LS6 style) oil pump. You can swap timing chains while in there if you like. An LS2 chain should be adequate.

Absolutely. Stock heads will be fine and you should still be in the area of 400 rwhp with all the bolt ons.

The F13 isn't a small cam. It WILL prefer steeper gears. With an M6 you have a dillema in that cams like the gear for both daily driving manners and WOT performance BUT the rear end is weak. Don't expect any good ET's at the track or hard launches on the stock rear.

Absolutely. Most springs can be had in kits that include Ti retainers and sometimes hardened/properly sized spring seats. (usually the duals come with seats)


Correct.

Comes down to personal preference. On a given cam LSA is the prime factor in determining overlap. Lower LSA yields more overlap. More overlap yields a rougher idle (more lope) and is more succeptable to running/driving poorly. A good dyno tune by an experienced pro is a must for a truly daily drivable cam swap. For a little more lope go 112, for a more mild idle go 114. Not a huge difference between the two and the speed that idle is set at will effect it as much, if not more, than the LSA.


For more specific info on any of these things try searching, there is tons of info in the old posts with varying opinions. The more you read the more you will form an opinion on what you think is best for different decisions.

 

what about the flywheel....how will that hold up. also the clutch. i know it will probly just i cant do too many hard launches

 

you can get a used procharger for under $4000. find someone in your area that has HP tuners in the year of your car to do a safe tune untill you can get a good dyno tune with wideband.

install is pretty easy if you have basic skills with tools and know how to read the directions that come with the kit